I think Coprolite understands my reply.
Do you guys trust Fram Ultra oil filters?
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Originally Posted By: Coprolite
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I have an 07 F150 and have always used MC oil filters. But after doing a lot of reading and research on the FRAM Ultra I will be using one at my next OCI. But, unlike most around here, I will only be using it for (1) OCI!
Do you plan on running some EP and going for 15k on that OCI? Otherwise, just use a PureOne. It is more affordable. I don't understand people that complain about low Sulfur gas costing a little more but are content to overspend elsewhere. Personally, I tend to overspend to a small extent relatively consistently.
That's exactly what I use the Ultra for, now if AAP would just carry one (NOT an XG, but an Ultra) for the Cummins...
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I have an 07 F150 and have always used MC oil filters. But after doing a lot of reading and research on the FRAM Ultra I will be using one at my next OCI. But, unlike most around here, I will only be using it for (1) OCI!
Do you plan on running some EP and going for 15k on that OCI? Otherwise, just use a PureOne. It is more affordable. I don't understand people that complain about low Sulfur gas costing a little more but are content to overspend elsewhere. Personally, I tend to overspend to a small extent relatively consistently.
That's exactly what I use the Ultra for, now if AAP would just carry one (NOT an XG, but an Ultra) for the Cummins...
BOF has always stuck to the one oci, change filter and stick to the book thinking. If he goes to the Ultra, but sticks to his historical OCI(5-7k, right BOF?) it would be overspending. I just don't see him doing an extended OCI, but would applaud him if he did. Since he mentioned the Ultra, I added the extended part to make it worth his money. I didn't quite understand the reply, as I haven't seen any extended change planning in other posts.
I will sooner or later move over to a Fram Ultra, but I first need to figure out the sweet spot on the engine for an OCI. I also need to stick to warranty lengths, especially as the IOLM on the pickup has anecdotally proven to be aggressively long based upon some posts on this thread. Since I anticipate the truck telling me to change between 7-10k on each OCI, I feel comfortable with the P1 and will use it for the first 4 changes after the FF. No point to cover all that here, as I will start a thread once I get a little closer to dumping the FF.
On the low sulfur fuel front, I support making the environment healthier for myself and my offspring, even if I have to pay for it. If fuel price becomes an issue, I will get a more fuel efficient vehicle and enjoy my time with that one. I know that the refining business is cutthroat, so I am not overly concerned about getting soaked with the change in fuel formulation. While it may be controversial, I wouldn't mind paying more in fuel taxes as long as I knew that all the fuel tax was going towards vehicle and infrastructure spending. All that goes in a different thread although I'm not sure where it would go.
Apologies for the rambling. I will use an Ultra, assuming I can find a way to do it justice and get all the miles out of it. I'm just not sure my cars fit the Ultra profile right now...
I will sooner or later move over to a Fram Ultra, but I first need to figure out the sweet spot on the engine for an OCI. I also need to stick to warranty lengths, especially as the IOLM on the pickup has anecdotally proven to be aggressively long based upon some posts on this thread. Since I anticipate the truck telling me to change between 7-10k on each OCI, I feel comfortable with the P1 and will use it for the first 4 changes after the FF. No point to cover all that here, as I will start a thread once I get a little closer to dumping the FF.
On the low sulfur fuel front, I support making the environment healthier for myself and my offspring, even if I have to pay for it. If fuel price becomes an issue, I will get a more fuel efficient vehicle and enjoy my time with that one. I know that the refining business is cutthroat, so I am not overly concerned about getting soaked with the change in fuel formulation. While it may be controversial, I wouldn't mind paying more in fuel taxes as long as I knew that all the fuel tax was going towards vehicle and infrastructure spending. All that goes in a different thread although I'm not sure where it would go.
Apologies for the rambling. I will use an Ultra, assuming I can find a way to do it justice and get all the miles out of it. I'm just not sure my cars fit the Ultra profile right now...
yes
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept. It is highly efficient and worth the money. I have seen Delco's fail but never had a problem with a Fram. But who cuts their filter apart after an oil change. May have if I left it on as long as some people do to prove a point. Ultra's are value priced for a full synthetic filter. Purchase at Advance on line and get 20% off at about $8.00. for 15,000 miles, much less than a dollar/1000 miles.
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No! Just had a terrible experience with one. I have recently switched to the Fram Ultra XG2 from the Motorcraft fl-820s for my 3.0L Duratech. I have always ran a little over 5,000 Miles on Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20 in winter and Mobil 1 EP 5w-20 in the summer. This was the first non motorcraft filter the car has ever seen as far as I know (at least the last 50,000). The car had trouble starting after sitting for a few days I had to crank it about 10 times and then pump the gas to start which I have never had to do. The only time she ever had trouble starting was when I had a weak battery. So I decided at 4,900 miles to put it on the jack stands and change the oil as well as a general inspection. Much to my surprise when i removed the oil filter i could hear a grinding noise. After i got it off and mostly drained i picked it up and spun it in my hand. I could hear the filter spinning freely inside the housing. It even has about 2mm play up and down. I have not opened the filter as I have to wait out the weekend to contact Fram. I will be starting a new thread to explain in more detail and shed some light on the Fram warranty process. I will return to post a link.
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I put one on a 2009 Fit and the engine seemed to make a ping/rattle sound that was not present with the OE Honda filter (A02).
I put one on a 2012 Civic 1.8 and it was fine.
I think I'll go back to OE filters for the money.
I put one on a 2012 Civic 1.8 and it was fine.
I think I'll go back to OE filters for the money.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I don't get the fram hate. Has anyone actually had one fail on them.
It's not that a FRAM will fail and grenade your engine. The hate comes mostly from the fact that it's a mediocre filter sold for a premium price. There are better filters for less money.
Another factor is that FRAM is the only company who thought putting PTFE in an oil filter was a good idea. When that fell on its face, they thought putting a capsule of some mysterious glop in the filter and calling it "High Mileage" was another good idea. Wrong on both counts. It made them seem kind of "scam-y", like Slick 50.
I don't get the fram hate. Has anyone actually had one fail on them.
It's not that a FRAM will fail and grenade your engine. The hate comes mostly from the fact that it's a mediocre filter sold for a premium price. There are better filters for less money.
Another factor is that FRAM is the only company who thought putting PTFE in an oil filter was a good idea. When that fell on its face, they thought putting a capsule of some mysterious glop in the filter and calling it "High Mileage" was another good idea. Wrong on both counts. It made them seem kind of "scam-y", like Slick 50.
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
They do come from the same company as the OCOD, but maybe their expensive filters are better? I can't open up a box since they are sealed (unlike other brands. I wonder why!)
AAP's April oil change deal with Castrol Edge includes a Fram Ultra filter
Tommy,
I am the tech manager at FRAM. The Ultra filter is awesome, 99% efficiency tested to ISO 4549-12 test standards. There are comparable filters in the market, most are double the cost.
It has a steel pleated screen with two layers of synthetic glass media, the highest capacity in the industry, a silicone antidrain back valve. the box is sealed because some less than honest people put them in less expensive boxes to save money, that is why the box is sealed.
They do come from the same company as the OCOD, but maybe their expensive filters are better? I can't open up a box since they are sealed (unlike other brands. I wonder why!)
AAP's April oil change deal with Castrol Edge includes a Fram Ultra filter
Tommy,
I am the tech manager at FRAM. The Ultra filter is awesome, 99% efficiency tested to ISO 4549-12 test standards. There are comparable filters in the market, most are double the cost.
It has a steel pleated screen with two layers of synthetic glass media, the highest capacity in the industry, a silicone antidrain back valve. the box is sealed because some less than honest people put them in less expensive boxes to save money, that is why the box is sealed.
Originally Posted By: Markzip
But who cuts their filter apart after an oil change.
Uh... ME!! Again!
I seem to be saying that a lot in this thread. I cut open my filters very often- not necessarily EVERY oil change, but pretty close. Its one way I keep a running tab on which filters are performing well. I can spot things like filter media collapsing into a wad around the center tube and blocking the filter discharge so that pressure suddenly drops from ~60 PSI to ~20 (which is how I had a Fram fail years ago) and I can spot holes or tears forming in media after use. And it also gives me a chance to see if the filter is catching any obviously bad stuff- like visible metallic grains, gasket bits, plastic bits that might indicate a timing chain guide in the process of failing, etc.
But who cuts their filter apart after an oil change.
Uh... ME!! Again!
I seem to be saying that a lot in this thread. I cut open my filters very often- not necessarily EVERY oil change, but pretty close. Its one way I keep a running tab on which filters are performing well. I can spot things like filter media collapsing into a wad around the center tube and blocking the filter discharge so that pressure suddenly drops from ~60 PSI to ~20 (which is how I had a Fram fail years ago) and I can spot holes or tears forming in media after use. And it also gives me a chance to see if the filter is catching any obviously bad stuff- like visible metallic grains, gasket bits, plastic bits that might indicate a timing chain guide in the process of failing, etc.
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I don't get the fram hate. Has anyone actually had one fail on them.
It's not that a FRAM will fail and grenade your engine. The hate comes mostly from the fact that it's a mediocre filter sold for a premium price. There are better filters for less money.
Another factor is that FRAM is the only company who thought putting PTFE in an oil filter was a good idea. When that fell on its face, they thought putting a capsule of some mysterious glop in the filter and calling it "High Mileage" was another good idea. Wrong on both counts. It made them seem kind of "scam-y", like Slick 50.
Very well said. And yes, I know that Fram has VASTLY increased their QA/QC in recent years- I applaud that and the introduction of the Ultra which is really a top notch filter. But the stigma of the basic orange can's small media area and tendency to collapse or tear (at least in the past... fixed maybe?) has really harmed my perception of the company as a whole. I know there's a place in the market for a low-end minimal necessary function filter, but marketing would be better served by separating that line from the Fram name a little further!
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I don't get the fram hate. Has anyone actually had one fail on them.
It's not that a FRAM will fail and grenade your engine. The hate comes mostly from the fact that it's a mediocre filter sold for a premium price. There are better filters for less money.
Another factor is that FRAM is the only company who thought putting PTFE in an oil filter was a good idea. When that fell on its face, they thought putting a capsule of some mysterious glop in the filter and calling it "High Mileage" was another good idea. Wrong on both counts. It made them seem kind of "scam-y", like Slick 50.
Very well said. And yes, I know that Fram has VASTLY increased their QA/QC in recent years- I applaud that and the introduction of the Ultra which is really a top notch filter. But the stigma of the basic orange can's small media area and tendency to collapse or tear (at least in the past... fixed maybe?) has really harmed my perception of the company as a whole. I know there's a place in the market for a low-end minimal necessary function filter, but marketing would be better served by separating that line from the Fram name a little further!
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Markzip
But who cuts their filter apart after an oil change.
Uh... ME!! Again!
I seem to be saying that a lot in this thread. I cut open my filters very often- not necessarily EVERY oil change, but pretty close. Its one way I keep a running tab on which filters are performing well (media not collapsing into a wad and blocking the filter discharge- which is how I had a Fram fail years ago- and no holes or tears in media, etc.). And it also gives me a chance to see if the filter is catching any obviously bad stuff- like visible metallic grains, gasket bits, plastic bits that might indicate a timing chain guide in the process of failing, etc.
I have (2) used MC FL-400s sitting on the shelf. I feel I am letting the members down here by not have cutting them open yet.
Originally Posted By: Markzip
But who cuts their filter apart after an oil change.
Uh... ME!! Again!
I seem to be saying that a lot in this thread. I cut open my filters very often- not necessarily EVERY oil change, but pretty close. Its one way I keep a running tab on which filters are performing well (media not collapsing into a wad and blocking the filter discharge- which is how I had a Fram fail years ago- and no holes or tears in media, etc.). And it also gives me a chance to see if the filter is catching any obviously bad stuff- like visible metallic grains, gasket bits, plastic bits that might indicate a timing chain guide in the process of failing, etc.
I have (2) used MC FL-400s sitting on the shelf. I feel I am letting the members down here by not have cutting them open yet.
If this users claims are true (and the video certainly suggests that they are) then Fram is on the chopping block once more.
Fram Ultra Oil Filter Failure Before 5,000 Miles
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2958258
Fram Ultra Oil Filter Failure Before 5,000 Miles
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2958258
is it a good filter? Seems to be on paper. Would I ever use one? Not a chance in hades. I will never use a Fram oil filter ever gain. Have seen Fram oil filters damage engines and lost a personal engine to one. I don't trust that company to make an oil filter - period. I will use Fram air filters, PCV, and fuel filters however. Just not their oil filters.
If I am going to spend $10+ for an oil filter I would rather spend $2-$5 extra for a K&N, Mobil 1, Bosch D+, Purolator Synthetic, or RP and get a quality filter I can trust. If I am only going to spend $5 +/- on a filter I would rather buy an OEM( MOPAR, AC, MTC, etc... )or something like a Purolator or Wix than buy a Fram OCOD.
I see no reason to use any Fram oil filter. Not basic and not premium. JMHO.
If I am going to spend $10+ for an oil filter I would rather spend $2-$5 extra for a K&N, Mobil 1, Bosch D+, Purolator Synthetic, or RP and get a quality filter I can trust. If I am only going to spend $5 +/- on a filter I would rather buy an OEM( MOPAR, AC, MTC, etc... )or something like a Purolator or Wix than buy a Fram OCOD.
I see no reason to use any Fram oil filter. Not basic and not premium. JMHO.
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I have (2) used MC FL-400s sitting on the shelf. I feel I am letting the members down here by not have cutting them open yet.
I have an FL-400S and now a FL-910 S that I plan to "cut and compare" soon as well. Just took the FL-910S off my son's Chrysler Saturday.
And for the OP yes I trust Fram's, I used more of them than probably all others combined over the years and never had a known problem. I can not say that about some other well known brands that I have used far less.
I have (2) used MC FL-400s sitting on the shelf. I feel I am letting the members down here by not have cutting them open yet.
I have an FL-400S and now a FL-910 S that I plan to "cut and compare" soon as well. Just took the FL-910S off my son's Chrysler Saturday.
And for the OP yes I trust Fram's, I used more of them than probably all others combined over the years and never had a known problem. I can not say that about some other well known brands that I have used far less.
Originally Posted By: Markzip
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept.
The Purolator Tech Dept doesn't even know what their own website says, which is:
"Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer."
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept.
The Purolator Tech Dept doesn't even know what their own website says, which is:
"Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer."
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx
Originally Posted By: Motorking
Tommy,
I am the tech manager at FRAM. The Ultra filter is awesome, 99% efficiency tested to ISO 4549-12 test standards. There are comparable filters in the market, most are double the cost.
It has a steel pleated screen with two layers of synthetic glass media, the highest capacity in the industry, a silicone antidrain back valve. the box is sealed because some less than honest people put them in less expensive boxes to save money, that is why the box is sealed.
Question for you.
Why there is no Ultra version of PH2849A (OD 3.0", H 4.9", Thread M20x1.5)
Second question: Why it is very hard to find XG3985 (OD 3.66", H 3.69", Thread M20x1.5) locally. WM, Pep Boys, Autozone and O'Reilly don't have it. Is it because not many engines use it ?
If these 2 Ultra filters are available locally I will buy it for my S2000.
Tommy,
I am the tech manager at FRAM. The Ultra filter is awesome, 99% efficiency tested to ISO 4549-12 test standards. There are comparable filters in the market, most are double the cost.
It has a steel pleated screen with two layers of synthetic glass media, the highest capacity in the industry, a silicone antidrain back valve. the box is sealed because some less than honest people put them in less expensive boxes to save money, that is why the box is sealed.
Question for you.
Why there is no Ultra version of PH2849A (OD 3.0", H 4.9", Thread M20x1.5)
Second question: Why it is very hard to find XG3985 (OD 3.66", H 3.69", Thread M20x1.5) locally. WM, Pep Boys, Autozone and O'Reilly don't have it. Is it because not many engines use it ?
If these 2 Ultra filters are available locally I will buy it for my S2000.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Motorking
Tommy,
I am the tech manager at FRAM. The Ultra filter is awesome, 99% efficiency tested to ISO 4549-12 test standards. There are comparable filters in the market, most are double the cost.
It has a steel pleated screen with two layers of synthetic glass media, the highest capacity in the industry, a silicone antidrain back valve. the box is sealed because some less than honest people put them in less expensive boxes to save money, that is why the box is sealed.
Question for you.
Why there is no Ultra version of PH2849A (OD 3.0", H 4.9", Thread M20x1.5)
Second question: Why it is very hard to find XG3985 (OD 3.66", H 3.69", Thread M20x1.5) locally. WM, Pep Boys, Autozone and O'Reilly don't have it. Is it because not many engines use it ?
If these 2 Ultra filters are available locally I will buy it for my S2000.
I think we should get this guy (Jay) his own FORUM on here. Anyone else think so?
Originally Posted By: Motorking
Tommy,
I am the tech manager at FRAM. The Ultra filter is awesome, 99% efficiency tested to ISO 4549-12 test standards. There are comparable filters in the market, most are double the cost.
It has a steel pleated screen with two layers of synthetic glass media, the highest capacity in the industry, a silicone antidrain back valve. the box is sealed because some less than honest people put them in less expensive boxes to save money, that is why the box is sealed.
Question for you.
Why there is no Ultra version of PH2849A (OD 3.0", H 4.9", Thread M20x1.5)
Second question: Why it is very hard to find XG3985 (OD 3.66", H 3.69", Thread M20x1.5) locally. WM, Pep Boys, Autozone and O'Reilly don't have it. Is it because not many engines use it ?
If these 2 Ultra filters are available locally I will buy it for my S2000.
I think we should get this guy (Jay) his own FORUM on here. Anyone else think so?
Perhaps the Purolator site needs it in bold, red and maybe even highlighted.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Markzip
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept.
The Purolator Tech Dept doesn't even know what their own website says, which is:
"Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer."
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Markzip
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept.
The Purolator Tech Dept doesn't even know what their own website says, which is:
"Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer."
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
Perhaps the Purolator site needs it in bold, red and maybe even highlighted.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Markzip
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept.
The Purolator Tech Dept doesn't even know what their own website says, which is:
"Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer."
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx
If you replace a P1 that often Purolator is going to make some major $$$! I sure am glad I don't use P1's; that would put me in the poor house!
Perhaps the Purolator site needs it in bold, red and maybe even highlighted.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Markzip
P-1 is rated for 3000 miles from Purolator's tech dept.
The Purolator Tech Dept doesn't even know what their own website says, which is:
"Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer."
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx
If you replace a P1 that often Purolator is going to make some major $$$! I sure am glad I don't use P1's; that would put me in the poor house!
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