Do you feel a synthetic oil has let you down?
- Thread starter Pete591
- Start date
- Status
"Do you feel a synthetic oil has let you down?"
After over 20 years with it?...negative!!!
After over 20 years with it?...negative!!!
20 yrs. with M1, no complaints other than the extra cost.
Oil is oil.
Originally Posted By: Pete591
Just wondering if you tried a synthetic oil and did not feel you were able to get your money's worth?
Most syn users run the syn at dino oil oil change intervals so most do not get their $$$ worth out of syn oil. Look at the posted UOAS.
Just wondering if you tried a synthetic oil and did not feel you were able to get your money's worth?
Most syn users run the syn at dino oil oil change intervals so most do not get their $$$ worth out of syn oil. Look at the posted UOAS.
Originally Posted By: Pete591
Just wondering if you tried a synthetic oil and did not feel you were able to get your money's worth?
Yes. In fact, none of them were worth my money because I change with conventional (PYB, Havoline, whatever's on sale) about every 7500 (OLM at 5-10% usually) and have never had any problems with those. A couple of OCIs with synthetics didn't make any noticeable difference in performance or economy. I'd have to go a lot more miles on synthetics to get the value out of them, but I'd rather check things out under the hood a couple times a year anyway. Imagine that! No MMO, no Sea Foam, no Regane, no AutoRX, no synthetics, and no problems! Unthinkable!
Just wondering if you tried a synthetic oil and did not feel you were able to get your money's worth?
Yes. In fact, none of them were worth my money because I change with conventional (PYB, Havoline, whatever's on sale) about every 7500 (OLM at 5-10% usually) and have never had any problems with those. A couple of OCIs with synthetics didn't make any noticeable difference in performance or economy. I'd have to go a lot more miles on synthetics to get the value out of them, but I'd rather check things out under the hood a couple times a year anyway. Imagine that! No MMO, no Sea Foam, no Regane, no AutoRX, no synthetics, and no problems! Unthinkable!
Yes,
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM (bought in Nov 01) with 2.2 Ecotec. For the first 2 oil changes (up to 9 k miles) I was using Chevron Supreme Synthetic, then switched to M1 5W-30 until about 50k miles. After 50k miles started using 10W-30 M1. Also tried one time each M1 EP 10W30 and M1 HM 5W30 around 80k miles because couldn't find 10w30 in 5 quart jugs at WM.
Car was never driven hard and rarely saw rpms higher than 3k. Driving style was also very mild with a good deal of highway miles and some mix of city driving.
Oil changes were performed every 5-7k miles in the first 50k as specified by OLM (sometimes even more frequently). After 50-55k miles i started going a bit longer since it was M1 synthetic and didn't want to change oil too often. Oil changes were performed every 7-10k miles (about 1.5 times the mileage indicated by OLM). During longer runs I would change oil filter in the middle of the run (about 5k).
EDIT:
All the sudden car started to use oil at about 50-60k miles. About a 1/2 every 2-3k miles. Other than that car has been maintained very well.
Long story short - open my oil filler hole last Dec, and lo and behold - sludge!!! I was really, really disappointed with M1. Decided to switch to something heavy, went with M1 0W40 for 5k miles, hoping it would clean some of the stuff out. Oil was very tar looking at 5k then I drained it. Now using M1HM 10W30 again to continue hopefully cleaning. It seems like sludge/varnish reduced quite a bit, but still nowhere near where I want it to be.
From now on I've decided to stay away from M1 (although I still think it's a good oil) and start using Pennzoil PU/PP, and Castrol Edge in my cars. I would recommend to my relatives to do the same.
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM (bought in Nov 01) with 2.2 Ecotec. For the first 2 oil changes (up to 9 k miles) I was using Chevron Supreme Synthetic, then switched to M1 5W-30 until about 50k miles. After 50k miles started using 10W-30 M1. Also tried one time each M1 EP 10W30 and M1 HM 5W30 around 80k miles because couldn't find 10w30 in 5 quart jugs at WM.
Car was never driven hard and rarely saw rpms higher than 3k. Driving style was also very mild with a good deal of highway miles and some mix of city driving.
Oil changes were performed every 5-7k miles in the first 50k as specified by OLM (sometimes even more frequently). After 50-55k miles i started going a bit longer since it was M1 synthetic and didn't want to change oil too often. Oil changes were performed every 7-10k miles (about 1.5 times the mileage indicated by OLM). During longer runs I would change oil filter in the middle of the run (about 5k).
EDIT:
All the sudden car started to use oil at about 50-60k miles. About a 1/2 every 2-3k miles. Other than that car has been maintained very well.
Long story short - open my oil filler hole last Dec, and lo and behold - sludge!!! I was really, really disappointed with M1. Decided to switch to something heavy, went with M1 0W40 for 5k miles, hoping it would clean some of the stuff out. Oil was very tar looking at 5k then I drained it. Now using M1HM 10W30 again to continue hopefully cleaning. It seems like sludge/varnish reduced quite a bit, but still nowhere near where I want it to be.
From now on I've decided to stay away from M1 (although I still think it's a good oil) and start using Pennzoil PU/PP, and Castrol Edge in my cars. I would recommend to my relatives to do the same.
Last edited:
Very pleased and the smoothness, with Mobil EP, is amazing. I used to go to Jiffy Lube. Now I wait for the $33 special and get a Mobil filter and Mobil EP for a lot less than what I was getting charged by Jiffy, and the quality of the oil and filter are better.
Originally Posted By: unixguru
Yes,
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM (bought in Nov 01) with 2.2 Ecotec. For the first 2 oil changes (up to 9 k miles) I was using Chevron Supreme Synthetic, then switched to M1 5W-30 until about 50k miles. After 50k miles started using 10W-30 M1. Also tried one time each M1 EP 10W30 and M1 HM 5W30 around 80k miles because couldn't find 10w30 in 5 quart jugs at WM.
Car was never driven hard and rarely saw rpms higher than 3k. Driving style was also very mild with a good deal of highway miles and some mix of city driving.
Oil changes were performed every 5-7k miles in the first 50k as specified by OLM (sometimes even more frequently). After 50-55k miles i started going a bit longer since it was M1 synthetic and didn't want to change oil too often. Oil changes were performed every 7-10k miles (about 1.5 times the mileage indicated by OLM). During longer runs I would change oil filter in the middle of the run (about 5k).
EDIT:
All the sudden car started to use oil at about 50-60k miles. About a 1/2 every 2-3k miles. Other than that car has been maintained very well.
Long story short - open my oil filler hole last Dec, and lo and behold - sludge!!! I was really, really disappointed with M1. Decided to switch to something heavy, went with M1 0W40 for 5k miles, hoping it would clean some of the stuff out. Oil was very tar looking at 5k then I drained it. Now using M1HM 10W30 again to continue hopefully cleaning. It seems like sludge/varnish reduced quite a bit, but still nowhere near where I want it to be.
From now on I've decided to stay away from M1 (although I still think it's a good oil) and start using Pennzoil PU/PP, and Castrol Edge in my cars. I would recommend to my relatives to do the same.
Are you sure you're not seeing the top of the valve cover baffle? Can you actually see down into the head at the valvetrain?
Yes,
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM (bought in Nov 01) with 2.2 Ecotec. For the first 2 oil changes (up to 9 k miles) I was using Chevron Supreme Synthetic, then switched to M1 5W-30 until about 50k miles. After 50k miles started using 10W-30 M1. Also tried one time each M1 EP 10W30 and M1 HM 5W30 around 80k miles because couldn't find 10w30 in 5 quart jugs at WM.
Car was never driven hard and rarely saw rpms higher than 3k. Driving style was also very mild with a good deal of highway miles and some mix of city driving.
Oil changes were performed every 5-7k miles in the first 50k as specified by OLM (sometimes even more frequently). After 50-55k miles i started going a bit longer since it was M1 synthetic and didn't want to change oil too often. Oil changes were performed every 7-10k miles (about 1.5 times the mileage indicated by OLM). During longer runs I would change oil filter in the middle of the run (about 5k).
EDIT:
All the sudden car started to use oil at about 50-60k miles. About a 1/2 every 2-3k miles. Other than that car has been maintained very well.
Long story short - open my oil filler hole last Dec, and lo and behold - sludge!!! I was really, really disappointed with M1. Decided to switch to something heavy, went with M1 0W40 for 5k miles, hoping it would clean some of the stuff out. Oil was very tar looking at 5k then I drained it. Now using M1HM 10W30 again to continue hopefully cleaning. It seems like sludge/varnish reduced quite a bit, but still nowhere near where I want it to be.
From now on I've decided to stay away from M1 (although I still think it's a good oil) and start using Pennzoil PU/PP, and Castrol Edge in my cars. I would recommend to my relatives to do the same.
Are you sure you're not seeing the top of the valve cover baffle? Can you actually see down into the head at the valvetrain?
I dont feel that it has let me down, I just feel that it is over-rated. I always thought it was and this just rienforces that idea. How many cars run 200,000 miles plus on conventional? Synthetics may have had the edge, in the 70s, but I believe that margin has disappeared. I ussually buy all my synthetics on clearances or with sales, so I ussually get it cheaper or about the same price as conventional. Wht not use it for that price. That is the only reason, I use it.
Not yet. It hasn't so far in the Honda or the Buick. We run them about 10-12k miles each. Both of us are putting on ~300-400 miles per week on the cars. It'll get cold enough here soon, so having better cold flow vs. a dino 5w-30 or 5w-20 is worthwhile. So it's worth the up-front cost to run syn oils since we're running them for long change intervals on mainly highway miles.
The once I ran dino 5w-20 in the Honda for 10k miles, it was not pretty come change time. And, based on what I've read here, 10k miles on a dino oil is almost inviting problems.
The once I ran dino 5w-20 in the Honda for 10k miles, it was not pretty come change time. And, based on what I've read here, 10k miles on a dino oil is almost inviting problems.
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Are you sure you're not seeing the top of the valve cover baffle? Can you actually see down into the head at the valvetrain?
Drew, in 2.2 Ecotec there isn't much you can see from the oil filler hole unlike in some other cars. But this problem only started around 90k miles. Discoloration was not heavy before, and about at 95 k there was enough varnish/sludge to remove with the screwdriver. I would have to say about 1-2mm of this stuff was covering. Problem is definitely not that serious as on other engines I've seen with the sludge. But that's still an issue.
Are you sure you're not seeing the top of the valve cover baffle? Can you actually see down into the head at the valvetrain?
Drew, in 2.2 Ecotec there isn't much you can see from the oil filler hole unlike in some other cars. But this problem only started around 90k miles. Discoloration was not heavy before, and about at 95 k there was enough varnish/sludge to remove with the screwdriver. I would have to say about 1-2mm of this stuff was covering. Problem is definitely not that serious as on other engines I've seen with the sludge. But that's still an issue.
I bet it's just crud building up on the baffling. It's a very common occurrence and not a problem. I bet if you were to remove the valve cover, the valvetrain and top of the head would be clean.
Don't feel let down by it. It was $8 more for the jug on rollback than the dino rollback. I didn't expect miracles going in, though - $8 can only do so much. Oil is holding up well and I will run it longer than I would dino in the same conditions. I'm also expecting the car to start easier and warm faster when the sub-zero temps come. It is worth the extra for that than dino, for the difference in price.
Come summer I will run either of them; I'll just run the syn longer than dino and still get the extra spent out of it.
-Spyder
Come summer I will run either of them; I'll just run the syn longer than dino and still get the extra spent out of it.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: unixguru
Yes,
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM (bought in Nov 01) with 2.2 Ecotec. For the first 2 oil changes (up to 9 k miles) I was using Chevron Supreme Synthetic, then switched to M1 5W-30 until about 50k miles. After 50k miles started using 10W-30 M1. Also tried one time each M1 EP 10W30 and M1 HM 5W30 around 80k miles because couldn't find 10w30 in 5 quart jugs at WM.
Car was never driven hard and rarely saw rpms higher than 3k. Driving style was also very mild with a good deal of highway miles and some mix of city driving.
Oil changes were performed every 5-7k miles in the first 50k as specified by OLM (sometimes even more frequently). After 50-55k miles i started going a bit longer since it was M1 synthetic and didn't want to change oil too often. Oil changes were performed every 7-10k miles (about 1.5 times the mileage indicated by OLM). During longer runs I would change oil filter in the middle of the run (about 5k).
EDIT:
All the sudden car started to use oil at about 50-60k miles. About a 1/2 every 2-3k miles. Other than that car has been maintained very well.
Long story short - open my oil filler hole last Dec, and lo and behold - sludge!!! I was really, really disappointed with M1. Decided to switch to something heavy, went with M1 0W40 for 5k miles, hoping it would clean some of the stuff out. Oil was very tar looking at 5k then I drained it. Now using M1HM 10W30 again to continue hopefully cleaning. It seems like sludge/varnish reduced quite a bit, but still nowhere near where I want it to be.
From now on I've decided to stay away from M1 (although I still think it's a good oil) and start using Pennzoil PU/PP, and Castrol Edge in my cars. I would recommend to my relatives to do the same.
Any car with any oil will sludge if the PCV valve stops working. Did you replace yours?
Yes,
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM (bought in Nov 01) with 2.2 Ecotec. For the first 2 oil changes (up to 9 k miles) I was using Chevron Supreme Synthetic, then switched to M1 5W-30 until about 50k miles. After 50k miles started using 10W-30 M1. Also tried one time each M1 EP 10W30 and M1 HM 5W30 around 80k miles because couldn't find 10w30 in 5 quart jugs at WM.
Car was never driven hard and rarely saw rpms higher than 3k. Driving style was also very mild with a good deal of highway miles and some mix of city driving.
Oil changes were performed every 5-7k miles in the first 50k as specified by OLM (sometimes even more frequently). After 50-55k miles i started going a bit longer since it was M1 synthetic and didn't want to change oil too often. Oil changes were performed every 7-10k miles (about 1.5 times the mileage indicated by OLM). During longer runs I would change oil filter in the middle of the run (about 5k).
EDIT:
All the sudden car started to use oil at about 50-60k miles. About a 1/2 every 2-3k miles. Other than that car has been maintained very well.
Long story short - open my oil filler hole last Dec, and lo and behold - sludge!!! I was really, really disappointed with M1. Decided to switch to something heavy, went with M1 0W40 for 5k miles, hoping it would clean some of the stuff out. Oil was very tar looking at 5k then I drained it. Now using M1HM 10W30 again to continue hopefully cleaning. It seems like sludge/varnish reduced quite a bit, but still nowhere near where I want it to be.
From now on I've decided to stay away from M1 (although I still think it's a good oil) and start using Pennzoil PU/PP, and Castrol Edge in my cars. I would recommend to my relatives to do the same.
Any car with any oil will sludge if the PCV valve stops working. Did you replace yours?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
This engine had an unknown oil change history before I bought it. I began running Mobil 1 in it after I picked it up (car was a 1987 Mustang GT). I've run 0w20, 5w30, 10w30, 0w40 and 5w50 in it.
This is a pic of it at 330,000Km:
The rest of the internals look this good.
Still had 38psi hot at idle for oil pressure. Original pump. Has seen a number of dragstrip runs and spent the last 50,000Km making 100HP more than it did stock.
This is a pic of it at 330,000Km:
The rest of the internals look this good.
Still had 38psi hot at idle for oil pressure. Original pump. Has seen a number of dragstrip runs and spent the last 50,000Km making 100HP more than it did stock.
- Status
