Do trunk lid lift supports commonly fail in cold weather, or are mine old?

OK I'll call the local dealer and see what their price is later on this week, if they are still open.
If you have the p/n (or just look it up), you can Google the "retail" price from Toyota. Most dealers will charge full retail or maybe sell them with a small discount.

Strongarm seems to be a quality aftermarket option. I think many auto parts stores rebrand them as their own too.
 
I've noticed the last month or so that when I raise the trunk lid on my Highlander, that in the morning, when it is around freezing, that the lid will lower itself back down again. When the weather is not cold, the lid stays up.

Is this a sign of failed lift supports? Or if I replace them, will the new ones act the same?
Perhaps both. I've used the ones from Stabilus as replacements and they've been fine
 
I don't know if they have them for your highlander, but brand "Maxpow" are loved in the Nissan Xterra world. I have them on my Xterra and they have lasted longer than the OEM ones did. They used to be 20 bucks a set on Amazon
 
Thanks, I went to their amazon page and to their own website, and they didn't have a filter for a particular car, so I sent off an email. I look at what they have, if they have anything for my highlander. The price certainly is right.

I don't know if they have them for your highlander, but brand "Maxpow" are loved in the Nissan Xterra world. I have them on my Xterra and they have lasted longer than the OEM ones did. They used to be 20 bucks a set on Amazon
 
I want to say worn struts work worse when colder temps, so I think I would say affirmative to the original question.

I like anything Sachs/Stabilus when available. I believe I used Monroe on my Lexus and they started to get weak very quickly, but they came with ball studs, which the Stabilus did not. And the ball studs are permanent to the Tokico OE. So next time, I'll get the Stabilus below. They would be OEM to BMW and I've used them on the BMW. So what if they lack the BMW logo? BMWs say Stabilus right on the struts (well some do)!

 
Interesting. Amazon says they do NOT fit my Highlander, although the actual product description clearly says they do.

Thanks for the link.

2001 - 2007 Highlander - from your signature. Verify fit for yourself if you decide to buy.


If I do decide to buy those, I'll make sure to contact maxpow directly and verify first. Probably just an amazon mistake, but would be good to make sure.
 
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OK RA has the following brands:
FCS
Tuff Support
Strongarm
AMS Automotive

I have never heard of any of these brands. Any that are better than the others? Price isn't an issue, ranging from $13 to $24

EDIT:
NAPA has its store brand lift support for $60 each.
AZ has Mighty Lift supports for $55 each.

I don't suppose these are worth the extra money?
I got some Strongarms for my 2000 Mustang and they are American made and really decent quality.
 
Thanks to all who gave recommendations. I went with the strongarm pair, on amazon. The pair was cheaper than a single OEM from my local dealer ($70 for each one), so I'll see how long these ones last.
 
Had a busy December, just put them on this morning.

I saw that after taking one of the old ones off, the second one was entirely unable to keep the trunk lid up on its own. But one of the new ones and that old one was enough to keep the lid up. And with both new ones on, the lid rose up more quickly then I remember it ever doing. The old ones were definitely on their way out.
 
My dad went through this on his Fairmont station wagon. Cheap as he was, he figured out that he only had to buy one strut, which would then be "just enough" to keep it open.

He did this once a year or so. I don't recall if it was always in the winter. Sometimes he cruised with a broom handle instead.

Look on rockauto for your new struts, prices vary widely.
Love this story. It supports the idea of "pay me now, or pay me later." At the same time it is a great "own vs. rent" story! the takeaway is that you gotta replace in pairs even if you are cheap. I have been, and will be again, in your dad's shoes many, many times.
 
To a degree, this is normal.

The gas charge in the piston is more dense at cold temps. Since the density has decreased, but volume of the cylinder has not, there's not as much pressure.
 
To a degree, this is normal.

The gas charge in the piston is more dense at cold temps. Since the density has decreased, but volume of the cylinder has not, there's not as much pressure.
Good old PV=nRT
When T goes down on one side, P drops on the other assuming everything else remains the same.
 
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