Do thinner oils (SAE xW-20, xW-30) do better at high RPMs?

Why not put your car year/make/model in your signature?

3 pages of blabber, and we still don't know what specific vehicle this is pertaining to.
Okay well this one is about a 2000 Subaru Outback. Not sure I want to be reminded of that in my sig though!
 
Dr. Hass is a Oral surgeon.

But, Dr. Haas is a Plastic surgeon, and he owned/owns a Ferrari Enzo in which he which he infamously ran 20 grade oil, where a much higher grade is called for. And we discussed this ad nauseam. Much of this happened during the rollout of 0W20 lubricants for passengers cars, and there was an ongoing thick/thin debate - and Dr. Haas' experiences certainly added some colour to the conversation. - Ken
 
Dr. Hass is a Oral surgeon.

But, Dr. Haas is a Plastic surgeon, and he owned/owns a Ferrari Enzo in which he which he infamously ran 20 grade oil, where a much higher grade is called for. And we discussed this ad nauseam. Much of this happened during the rollout of 0W20 lubricants for passengers cars, and there was an ongoing thick/thin debate - and Dr. Haas' experiences certainly added some colour to the conversation. - Ken
I know that. I read his article. Thick oil, thin oil,, I don't know for 100%.
I do wish that I hadn't mentioned his name at this point.
 
Only comment I will quickly make is that I'm not really sure how that whole thing is still up on the site, tbh.
 
My question then is how can going from 2.5 L to 2 L NOT yield higher RPM?
Only thing you are changing is the bore and stroke. The crankshaft will still be spinning @ the same rpm @ 75 mph( or any other speed) as it did before.

If you changed tire sizes or gearing then yes the rpm would be the same.

Chevrolet sold a bunch of trucks with 5.0L engines. The 5.7 was a better engine and is a direct bolt in.

Those that got the 5.7 swapped in are still doing the same rpm @ any given speed. They do reach peak torque @ a lower rpm due to having a larger displacement.
 
Okay, awesome.

My mechanic tells me I'm going to really enjoy the EJ20. Would you agree?

I was honestly thinking it was going to be revving higher because of smaller displacement. Never changed the type of engine before. Subaru yields a first.
You will likely need to rev higher to go places quickly due to torque, but top speed is gear ratio related. Without lower RPM torque, to get to speed quicker you need to rev up to a higher RPM and downshift more often, whereas on a higher torque motor you could cruise in higher gears without downshifting. You might need to downshift to 3rd or 4th to pass on the highway and go up to 4000rpm, when with 2.5L you could do the same move staying in 5th at only 3200rpm. But your maximum speed in all gears will be the same, 1st will stop at say, 25-30mph at 6500rpm redline, 5th cruising at 70 would still be 3000RPM, etc. (I don't know the numbers for your car.)

One thing I've heard about an EJ20 swap on Reddit is sometimes it doesn't quite work with all the electronic bits like o2 sensors, MAF, throttle position sensors, etc, etc. One guy I read about got an unwitting EJ20 swapped car that he only found out about after getting it, that was sold cheap because the prior owner could never get it running right. So I don't know what tricks are involved in that specific swap to make it work (some cars you do things like keep the entire intake manifold from your old car...) but it might be less direct than you might think, especially in USA where things need to stay OBD compliant and you likely can't use the Japanese ECU or a custom one, like you could on an older car that doesn't need to pass emissions anymore. Also manual cars tend to be better swap candidates in general, too, compared to automatics, as the ECU isn't controlling the shift points based on engine input.
 
.....

One thing I've heard about an EJ20 swap on Reddit is sometimes it doesn't quite work with all the electronic bits like o2 sensors, MAF, throttle position sensors, etc, etc. One guy I read about got an unwitting EJ20 swapped car that he only found out about after getting it, that was sold cheap because the prior owner could never get it running right. ....
JT20 is in denial. - Whomever he used to be in a previous life :)

It is absolutely NOT going to run right with out the JDM ECU or a reflash. Someone should be able to do this.
That Outback is going to be dog with a 2L and a 4EAT. It would probably tolerate a 5M but not that slushbox - solid though it is.
My 2011 is a 6M with a 2.5 and the low effective gearing in 1 and 2 get it moving surprisingly well for a 4 banger on a 2 ton vehicle with my lard bucket in the drivers seat.
 
JT20 is in denial. - Whomever he used to be in a previous life :)

It is absolutely NOT going to run right with out the JDM ECU or a reflash. Someone should be able to do this.
That Outback is going to be dog with a 2L and a 4EAT. It would probably tolerate a 5M but not that slushbox - solid though it is.
My 2011 is a 6M with a 2.5 and the low effective gearing in 1 and 2 get it moving surprisingly well for a 4 banger on a 2 ton vehicle with my lard bucket in the drivers seat.
Ya know, Mr. ArcoGraphite, I'm not disputing anything you say. What I SHOULD do is get another car, say hey Subaru it was nice while it lasted but now your engine is done for so I'm just going to move on, and get like a Maxima or something.

But where's the fun in that.

:)
 
Arco, I do agree with you a replacement EJ25 would be "the way to go" here. I wasn't ignoring you, buddy. It is a money thing

My mechanic actually told me not to get that cammed EJ25 for that same reason you say the JDM won't work: it "won't run right."
 
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