Just because they can adapt (and MAF is significantly better in that regard, I have no idea if those cars were MAF or MAP) doesn't mean the base table is correct and I'd be concerned about things like start-up enrichment and anything running out of base table.
Say for example it is MAP and calls for x amount of fuel at WOT so injector pulse-width is set to a value to achieve that in the table. You increase displacement by half a litre and power by 40HP, unless the injector sizing is different and just happens to perfectly match the same flow rate, you are either going to be either too rich or too lean relative to what's being expected. If it's MAF, its table will extend beyond stock values and so fuelling, provided the injector size is the same, should at least be close.
So, taking that the other way, if you've got an engine that's 2.5L and 40HP more and you swap in one that's smaller, I'd expect the base table to be overly rich if it is MAP based. MAF should be close.
Prior to the mid-2000's (~2010/2011), the owner's manual for all USDM Subaru's, n/a and turbo, had the same oil chart which was 5W-30 being preferred and even up to 10W-50 allowed in severe conditions. Currently, Subaru Japan allows 5W-30 in applications that spec 0W-20.Everyone says put 5W-30 in a Subaru engine.. even a JDM Subaru?
Okay well the thing is, I can get an EJ25 for $500 bucks but it's right at that age for a head gasket problem. 158k miles!That's true. It may run but may not be 100%. But I guess if you didn't change the oil on your 2.7 and sludged it up and blew it up, a not-optimal 3.3 or 3.5 will be an improvement.
These JDM EJ20 swaps are super popular. From what I understand you have to get rid of the engine at a certain age in Japan? I'm not sure it's cost effective any more and who knows what you'll end up with for an engine. With the amount of Subarus that get wrecked up where I am, seems like another EJ25 (whatever specific variant is in the car) wouldn't be too hard to find and swap in.
I'm wondering if my Catalytic Converter is going to be glowing hot orange every time I drive it.If you're buying a used engine , I'd just put it on a stand and do the head gaskets, valve adjustment, t-belt, rocker cover gaskets etc before going in. Would be a perfect opportunity to go through and get it up to par. Heck, I'd even do it on that "JDM" engine you're buying. The EJ20s don't have head gasket problems but they are going to need timing belt and rocker cover gaskets anyway.
The oil specified for my two stroke Yamaha RD400 transmission is 10W-30 motor oil. Heavier oil specified in a shared sump bike is more so for the engine protection than for the transmission.Car gearboxes use fluids that are on the thin side. 75w, 75w80, ATF etc. Most manual gearboxes run fluids that are similar to a Xw20 or Xw30 and even thinner if you compare data sheets.
With at least 24 qts.The higher the rpm, the wider the clearances need to be to account for torsional vibration, and thus a higher viscosity is needed. This also depends on the use of the engine though. A race engine will not care as much as a daily commuter trying to live for 300k miles. NHRA Pro Stock engines turn 10,500 rpm and use 0w-3/8 oil, for example, but the oil never exceeds 150°F in the entire run (except maybe when Erica is driving the thing casually around the pits). NASCAR cup engines run sustained 7000+ rpm for 500 miles straight with 280°F sump temps (~350°F bearing temps) and they use 0w-16/20, but the engine only has to last the one race or maybe 2 races at most.
And oil coolers ?With at least 24 qts.
And 30-35/36?psi pressure caps on cooling systemWith at least 24 qts.
I'm wondering if my Catalytic Converter is going to be glowing hot orange every time I drive it.
If it is, than any buildup or blockage will go away very quickly. It will also stink the first few times lol..
I beat the **** out of mine.Unless there's something causing it to severely overfuel - which may happen if the computer doesn't realize it has a 2.0l engine instead of a 2.5l engine, no. Mine has spent some time cruising at 3500, 4000 RPM with no problems with the cat. No rotten egg smell, hasn't glowed, etc.
You shouldn't have that much carbon in the intake unless it's got a severely malfunctioning EGR valve, is a diesel and driven ver lightly.
Unless there's something causing it to severely overfuel - which may happen if the computer doesn't realize it has a 2.0l engine instead of a 2.5l engine, no. Mine has spent some time cruising at 3500, 4000 RPM with no problems with the cat. No rotten egg smell, hasn't glowed, etc.
You shouldn't have that much carbon in the intake unless it's got a severely malfunctioning EGR valve, is a diesel and driven ver lightly.
Interesting thread. I’m interested to see how the jdm swap works out.
i would start with a 10-30. It’s probably a 5-30 motor if not a 5-20. A couple of factors.
1. There’s no chain to worry about. Chains add wear to oil and chains like to be hydrodynamic in oil, but that requires a few rpms to achieve.
2. Bottom ends tend to do better with heavier oils
3. Top ends tend to respond better with thinner oils
so where will the most stress be in this case? I’d wager the bottom end, especially considering it’s a smaller motor. and I’d be all over a decent synthetic... penzoil, castrol, as my top two.
my ‘22 called for 5-30. I ran 10k ocis even back in ‘00, and found 10-30 to absolutely hold up better in that engine than 5-30.
unless you regear the drivetrain, it’s going to turn the same rpm at cruise unless the automatics computer commands a lower gear.
I am inclined to agree. I think my (smaller) engine will be getting more of a full workout, every time it moves the car, and I always read a "smaller engine running slightly hotter" will be the most efficient. So I am on board to use full synthetic in it.Interesting thread. I’m interested to see how the jdm swap works out.
i would start with a 10-30. It’s probably a 5-30 motor if not a 5-20. A couple of factors.
1. There’s no chain to worry about. Chains add wear to oil and chains like to be hydrodynamic in oil, but that requires a few rpms to achieve.
2. Bottom ends tend to do better with heavier oils
3. Top ends tend to respond better with thinner oils
so where will the most stress be in this case? I’d wager the bottom end, especially considering it’s a smaller motor. and I’d be all over a decent synthetic... penzoil, castrol, as my top two.
my ‘22 called for 5-30. I ran 10k ocis even back in ‘00, and found 10-30 to absolutely hold up better in that engine than 5-30.
unless you regear the drivetrain, it’s going to turn the same rpm at cruise unless the automatics computer commands a lower gear.
What about if it's Redline 5W-30 which from what I read is thick and Group V synthetic and doesn't shear down, and is amazing that way? (Just asking)Higher RPMs also increase the shear rate, which increases the temporary shear (temporary lowering of the viscosity) of an oil.
For example if you have a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 with both the same HTHS = 3.0 cP @ 1,000,000 s⁻¹ shear rate but with the 5W-30 having a lot more viscosity-index improver (VII) than the 10W-30, the 5W-30 will run a lot thinner than the 10W-30 at higher RPMs where the shear rate increases beyond 1,000,000 s⁻¹ at which the HTHS is measured.
Red Line High-Performance 5W-30 has about 85% API Group IV PAO and about 15% API Group V POE. You don't want to have a mostly POE engine oil unless as in the case of Valvoline/Cummins Premium Blue Restore, which is used for a single OCI for the removal of carbon deposits.What about if it's Redline 5W-30 which from what I read is thick and Group V synthetic and doesn't shear down, and is amazing that way? (Just asking)