...do I want a 2020 Rogue? (Deceased leasee)

As others have said, let the executor of the estate deal with the lease and do not get involved. Nissan Finance will allow someone to transfer a lease to someone else, however the original party is still financially responsible if the "new party" does not pay. The estate would want no part of that as they would still be financially liable.

Additionally, many car leases treat a death as an "early termination" requiring the estate to pay the current value of the remaining payments as well as an early termination fees. Again, just let the estate deal with all of this and don't get involved.
 
The CVT will not fail within the lease period. HIGHLY UNLIKELY. And it's under warranty.
Typical BITOG "run away from a CVT".
I don't know about bitog as a whole. But with my money, i would not have one dime going toward a cvt unit.. Op asked for opinions, thats mine. I dont lease anyway. IF you can write off the lease, i can see that.

Spend your money how you wish.
 
I think if someone gave me a Rogue, I'd try to sell it.

Even if you wanted a Rogue, I don't see how taking over this lease would be better for you than just waking into Nissan and leasing a brand new one.
Go on Swapalease and check the lease prices there. The advantage of this lease is the low miles. Typically you only get 10k a year on a lease. With just 2k on the car, there's 28k left over 2 years. It's possible that there was some additional down payment also. Nissan lists it at $209 a month but you have 4k worth of down payments and the starting list price is 25k. This is a much better deal if you want it. You'd also have to pay a lot more for a 2 year lease vs a 3 year lease.
 
I don't know about bitog as a whole. But with my money, i would not have one dime going toward a cvt unit.. Op asked for opinions, thats mine. I dont lease anyway. IF you can write off the lease, i can see that.

Spend your money how you wish.

You are entitled to the "Crown Vic" mentality that some have on this board.
 
THIRTY GRAND for a Rogue??? :eek:
Optioned Up compact SUV (they are easily midsized in my book)
are over 30k from all Major Manufacturers

but they do not transact for that $$.

Except Maybe Toyota and Honda. Like squeezing blood form a stone with them :)

2021 Rogue


rogue2021.jpg
 
I too am with the don't do it crowd. My reasoning is different than most though. To me it just doesn't make good sense to spend out approximately $6K to drive something for 2 years when you could put that money toward a good used car and own it instead of ending up with a hand full of receipts at the end of the lease period.

I own a Nissan Versa with a CVT. It is currently at about 27K miles with no problems but I frequent lots of Nissan forums and issues with the JATCO CVT's is a real issue. I've read many instances of the CVT in Nissan's failing at well under 50K miles and sometimes under 10K. At the price I bought my Versa for I figured if I could manage to keep it on the road without any significant expenses to around 100K miles I'd be money ahead of buying anything else. The people who say there's nothing to worry about with a Nissan CVT need to explain to me why Nissan is still being forced to settle class action law suits if they are reliable. There was a class action suit settled last year that included the CVT in my Versa which increased the warranty from 5/60-7/84.
 
You'll be better off letting the executor probate the estate. It isn't as simple as just letting you take over the lease payments and take possession of the car. The probate court will want to know the status of the vehicle, as it's their job to make sure the person's debts are SETTLED prior to closing the estate. Having you take over payments doesn't settle the debt. They will likely require that the vehicle be returned to Nissan and disposal fees be paid. They may entertain having you apply for assumption of the lease, but is it worth all that?
 
Except Maybe Toyota and Honda. Like squeezing blood form a stone with them :)


That‘s an oft-perpetuated falsehood, frankly.

You just need to know how to shop.

I recently bought a new 2021 4Runner for my wife, and, with some shopping around, negotiated a deal for >17% off MSRP.
 
That‘s an oft-perpetuated falsehood, frankly.

You just need to know how to shop.

I recently bought a new 2021 4Runner for my wife, and, with some shopping around, negotiated a deal for >17% off MSRP.

I think it depends on the market. I can say pretty certain that with the handful of dealers we have in Utah-that discount would be impossible. While it may be knowing "how to shop"-will the local market "let you shop" your way. I can tell you here in Utah there is a $399.00 doc fee by all dealers. They know that every dealer charges it and you can't threaten to go else where.
 
I think it depends on the market. I can say pretty certain that with the handful of dealers we have in Utah-that discount would be impossible. While it may be knowing "how to shop"-will the local market "let you shop" your way. I can tell you here in Utah there is a $399.00 doc fee by all dealers. They know that every dealer charges it and you can't threaten to go else where.
The doc fee is actually irrelevant - they could call it the Purple People Eater Fee and it wouldn’t change the nature of what it is - part of the dealer’s profit.

One dealer could have a $999 doc fee and another dealer may charge $399, and the one with the higher published doc fee may end up selling the vehicle cheaper.

When shopping dealer’s asking prices, I ignored whatever they claimed their doc fee was, and, instead, focused on the bottom line.

I treated the process like a bid, emailing every dealership I could find that had the vehicle we were looking for, in stock, and created a spreadsheet to keep track of everything (this wasn’t my idea; I actually borrowed the idea from someone on T4R.org).

Local dealerships weren’t willing to come down much - couple thousand, maybe. But there were a couple of dealerships in the DFW area who did, so I booked a cheap flight, flew down with a check from my credit union, and drove it back.

But, yeah, you’re right - it’s all about supply & demand. You have to find the dealer that wants to sell it the worst! The ones around here weren’t willing to deal, so I found one that was.

Also didn’t hurt anything, I’m sure, that I bought at the end of December during the Toyotathon event. Also, I don’t think many people are looking for what we wanted (2WD, base model with no options except 3rd row seat).
 
That‘s an oft-perpetuated falsehood, frankly.

You just need to know how to shop.

I recently bought a new 2021 4Runner for my wife, and, with some shopping around, negotiated a deal for >17% off MSRP.
I think Toyota - like Chevy and Ford trucks - are 30% over priced since this market is still hot.

You see this with year end clearances with 7-10K off MSRP.

That was a good move getting the vehicle out of the area and bringing it back.

Looks like good Utility with that truck, - a traditional SUV and a nice big V6.

I bet your wife Love it!
 
I'd keep it, but I don't have the deep seated fear of Nissan's that all of the super knowledgably posters here do, or hatred of CVTs. And it is still under warranty.
 
Base Rogue is a hard no. My wife has a 17 Rogue SV FWD and the stereo is nothing special, there is no sunroof - not a biggie, but I prefer to drive my QX60 for the extra comfort & quiet.

To all those CVT haters, if the technology was so bad, why would Toyota, Honda, Subaru have switched over?
 
Supposedly CVTs are up to 30% less expensive to manufacture than a traditional automatic transmission. Automakers see that as a cost savings (and more profit per vehicle.) They don't necessarily care if it fails sooner than a traditional automatic transmission, as long as it makes it through the warranty period. Automakers also started using them to meet CAFE standards since CVTs were seen as more fuel efficient than traditional automatic transmissions.

Nissan is starting to transition back to traditional automatics. Both the 2022 Nissan Pathfinder and 2022 Infiniti QX60 will be dumping the CVT in favor of a traditional 9-speed automatic.

I have nothing against CVTs and don't think they are a liability if properly maintained. I have friends with CVT equipped vehicles that have never had any issues what-so-ever, so for most people they work just fine. Personally, I prefer the feel and familiarity of a traditional automatic.
 
If you need or want a car, that's cheap money to get into a nice "new" car and the Rogues are nice.
A typical new car loan for a compact suv would be around $500.00/ month. So this cost is comparable to a Base Mitsubishi Mirage junkbox for a new car loan money - about the cheapest thing you could buy.

My concern is that "Knocking around" doesn't sound like a NEED for a car plus you are in NYC. Where would yo garage it and at what cost?

Since it is a friend and NOT your family - I would PASS, but I would continue to market it to friends and family who may be looking for a car.

And CVT do not suck. That's Old myth. Mouthed and internet perpetuated by people from who haven't OWNED one.
The wife's Subaru CVT is awesome.

My Cable bill is 257.88 a month !
I loved the way the Altima CVT felt. Car would cruise all over the place at 1K rpm.
 
THIRTY GRAND for a Rogue??? :eek:

I don't recall the exact year or model of my FIL's leased Rogue, but it's either a 2019 or 20, SL touring with every available option. The sticker was like $38K. He's leased Rogues every ~3yrs since they came out in 2007. The latest models are comfortable and nice to drive, but not that nice.

If you do lease it and live in the rust belt, you will be doing rear pads and rotors well before 36K miles. The OEM tires are about shot then too, so take that into consideration.
 
I don't recall the exact year or model of my FIL's leased Rogue, but it's either a 2019 or 20, SL touring with every available option. The sticker was like $38K. He's leased Rogues every ~3yrs since they came out in 2007. The latest models are comfortable and nice to drive, but not that nice.

If you do lease it and live in the rust belt, you will be doing rear pads and rotors well before 36K miles. The OEM tires are about shot then too, so take that into consideration.
What a cash cow for Nissan! Good for them?

Caveat Emptor!
 
one advantage if you drive miles is since it has 2k miles on it but 1/3 of the time is done.. you have a bunch of extra free miles..

I wouldnt touch this deal though.
 
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