Do I need to run Auto-RX before using lubromoly?

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I was thinking about switching over to lubromoly synthetic motor oil or even Eneos motor oil in my '00 Nissan Frontier 4 cylinder with 173k on the clock. Do I need to run some Auto-RX for a flush or can I just switch over? The engine does not burn any oil, my main concern is that it switching to synthetic may cause gasksets to start leaking.
 
I would run an engine flush before hand, if you like lubro moly, use their engine flush.

Switching from dino to synthetic doesn't matter, but dino leaves way more deposits behind, and an engine flush would clean it out.
 
You can run a flush if you desire, but the only one I would trust is Amsoil.

While synthetic oil in and of itself will clean up the engine, Auto-Rx will do an even better job in some areas like the ring-pak.

In rare cases crud in a poorly maintained engine creates a "false seal" in front of the real seal, and the real seal dries out a bit. The synthetic oil or Auto-Rx will clean off the crud and oil will start hitting the real seal. In a short time the real real will be conditioned via the oil and will seal properly.

Also things like Auto-Rx condition the rubber seals while HM oil stretches them. Better to condition them in my opinion.
 
Chewbacca, I would not worry about flushing anything. I would however not do an extended drain on the first OCI. Pennzoil Ultra is good as well as M1 Synthetic. I would run a mix of M1 5w30 and M1 0w40. My Altima Engine loves it and the new SN M1 0w40 has a real nice amount of Boron in it. Either way use a good filter and change the oil at 5k for your first OCI to see how it looks. If it is charcoal black it is cleaning and run 1 more 5k. That would just be my approach.

Advance Auto has a deal on M1 this month along with a bosch distance Plus $29.99 after $5 rebate on the filter.
 
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I agree with Chubbs1, shorten OCI to 5-6k miles with first synthetic then go to normal OCI of 10-2k miles or 1 year whichever is first.
 
I would do a A Rx clean and rinse cycle first and the swap over to whatever synthetic you choose. The PP has a high amount of detergents and could be an alternative but IMO it is better to start with a clean engine. As stated before A Rx does a great job of cleaning ring packs and condition seals. Your engine is probably clean as it is but an added measure does no harm.
 
skip the rx. Big waste of time and money. If your engine has had regular oil changes and is not burning or leaking oil switch to m1 pp or pu. That will clean the motor just fine. Keep the oce about 5000 the first change and use a premium filter like purolater or wix.
 
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skip the rx. Big waste of time and money

+1 Thats been my experience after trying it in lots of different vehicles back when this was a cult product for many on BITOG.
 
Unless the motor has been severely neglected, you don't need it. Most OTS oils will keep a motor relatively clean as long as they were changed on some sort of reasonable schedule.
 
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