Are certain brands of oils or synths a better fit (do a better job) with certain brands/types of engines? Myth or reality??? I'm talking brands, not viscosity. We all want the best performance/protection possible from our oil. Just wondering if you guys have found good "matches" for your engines. I guess to really know this info it will require UOA.
Do certain brands of oils go better with certain engines?
- Thread starter Canyoncrew
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Patman
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It definitely seems like Toyota's like Mobil 1 oil. It's too bad not too many other engines seem to like Mobil 1.
I believe this to be true….and some data makes us lean this way…….but do we have hard scientfic data? Not really.
BTW I think most Toyota do well on most oils
BTW I think most Toyota do well on most oils
Hi Patman,
yes and Volga, Moskvich, Tatra and many Trabants have always gone well on Amsoil
It can be used to rust proof theses cars too!
Seriously, IMHO some engine families appear to perform better when the viscosity is optimised. As for Brands - I really don't know!!
Regards
Doug
yes and Volga, Moskvich, Tatra and many Trabants have always gone well on Amsoil
It can be used to rust proof theses cars too!
Seriously, IMHO some engine families appear to perform better when the viscosity is optimised. As for Brands - I really don't know!!
Regards
Doug
Why change your oil when you can change your car?
It would be more accurate to say that engines having good design and high quality metallurgy do fine with any lubricant.
Engines with marginal designs and/or subpar metallurgy (cheaper bearings,cast rather than forged crankshafts,no micropolishing of parts,sloppy tolerances, etc), require better lubricants to show low rates of wear. In this latter case the lubricant is a "bandaid" that is helping to mask design deficiencies.
Engines with marginal designs and/or subpar metallurgy (cheaper bearings,cast rather than forged crankshafts,no micropolishing of parts,sloppy tolerances, etc), require better lubricants to show low rates of wear. In this latter case the lubricant is a "bandaid" that is helping to mask design deficiencies.
Hi Pablo,
OK so it doesn't do such a good job as a rust preventor!
Regards
Doug
OK so it doesn't do such a good job as a rust preventor!
Regards
Doug
Agree 100%. Ulitimately, if one is concerned about keeping a vehicle for a long time, more time should be spent researching the engine type/make/manufacturer/materials then the proper oil. I bought my Toyota for one reason - to last. And it did with ZERO problems. Just a good engine, period.
This is a nice description of the issue. However, certain designs do impose particular loads on the lubricant that another design may not. By example, even a competent turbocharger design will typically place some thermal stresses on the lubricant. Chain driven camshafts can present a differing shear load than a belt driven arrangement. This can become a consideration in lubricant selection when an optimal match is sought.
But good engines tend to be good engines on any good oil.
Well use a good dino oil at 3000 mile intervals and the motor will last 325000 miles. Use amsoil or GC and the motor will last 325001 miles using 10000 mile drain intervals.
Valvoline Maxlife is good for all four cycle gasoline engines.
But hopefully not forsaking all others as I have big plans to start using my collection of GC this fall in my 05 Vibe.
I seem to remember reading that Ford 4.6L engines do not like GC. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
The 4.0 Jeep engine does not do well on Mobil-1.
Does fine on regular Dino though
Does fine on regular Dino though
My 4.0 Jeep engine is running well on Mobil 1 10w30 since the first oil change at ~2,500 miles and now has 196,000 on. How long it will last is unknown since my nephew has it. In addition: my Subaru 2.5L engine 92,000 miles is going great as did my Volvo and Saab turbo. The Volvo and Saab was sold with 176,000 and 145,000 miles and running well with no oil added between 5-6,000 mile oil changes. Since I bought all new and broke then in by not babying nor jam them I feel that using Mobil 1 was one reason for my very good service. ed
another consideration- some engine designs are more prone to sludging problems than others- these engines will stay cleaner if oils are chosen that have better detergency, combined with shorter OCIs. (Almost all synthetics clean better than dinos, but from my understanding, castrol GTX dino is considered to be a pretty good "cleaning" dino) Some folks with severe sluding, may have to resort to additional cleaning addatives.... but a switch to a diesel certified synthetic like delvac 1 can provide some solid cleaning. (diesel engines deal with heavier loads of soot and carbon buildup, the diesel spacific oils are better designed to deal with this.)
Had 300K+ miles on a 350 Chevy using nothing but 10w-40 Havoline dino for 16yrs - this was a hauling truck, towing heavy loads at moderate highway speeds through the flat-lands, hills and mountain tops in all ranges of temps.
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