DIY Drill bit sharpening

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JHZR2

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I assume that most folks just throw away drill bits when they get dull.

I dont have a grinding wheel, and probably dont use bits enough to justify the investment. Is there another DIY way to do this? Is there someplace that I can send them to for a nominal fee?

Thanks!
 
Agreed. It's an art, but once you get the hang of it, the large bits can be refreshed. The small ones are thrown away.
 
No, we do small too,there is a limit on how small a bit you can do(hard to see degree)but they can be done also sure.
 
Problem is that I dont have a bench grinder or access to one. And for the number of bits that I use/go through, its probably not worth it for me to buy one...

I do have a dremel...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Problem is that I dont have a bench grinder or access to one. And for the number of bits that I use/go through, its probably not worth it for me to buy one...

I do have a dremel...

Yea that would make it tough,for you i guess just buy new when dull since you don't use them often. But bigger bits can get pricy too..
 
I use my 10 dollar HF angle grinder and either a grinding wheel, or a cut off wheel.

It is not always easy to get the tip centered, and the bit will walk a little on a new surface, but I can get them super sharp.

I've gone head to head with a drill doctor, and My hand sharpened bits were making long steel pig tails where the drill doctored bits were making flakes at a slower rate.
 
For all the restoration you do, I would expect a bench grinder in your garage. Mine has a grinding stone on one side and a wire wheel on the other. The wire wheel comes in handy to remove corrosion and gunk on threaded fasteners and brake hardware. Make sure you get the fine wire wheel.
 
I have a drill doctor; got it for xmas. Don't really care for it.

I mostly go through 1/8" bits so I just found a cheap source of them by ten-pack.
 
Bits under 1/4" are difficult to sharpen by hand. You should also own a drill guage so you sharpen them evenly at the correct angle. If they are sharpened with the center off to one side it'll make the hole oversized.
I own a basic model drill doctor and like it quite a bit. It'll go down to 1/8" with no problems

These videos are the best I've seen for sharpening and use of drill bits.
 
FYI, drilling into metal, which is supposedly what the riffle cryogenic bits are for, got me this:

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d45c542e.jpg


2b8b5766.jpg
 
I prefer the cobalt drill bits. We have sets of them at work, and if I need one at home, I can borrow one. But, for home use, they're a little too expensive. I usually stick with the cheaper HSS bits for home use.
 
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Originally Posted By: tom slick
Your pilot hole was too big, that's why the shoulders are chipped. I'd have used a 1/8" pilot then the 3/8" bit.


That's exactly what I did! I did put a 3/16 hammer bit in after the 1/8, but it fit right in...
 
Originally Posted By: Bamboooo
I prefer the cobalt drill bits. We have sets of them at work, and if I need one at home, I can borrow one. But, for home use, they're a little too expensive. I usually stick with the cheaper HSS bits for home use.



I bought the cobalt ones as they seem to be us made.

Some of the holes I made with titanium bits or black oxide, which I felt cut better for longer.
 
Cobalt is great on hard/abrasive materials but more brittle so it may be more likely to snap when abused. i.e. drilling with a hand drill in metal.

TiN ("Titanium") or black oxide is irrelevant outside of a production machine shop. These coatings provide a degree of lubrication on the flutes to extend the life and better chip extraction. The life of a uncoated good bit is well beyond anything a home shop is ever going to see. Buying a high quality bit is more important than the coating.
 
man o man, fantastic info. when i was young an old guy showed me how to sharpen a bit by hand. i thought it could not be done but i did get it done. with out a gauge.
 
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