Directional WiFi beaming?

[Y_K]

Gee.. the Aruba AP11 (or AP22) is a killer.

I have an older 4x4 Aruba 535 behind an Opnsense box and couldn't be happier.
Get that tplink cheap trinket mentality out of your system

========

if you decide on a PoE switch, buy a PoE+ one, otherwise you may need an injector

 

[mk378]

I would specify this set ($249 MSRP) instead of the Ubiquiti Building Bridge:

Wireless Wire Cube | MikroTik

A 2 Gb/s 60 GHz aggregate link with a 5 GHz failover. Forget about wires or downtime!

mikrotik.com

This can run at gigabit speed for a few hundred meters (Free air line of sight, 60 GHz requires NO obstructions).
Considering the OP has 300 Mb ISP this is a "future proof" consideration.

 

[JHZR2]

Gee.. the Aruba AP11 (or AP22) is a killer.

I have an older 4x4 Aruba 535 behind an Opnsense box and couldn't be happier.
Get that tplink cheap trinket mentality out of your system

========

if you decide on a PoE switch, buy a PoE+ one, otherwise you may need an injector

Ok have to ask about all comments.

Why is the AP11 a killer?

And

Why get the tplink out of my system? It was a cheap option to try to do a proof of concept. These antennas use the Qualcomm Atheros Enterprise chipsets. I can’t imagine it’s that bad…. I’m not running a business off of it, nor am I doing anything mission critical off of it. My primary concern is security, but is that system that seems to only be able to be worked on by setting a computer to a static ip and logging in via a wire, that bad of a design/implementation?

I’m leaning towards getting the AP11 kit that comes with it’s dedicated power. It’s like $104 vs $76, but then I’m using the native hw not some aftermarket injector that still costs like $20.

 

[JHZR2]

I would specify this set ($249 MSRP) instead of the Ubiquiti Building Bridge:
View attachment 79010

Wireless Wire Cube | MikroTik

A 2 Gb/s 60 GHz aggregate link with a 5 GHz failover. Forget about wires or downtime!

mikrotik.com

This can run at gigabit speed for a few hundred meters (Free air line of sight, 60 GHz requires NO obstructions).
Considering the OP has 300 Mb ISP this is a "future proof" consideration.

Well I definitely have obstructions because I have some trees between the two locations.

That’s part of the reason why I got the cheap tp link antennas first. I wanted to see if the line of sight via some trees was viable at all or if the idea had to be scrapped from the start…

 

[Donald]

Seems expensive to me.

View attachment 79005

The price is cheaper on store.ui.com. (Ubiquity store).

It goes up to 500m. In order to go 500m you would need to run fiber. It's too far for CAT6 cable even with repeaters.

 

[JHZR2]

The price is cheaper on store.ui.com. (Ubiquity store).

It goes up to 500m. In order to go 500m you would need to run fiber. It's too far for CAT6 cable even with repeaters.

I do t have any way to run a wire between buildings. The properties are line of sight (with trees), but the property is not continuous.

 

[mk378]

The pair of CPE210 at 2.4 GHz should work, even through some trees. It will not be super fast of course.

The AP11 is a lot of AP for its $79 price point. I note that Amazon sells the AP17, which is basically an AP11 in an outdoor case, for a lot more. It isn't worth adding $25 to get the power adapter which is just a 12 volt 1 amp wall wart that you likely already have something suitable in the junk box.

 

[PandaBear]

I would specify this set ($249 MSRP) instead of the Ubiquiti Building Bridge:
View attachment 79010

Wireless Wire Cube | MikroTik

A 2 Gb/s 60 GHz aggregate link with a 5 GHz failover. Forget about wires or downtime!

mikrotik.com

This can run at gigabit speed for a few hundred meters (Free air line of sight, 60 GHz requires NO obstructions).
Considering the OP has 300 Mb ISP this is a "future proof" consideration.

60GHz won't travel distance very well. I'd stay at or below 2.4GHz. Come to think of it, does anyone sell a 900MHz kit that travels further than 2.4GHz?

 

[JHZR2]

60GHz won't travel distance very well. I'd stay at or below 2.4GHz. Come to think of it, does anyone sell a 900MHz kit that travels further than 2.4GHz?

I have been able to get data on the 2.4GHz at the distance… so I don’t think I need to go lower. Just need the time to set it all up and secure it…

 

[CDX825]

Once you get your link setup turn off the SSID broadcast so no one can see the access point.

 

[Skippy722]

Once you get your link setup turn off the SSID broadcast so no one can see the access point.

Doing that just prevents your average passerby from seeing it… anybody who actually wants to see all networks will be able to see it regardless if you turn off SSID broadcast or not.

 

[alarmguy]

Doing that just prevents your average passerby from seeing it… anybody who actually wants to see all networks will be able to see it regardless if you turn off SSID broadcast or not.

Very true, at the same time, most common neighbors dont know this, though I guess if they hack they would but most normal people dont know.
I do wonder if google maps picks it up if its turned off. That might be a reason to turn it off, just to deny them cataloging it and using it for navigation. From a quick search, is seems turning off the SSID prevents google from using your router as a location device, Im still searching if turning off the SSID does the same. Sometimes devices in your home will have issues though but there is always a way around it.

You also can opt out by creating a special SSID... ending in "_nomap"

Control access point inclusion in Google's Location services - Google Maps Help

To improve Location services and estimate the location of a device, Google uses publicly broadcast Wi-Fi information from wireless access points and GPS, cell tower, and sensor data. This data is limi

support.google.com

 

[JHZR2]

So, SSID and security brings up a question…

Im using this as an AP and a client. That client will feed an Aruba AP11 to provide WiFi in the building.

The connection from CPE210 antenna to CPE210 antenna is the single, only connection that it should ever have unless I’m wired into it to administer it. Currently I can connect to it with my iPhone and perform a Speedtest, browse the web, etc. I suspect it could connect lots of devices if they saw it, had the key, and wanted to connect to it. Since it’s a signal that will go further, I don’t want it to be able to be connected to…

So what’s the best way to restrict connectivity to exactly one other device (I.e. the other cpe 210)? Do I limit the allowable Mac addresses that can be connected to solely the other antenna? Or is there a better/different way?

Seems to me that a strong psk and limitations on the number of connections woukd be the right approach…?

 

[Skippy722]

So, SSID and security brings up a question…

Im using this as an AP and a client. That client will feed an Aruba AP11 to provide WiFi in the building.

The connection from CPE210 antenna to CPE210 antenna is the single, only connection that it should ever have unless I’m wired into it to administer it. Currently I can connect to it with my iPhone and perform a Speedtest, browse the web, etc. I suspect it could connect lots of devices if they saw it, had the key, and wanted to connect to it. Since it’s a signal that will go further, I don’t want it to be able to be connected to…

So what’s the best way to restrict connectivity to exactly one other device (I.e. the other cpe 210)? Do I limit the allowable Mac addresses that can be connected to solely the other antenna? Or is there a better/different way?

Seems to me that a strong psk and limitations on the number of connections woukd be the right approach…?

The easiest is a good strong password with WPA2-AES and leave it at that. That alone makes it not worthwhile to 99.999% of people. Disable SSID and throw in MAC address filtering for extra caution if desired.

If you’re paranoid, you’ll have to run Ethernet. Anybody can download Wireshark, get the required MAC addresses, and then spoof those addresses if they’re determined enough. The number of people with those skills, patience, and time however is incredibly small.

 

[OVERKILL]

So, SSID and security brings up a question…

Im using this as an AP and a client. That client will feed an Aruba AP11 to provide WiFi in the building.

The connection from CPE210 antenna to CPE210 antenna is the single, only connection that it should ever have unless I’m wired into it to administer it. Currently I can connect to it with my iPhone and perform a Speedtest, browse the web, etc. I suspect it could connect lots of devices if they saw it, had the key, and wanted to connect to it. Since it’s a signal that will go further, I don’t want it to be able to be connected to…

So what’s the best way to restrict connectivity to exactly one other device (I.e. the other cpe 210)? Do I limit the allowable Mac addresses that can be connected to solely the other antenna? Or is there a better/different way?

Seems to me that a strong psk and limitations on the number of connections woukd be the right approach…?

Just use a ridiculously strong password. Anything else you do (MAC filtering, hiding SSID) can be circumvented if somebody is dedicated enough, so they aren't really security measures and just aide in making future troubleshooting (if necessary) more cumbersome for you.

 

[JHZR2]

I’ve had zero time to mess with this, but decided to take some time today to set up the two to-link cpe210 antennas. One as an AP the other as a client. The client will connect to an Aruba APIN0303.

I have them both inside of the windows. One in the attic of my house, about 300 feet away, the other in the loft of my offsite garage.

At least the garage one has a very easy/clean way for exterior mounting, but I want it all set up and functioning before I worry much about mounting.

The results I get both inside and hanging outside the building are pretty similar:

Will this be sufficient to stream Amazon music, low quality YouTube, and cameras?

I can’t seem to “get out” to the internet in the current setup. I know I have when directly connected to just the sending AP in the past.

Current setup is:

Fios - Router - powerline adapters - CPE210 AP - air gap - CPE210 Client

Currently the client is connected to my laptop. I get no internet. So somehow it’s not connecting back to my router. I’m not sure why. I followed the setup instructions. I assume perhaps I need to set up the AP to get the right IP address or something??


Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[ripcord]

I have a similar setup but with EnGenius hardware. Instead of an AP -> Client setup, I have it setup in a client bridging mode where everything is in the same IP segment. That way computers in the shop can connect with ones in the house. In this configuration the only DHCP server is the main WiFi router that connects directly to the cable modem. WiFi in the shop is handled by a WiFi repeater.

 

[JHZR2]

So I messed with it some more.

I connected to the Access Point at my home using its SSID, got a “regular” IP address consistent with those served by my router (192.168.50.x), and was able to connect to websites without issue.

I then went over to the other property. I can connect to the access point by name, and my computer (2008 MacBook Pro) shows “full bars” of wifi. However, there is no connection. I mean, it connects, but nothing loads at all. My understanding is that this is due to the computer having a weaker antenna.

The client CPE210 only seems to stay connected for 5 seconds at a time. If I keep a static IP address on it, I stay connected to the client, but there is no data throughput.

I tried to enable DHCP, and the client will give an IP address, but it’s a 192.168.0.x address, not one given directly from my router.

So I assume that I might have a better connection using the AP/Client setup, since it would be a stronger combination of antennas, but I have no idea how to set up the client to stay connected and actually serve data to anything that is connected to it.

The instructions are useless because they don’t actually say how to do it. And I don’t know if that means that there’s something wrong with the setup, with one end, with settings, etc.

It seems that the connection between units may only actually work for a few seconds. The connection time resets after about 4-5 seconds, and it does that o et and over again.

Im happy to buy something different as long as it is secure and performs well.

 

[ripcord]

I'm sure you can make it work with that hardware as your scenario is the type of thing it's designed for.

https://manualzz.com/doc/o/126mh9/tp-link-wbs210-user-guide-access-point-client-repeater-bridge-mode

 

[JHZR2]

I'm sure you can make it work with that hardware as your scenario is the type of thing it's designed for.

https://manualzz.com/doc/o/126mh9/tp-link-wbs210-user-guide-access-point-client-repeater-bridge-mode

That’s what I don’t understand. I set it up according to the manual. This isn’t particularly difficult to do.

That may indicate that it’s a signal quality issue. Somehow we get “full bars” of signal but no real data behind it. But how can that be? Is the wifi signal strength symbol not smart enough? Can there be a scenario where the signal is strong but the throughput is useless?