dino vs synth.

[onebadz]

Does anyone have a good link for me to read. I was always under the impression that synth was no better than dino. Although this is my first day I see that this may not be true.

I have a turbo car so I know that need to be considered but, can you increase intervals between changes even with a turbo.

What does autorx do to the car?

 

[Al]

The best link for unbiased information is right where you are. Just take your time and read up. Basically syns will take higher temperatures and lower temperatures better. "True" synthetics like Mobil 1/Amsoil (not Syntec type oils, including Havoline, Quakerstate, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Store brand syns, etc) are good for extended drain intervals. If you like changing oils every 3 to 4 K miles then oils like Chevron/GTX 20W-30 will do about as well as most syns. Just bear in mind you give up some protection when bad things (loss of coolant) occur.

 

[3 Mad Ponchos]

This is a good place to start. Lots of oil talk here, and hard numbers through analysis.

Overall, synthetic has better performance characteristics than dino oil. The question, of course, is always whether you will ever need that extra protection.

One of my own theories is that if you expect to own your car for 100,000 miles or less, then synthetic is probably not necessary. You could probably run a car on vegetable oil and it'd make it to 100,000.

But if you're getting into long life, severe service, high performance, extended drains, or environmental protection, then you're entering the domain of quality synthetic oils.

I have a study going on that is evaluating the abilities of synthetics to withstand extended drains:
http://oilstudy.spacebears.com

But extended drains is only one piece of the puzzle.

Cheers, 3MP

 

[TR3-2001SE]

This was a good write-up on synthetics but is somewhat dated at this point. Good info in it still. http://mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt

[ April 30, 2003, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: TR3-2001SE ]

 

[onebadz]

quote:

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Originally posted by TR3-2001SE:
This was a good write-up on synthetics but is somewhat dated at this point. Good info in it still. http://mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt

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thanks

 

[davefr]

IMHO having a turbo is good justification for a quality synthetic. Turbo bearings can get red hot after a good workout and synthetics can withstand the temp. extremes better than dino juice.

Most turbocharged engines recommend a cool down period after a highway workout but if you happen to forget, your chances of frying oil are less if you use a quality synthetic.

quote:

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Originally posted by onebadz:
Does anyone have a good link for me to read. I was always under the impression that synth was no better than dino. Although this is my first day I see that this may not be true.

I have a turbo car so I know that need to be considered but, can you increase intervals between changes even with a turbo.

What does autorx do to the car?

---

 

[onebadz]

quote:

---

Originally posted by davefr:
IMHO having a turbo is good justification for a quality synthetic. Turbo bearings can get red hot after a good workout and synthetics can withstand the temp. extremes better than dino juice.

Most turbocharged engines recommend a cool down period after a highway workout but if you happen to forget, your chances of frying oil are less if you use a quality synthetic.

quote:

---

Originally posted by onebadz:
Does anyone have a good link for me to read. I was always under the impression that synth was no better than dino. Although this is my first day I see that this may not be true.

I have a turbo car so I know that need to be considered but, can you increase intervals between changes even with a turbo.

What does autorx do to the car?

---

---

my friend runs a twin turbo mitsubishi 3000gt and he uses durablend. He says he loses oil pressure when he switched to full synth. Is this true or was he imagining it.

I also read an article that says you should wait 6-8k miles to switch to synthetic to make sure the car breaks in ok.

any comments?

 

[davefr]

I don't think modern engines need the same break in period as they once did.

But just to be on the safe side I'd change a new engine's oil at 500 miles, then at 4000 miles, and then convert to the "good stuff".

quote:

---

Originally posted by onebadz:

quote:

---

Originally posted by davefr:
IMHO having a turbo is good justification for a quality synthetic. Turbo bearings can get red hot after a good workout and synthetics can withstand the temp. extremes better than dino juice.

Most turbocharged engines recommend a cool down period after a highway workout but if you happen to forget, your chances of frying oil are less if you use a quality synthetic.

quote:

---

Originally posted by onebadz:
Does anyone have a good link for me to read. I was always under the impression that synth was no better than dino. Although this is my first day I see that this may not be true.

I have a turbo car so I know that need to be considered but, can you increase intervals between changes even with a turbo.

What does autorx do to the car?

---

---

my friend runs a twin turbo mitsubishi 3000gt and he uses durablend. He says he loses oil pressure when he switched to full synth. Is this true or was he imagining it.

I also read an article that says you should wait 6-8k miles to switch to synthetic to make sure the car breaks in ok.

any comments?

---

 

[digitaldrifter91]

i got a quick question refering to this. taking the fact that long idling and short trips hurts regular dino oil, how much affect can this have on synthetic? if i have a car that idles alot and has very short trips can a synthetic hold up longer as well (past 3k)?

im concidering changing the oil in my 86 300zx engine to synthetic for it gets barley any miles, alot of idling and short trips. super sludge right now to and its being cleaned with auto rx.

can i have ur input? thanks!

 

[onebadz]

quote:

---

Originally posted by davefr:
I don't think modern engines need the same break in period as they once did.

But just to be on the safe side I'd change a new engine's oil at 500 miles, then at 4000 miles, and then convert to the "good stuff".

quote:

---

Originally posted by onebadz:

quote:

---

Originally posted by davefr:
IMHO having a turbo is good justification for a quality synthetic. Turbo bearings can get red hot after a good workout and synthetics can withstand the temp. extremes better than dino juice.

Most turbocharged engines recommend a cool down period after a highway workout but if you happen to forget, your chances of frying oil are less if you use a quality synthetic.

quote:

---

Originally posted by onebadz:
Does anyone have a good link for me to read. I was always under the impression that synth was no better than dino. Although this is my first day I see that this may not be true.

I have a turbo car so I know that need to be considered but, can you increase intervals between changes even with a turbo.

What does autorx do to the car?

---

---

my friend runs a twin turbo mitsubishi 3000gt and he uses durablend. He says he loses oil pressure when he switched to full synth. Is this true or was he imagining it.

I also read an article that says you should wait 6-8k miles to switch to synthetic to make sure the car breaks in ok.

any comments?

---

---

someone was telling me to use 0w40 in my car. I am a little worried about that. any other thoughts. and if this is correct what are the thoughts on durablend or am i better going over to redline?

 

[mikemc]

Onebadz, since you have a turbo AND want extended drains, you probably are better off with a full synthetic. I would suggest Mobil1 because its very easy to find at any Walmart or parts store. Cost will be between 4 and 5 dollars a quart. Use the viscosity recommended in your owner's manual.

 

[sprintman]

Turbo with dino is not a good combo IMO. Amsoil, Mobil, Motul, Neo, Pennzoil, Redline, Schaeffers etc have good syn products. A new 'killer oil' on our Timken is BP Visco 5000 5W40 PAO syn. Definitely worth a try if you can get BP product?

 

[onebadz]

The want the best for my turbo car, VW1.8T. I also want to be able to go longer between changes

 

[onebadz]

quote:

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Originally posted by sprintman:
Turbo with dino is not a good combo IMO. Amsoil, Mobil, Motul, Neo, Pennzoil, Redline, Schaeffers etc have good syn products. A new 'killer oil' on our Timken is BP Visco 5000 5W40 PAO syn. Definitely worth a try if you can get BP product?

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what is Timken? Where can I find BP products at? I checked with the dealer last night and the Volkswagen book says to run 0w30 in synthetic form. Looks like I will be making the switch on the next change.