Did I choose well my '05 Audi A4?

[GregPR]

I'm wondering if I've chosen wisely for my last couple of oil changes... Please advise me.

The car in question is a 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet with a 3.0 V-6 (no turbo). The owners manual calls for a synthetic 5W40, 5W30 or 0W40 (specified in that order in the manual) that meets Audi oil standard VW 502 00. I don't really know what that standard means, but when I googled it I found a couple of pdf documents which list specific oils meeting the standard. The owners manual calls for 10K mile OCI, though I do them every 5k.

For my last couple oil changes I used Rotella T6 5W40 with Audi OEM filters, based on input I received on this board a year or two ago for a Volvo I own. I was happy with the results there, so when I realized the Audi called for the same grade it was a no-brainer.

I changed the timing belt on the Audi over the weekend, which entails removing the cam covers. I didn't note any sludge or other alarming deposits.

So as I was perusing one of the Audi forums today I ran across a discussion thread where a number of folks spoke ill of using Rotella (a diesel oil) in a gasoline engine. I was a little taken aback. The only real rationale I noted was that Rotella contains detergents formulated specifically for diesel engines, and was therefore unsuitable for gasoline engines. My initial reaction was 'hogwash!', but then the doubt started to creep in.

So I turn to the folks who know. Rotella in my Audi: good or not?

On a side note, we recently picked up a 2004 VW Jetta with a 2.8 V-6 NA engine. I was planning to put Rotella in that one too...

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

[CrawfishTails]

Diesel oil is fine as long as you see "SL" or SM or SN on it, as those tests are all done on gasoline engines for deposits, wear, etc.

That said, why not get Walmart's Mobil1 0w-40 or Castrol in the same weight? Those are VW 502.

 

[Quattro Pete]

If your cars were still under warranty, I would have said to ditch Rotella and use an oil that actually meets the VW 502.00 spec. But since you're way past warranty, and not running 10K OCI, I'd say you should be fine with.

With that said, a proper VW 502.00 approved oil is no more expensive than Rotella, so I really don't see why you'd want to run it, other than maybe you have a huge stash of it.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I don't know much about Audi engines and its oil specs, but I agree with Peter about using VW 502.00 approved oils such as M1 or Castrol 0W40, especially when it doesn't cost more than Rotella and easy to find anywhere.

 

[sicko]

Check out: http://s02.static-shell.com/content/dam/...t6-brochure.pdf

On the right side of the first page you'll see where it says "SPECIFICATIONS AND APPROVALS", under this you'll see the list of various approvals/certifications it has which includes API SM. API SM means it's been certified for use in gasoline engines.

Rotella T6 is an excellent oil, continue to use it with confidence. In fact, I suspect it can go longer than 5k miles, but do what you're comfortable with or get a UOA done to check the condition of the used oil.

Although there is no reason to change, some other oils also worth considering are M1 0w-40 and Castrol 0w-40.

 

[gregk24]

I doubt you have done damage from using Rotella. Having said that if it were my car I would be using Mobil 1 0w40 available at WM for the every day price of $25. You just cant beat that.

 

[Stewie]

Ouch, if it is still running is all good. However, why bother in the first place?

Run what your owner's manual say and changing the oil early is not a bad idea either.

 

[JHZR2]

I'm sure those surprised folks will be appalled to know that the ACEA "B" specs are actually for diesels, and the oils they are using most definitely hold those specs!

I have heard that some of the diesel detergents can be prone to forming deposits more readily than those typically used in gas engine oriented oils. I don't have a citation, and frankly, if your engine doesn't consume, I wouldn't be concerned.

All that said, M1 0w-40 is such a good and stout oil, I'd run it with confidence and not look back...

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

All that said, M1 0w-40 is such a good and stout oil, I'd run it with confidence and not look back...
Just what I was thinking.

 

[dlundblad]

I'd pick whichever 0w40 is cheapest and easiest to find for you.

This is the engine in my dad's new to him A4. We took the passenger side valve cover off yesterday and found a horrid nastily worn cam.

Have you had to do a valve cover gasket replacement yet?

 

[GregPR]

Thanks for all the input, folks.

I was really happy with the way the T6 quieted down the top end noise of the old Volvo we own. So choosing it for the Audi seemed logical. I don't have a huge stash of it, but I do like to pick it up when one of our local big-box home centers (Menards) runs 11% rebates. Their normal price for a gallon is 21 dollars, so purchasing there gets it down to under $5 per quart.

As for Mobil 1... I guess I have mixed feelings on it. I know it is extremely well regarded on this (and most any other) automotive forum. Heck, my son even works in the test lab at an Exxon plant in KC,KS. I ran M1 in my big V-twin motorcycle for years, until they stopped carrying the M1 20W50 at walmart in the big jugs. I found that grade repackaged as "M1 V-TWIN" at an Advance Auto Parts for something like $9/qt. Forget that. It was too much money for a bike I'm only putting 1500 - 2K miles on annually (with fresh oil & filter every spring). I switched to Castrol conventional, and I immediately noticed the absence of top end noise. I mean, the difference was astonishing. The engine sounded completely different, in a happy kind of way. Maybe the difference is purely aesthetic - but it made an impact.

Back to the Audi, and the question about removing the cam covers. I just had those off this weekend when I did the timing belt (a BEAR of a job). Everything under there looked about as good as you'd expect for 75K miles. I had no worries.

Thanks to all for weighing in.

 

[threeputtpar]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I'd pick whichever 0w40 is cheapest and easiest to find for you.

This is the engine in my dad's new to him A4. We took the passenger side valve cover off yesterday and found a horrid nastily worn cam.

Have you had to do a valve cover gasket replacement yet?


This is the issue dlundblad is speaking of:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3622409#Post3622409

OP - did you happen to notice the condition of the exhaust cam on the passenger side above the middle cylinder?

And I think you did just fine with the T6 oil choice. The other two good options at Walmart would be Castrol Edge 0W-40 and Mobil 1 0W-40, in that order due to current pricing.

 

[GregPR]

Ooooohhhhh.... I see now.

I came across dlundblad's post regarding that bad cam when I ran some searches before posting my question. When he responded to my thread it didn't click that they were the same person. I noted those photos. Gave me the shivers. Yeesh. My heart goes out to him & his dad.

Doing the timing belt on the car required pulling both valve covers and installing locking tools on the cams and a pin in the crank to maintain TDC position. I turned the crank by hand a few times to make sure I indeed found TDC -- so I did watch both my passenger side cams rotate fully -- and I didn't notice similar damage. Particularly on that lobe - it's right next to where the cam lock has to be installed. I surely hope I would have noticed it. I also repeated the hand-cranking process after removing the locks to makes sure I still had the timing right. Plus I spent a lot of time hovering over the cams while cleaning the gasket mating surfaces. I surely hope I would have picked up on similar damage.

I have to say I didn't spend a whole lot of time studying the drivers side cams while they turned. I know the sides facing up during the job were fine . I suppose the downward-facing sides could have been damaged and I might not have noticed.

EDIT: I did find some gross white goo in the PCV tube leading to that passenger side valve cover. I don't know what it was, but I heard theories that it had something to do with moisture in the oil - or was the result of overfilling somewhere along the line. Interestingly, there was no sign of it on the drivers side. I cleaned up what I could and made a mental note to pull those PCV lines sometime soon for cleaning or replacement.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: GregPR
Thanks for all the input, folks.

I was really happy with the way the T6 quieted down the top end noise of the old Volvo we own. So choosing it for the Audi seemed logical. I don't have a huge stash of it, but I do like to pick it up when one of our local big-box home centers (Menards) runs 11% rebates. Their normal price for a gallon is 21 dollars, so purchasing there gets it down to under $5 per quart.

As for Mobil 1... I guess I have mixed feelings on it. I know it is extremely well regarded on this (and most any other) automotive forum. Heck, my son even works in the test lab at an Exxon plant in KC,KS. I ran M1 in my big V-twin motorcycle for years, until they stopped carrying the M1 20W50 at walmart in the big jugs. I found that grade repackaged as "M1 V-TWIN" at an Advance Auto Parts for something like $9/qt. Forget that. It was too much money for a bike I'm only putting 1500 - 2K miles on annually (with fresh oil & filter every spring). I switched to Castrol conventional, and I immediately noticed the absence of top end noise. I mean, the difference was astonishing. The engine sounded completely different, in a happy kind of way. Maybe the difference is purely aesthetic - but it made an impact.

Back to the Audi, and the question about removing the cam covers. I just had those off this weekend when I did the timing belt (a BEAR of a job). Everything under there looked about as good as you'd expect for 75K miles. I had no worries.

Thanks to all for weighing in.


My Harley sounded like a can of marbles with anything M1. Heck I'm using conventional Rotella now and I love it.

 

[GregPR]

A can of marbles. LOL. Thats a perfect description!

 

[threeputtpar]

The whole Audi 30v V6 family has been known for poor PCV systems, especially the 2.7t. The spider hose, as it's called, is mediocre at best and expensive to replace. When mine gets clogged again, and it will, I plan on chopping it up and reusing the end fittings and replacing the plastic accordion style hoses with heater hose and worm clamps so I can service it when needed. It's much cheaper this way, too.

Out of the three 30V engines, I believe they rank from worst to best as 2.7t, 2.8, and then your 3.0 so maybe it won't be a big problem for you.