Diagnosing truck shocks

JHZR2

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My new 96 Ram drives really smooth. It has some steering play, but otherwise steers snd rides well. Until I get the cement roadways that aren’t poured in long stretches, instead shorter sections. I encountered a lot of them on recently re-done stretches of US18 in southern SD, but also some sections of the redone I-90.

Feels like the front right tire is bouncing. I wouldnt doubt the shocks are older, but on a heavy sprung vehicle lke this, what’s the best way to check?

This is a long wheelbase truck. Roughly 40” longer wheelbase than my w126 MB and our Odyssey. So I don’t know that this isn’t just an oscillation from a long wheelbase vehicle crossing multiple expansion joints at the same time. On asphalt and longer-pour I-90 sections, this doesn’t happen and the ride is smooth and compliant, even at 80+ MPH allowed on the interstate.

What’s the best way to check shocks if not leaking oil or showing any other telltale signs (bounce test)?

Thanks!
 
I really dont know on these heavy trucks. I will say my new ram 2500 rides soft but much bouncy more unhitched/unloaded. If i had gotten a used truck that rode that way, id suspect the shocks as well. But its the heavier springs unloaded. Bounces way more unloaded than my avalanche did.

Can you tell if they are original? If so , i'd just replace.
 
trucks are strange because the shock performance is so different between the front and rear. Carrying air, the bed needs very little, but with a load back there, it’s never enough. But the front is more consistent. The front is a little heavy to bounce test, so I just go by feel. I’d be certain yours needs replacements by now.
 
What’s the best way to check shocks if not leaking oil or showing any other telltale signs (bounce test)?
Take the shock off and compress it by hand. If it puts up a fight and springs back quickly its probably fine. You don't want it to easily compress down or stay there.
 
If the springs aren't too stiff for this test, jounce each end of the truck. If that end bounces more than once up and down after you stop, the shocks on that axle are probably shot.
 
One way I've checked on commercial vehicles is feel for excessive nosedive when heavily applying the brakes. Much more noticeable if there's a dead shock on the opposite side as you'll feel one corner dive than the other side.
 
Two additional ways to test the shocks:

Have someone drive your truck over varying road conditions while you drive alongside, or behind, and watch how the tires function.

Attach a video/dash cam to the body, and record how the tire responds to the road as you drive.

BC.
 
Don't even check them, new truck, go get a set of Bilsteins and never worry about them again.

What are you running for air pressure in your tires?
 
Bilsteins are available and are not bad for this truck. Double check the part numbers to make sure i got fitment right, but $75 each is not bad. I think i have paid $100 each before.

Rear

Front
 
Pictures of the shocks in question please!
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Take the shock off and compress it by hand. If it puts up a fight and springs back quickly its probably fine. You don't want it to easily compress down or stay there.
That’s a fine approach, but once out I might as well replace, granted, it’s a $400 proposition…

Don't even check them, new truck, go get a set of Bilsteins and never worry about them again.

What are you running for air pressure in your tires?

my thought too… 60 psi all around.

Ive found it definitely is sensitivity to the roads. When I crossed into MN, it got really bad for a bit on some of the older asphalt roads. Around mm 35 on I-90 (IIRC), the road type changed, and it was a reddish asphalt, which was smoother and no issues. It’s very dependent upon the joints and undulations in the road, like it creates it’s own resonance that is undamped… thus shocks are suspect…
 
With trucks it's mileage. Over 75k then the shocks are on their way out. They weaken gradually as the miles go on unless they leak out their oil.
Be happy it's not a electronic shock.
 
I wish my fronts were that easy to change. Looks like a typical vertical nut up top and the 2 shorties on the bottom. with it that easy, I wouldn’t hesitate. My Ford has it set as a coil-over assembly requiring gymnastics and a spring compressor. I’ve done these a couple of times and with this one, I’ll probably pay someone this time.

bilstein is safe money here. Gabriel ultras get good reviews here. I’ve enjoyed Monroe reflex, the softest of the bunch, but I’m not sure of their longevity.
 
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