DI Engines - 100K mile Reviews ?

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Just checking on how Direct Injection(DI) engines are fairing at higher mileage (i.e. 100K) with respect to intake valve desposit issues ? ...Perhaps it may depend on the engine - but I am specifically interested in the Hyundai / Kia GDI engines and how they have generally faired over the last few years ? Lastly - does variable valve timing (Hyundai DI engine) play a role with a DI engine design to control intake valve deposits ? ...Thanks in advance for your replies .
 
May not be many out there yet with so many miles to really get a good say on what your asking. What I can tell you is my friend has a 2012 Sonata 2.4 GDI motor and has about 50K miles on it. No issues. Engine sounds like [censored], but runs good. What I mean is, Hyundai Four bangers sound very course to me. This has nothing to do with reliability, or anything, and you cant hear it from in the car, but outside, just sounds so course. I think Hyundai is a great car and would buy without hesitation. I believe there are a couple models they sell like the Elantra 1.8 that is not GDI. Not sure if this helps you or not? If you like the car? Get it. If your worried about something happening you have 100K mile warranty remember? hehe Jeff
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I believe there are a couple models they sell like the Elantra 1.8 that is not GDI. Jeff
Correct, so far the 1.8 is MPFI not DI , thats why i chose it. I liked the Sonata as it was a bit larger but DI led me to the Elantra. Happy with it so far.
 
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Using fuel additives in the tank regularly helps, and is actually now recommended by most manufacturers. BG 44k every 5000 miles will work wonders.
 

CT8

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The motoring public buying these cars are doing the final testing and miles will tell, they are getting there.
 
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A few members on the Hyundai / Kia forums have reached that milestone, all without deposit issues that they know of. Cars idle fine and drivability is still excellent. This, of course, comes from a very small sampling.
 
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If I was in the market for a new car I'd certainly leave the testing to someone else and purchase a vehicle without DI. For me, simple is better.
 
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Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
If I was in the market for a new car I'd certainly leave the testing to someone else and purchase a vehicle without DI. For me, simple is better.
That was my thought, its why i went with the 1.8 mpfi in the elantra.
 
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Originally Posted By: salv
Using fuel additives in the tank regularly helps, and is actually now recommended by most manufacturers.
How exactly does it help a DI engine?
 
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Yea I have not heard any problems expect from European cars and the lexus 250 motors for build up. The DI for Kia/Hyundai has been out long enough for a problem to really come up but I have not seen any or heard of any. I would still do a throttle body cleaning ever 10k on all cars. Cars with DI that are known issues I may do more to help them though.
 
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I installed a catch can on my 2013 Sonata 2.4L. Will it help deposits - not sure but I do pull about 8 oz. of liquid crud from the catch can every 3,750 miles, which is the OCI for Canada.
 
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I have a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 that I have owned since new; it currently has 146,500 miles on it. It needed a turbo and VVT actuator under warranty, an EGR valve at 69,000 miles and a t-stat at 130,800 miles. None of those issues were related to DI. In May I installed a Hypertech tune and the engine currently makes a bit over 300 hp at the crank and averages @28 mpg overall- and can return over 32 mpg at a 70 mph cruise. I run Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and it gets changed every 7,500 miles. I am very pleased with both the car and the engine- and I would not hesitate to buy another vehicle with a DI engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: salv
Using fuel additives in the tank regularly helps, and is actually now recommended by most manufacturers.
How exactly does it help a DI engine?
Unless it's a dual fuel injection system it so nothing
 

ChrisD46

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Not many PFI engines left in the larger mid - size segment . The Ford Fusion still comes with a PFI 2.5L but I believe only in the base model ...If you want a $$ trim option I believe it only comes with a DI engine . The new Hyundai Sonata and Kia Optima are both on my short list - but only DI engines offered .
 

ChrisD46

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OK , I found a scientific study on GDI engine deposits (it gets pretty interesting 2/3rds thru the study ) http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf What I take away from this study : 1) Use Top Tier gas 2) Don't "lug" a GDI engine 3) Use a top quality , low NOACK oil 4) Change the oil early and often. 5) Aftermarket gas additives probably do little in a GDI engine ** What I can't determine is if the study shows a benefit to using a synthetic Group IV oil and changing it early / often has an advantage over doing the same with Group III or Group II oils ?
 
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Originally Posted By: salv
Using fuel additives in the tank regularly helps, and is actually now recommended by most manufacturers. BG 44k every 5000 miles will work wonders.
Huh? Please enlighten me with an explanation on how an in tank fuel additive will affect intake valve deposits when at no point whatsoever does the fuel come in contact with the intake valve? And exactly what oem's are recommending a fuel additive for intake valve deposits? OP The valve deposit issue is platform specific and depends on how the engine is operated. There are folks who drive spiritedly who report no problems with deposits and others who require walnut shell blasting. If the engine isn't boosted a top end cleaner thru the brake booster every 10000 miles should prevent any issues. If the engine has a turbo then DO NOT ADMINISTER anything via a vacuum line. As far as direct injection is concerned I like the extra injector idea. Improves part throttle response and keeps the valve clean. Win-win. Til every oem either adopts the extra injector idea or finds some way of preventing the pcv valve from sucking in misted oil there's going to be a problem with a dirty intake valve. I'll stick with my older vehicles with their proven tech and let the early adopters pay the bills on direct injection til there is a solution. I think the deposits come from the pcv and egr systems. And those catch cans don't stop the issue(where it is an issue)and tampering with those systems while under warranty is a bad idea.
 
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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
OK , I found a scientific study on GDI engine deposits (it gets pretty interesting 2/3rds thru the study ) http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf What I take away from this study : 1) Use Top Tier gas 2) Don't "lug" a GDI engine 3) Use a top quality , low NOACK oil 4) Change the oil early and often. 5) Aftermarket gas additives probably do little in a GDI engine ** What I can't determine is if the study shows a benefit to using a synthetic Group IV oil and changing it early / often has an advantage over doing the same with Group III or Group II oils ?
Interesting study and thanks for posting... From reviewing page 16/20, it looks as if fresh oil makes the biggest difference where oil is concerned, more so than does GrpII vs GrpIII (a very small difference is seen between these in the graphs). GrpIV being the exception as it shows a more distinct advantage. All in all, your other takes fall in line with mine.
 
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