Delo 400 15w-40, 4,196 miles, 95 Geo Prizm 157,056

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Summary:
Engine : Toyota 1.8L 7AFE
Filter : Purolator PremiumPlus L14476 Date coded 1993
Fill Oil : Delo 400 15w-40 SL-grade
Sample Date: 12/12/2006

Total Miles: 157,056 miles
Interval : 4,196 miles
Duration : 83 days 9/08/06-12/12/06
Make-up Oil: 3 quarts of Chevron Supreme 5w-30 SM grade
Lube Control - LC20: 8oz on change, 12oz over interval
Blackstone Labs


Aluminum 2
Chromium 1
Iron 6
Copper 3
Lead 1
Tin 0
Molybdenum 236
Nickel 1
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 28
Silicon 5
Sodium 3
Calcium 2922
Magnesium 11
Phosphorus 976
Zinc 1229
Barium 0

TBN: Not tested
Viscosity 66.1 Should be 68-78 per Blackstone for Delo 15w-40 FLAGGED
Flashpoint 390F Should be >390F FLAGGED
Fuel Trace Should be Water 0.0
Insolubles 0.5%


Blackstone commented about raising this interval. I had the interval cut short due to the cold weather that we had and I didn't want to run a 15w-40 under 10 degrees F otherwise I would have run this for double the interval. Blackstone didn't mention any issues with this interval other than the flagged viscosity and flashpoint.

I used Chevron Supreme 5w-30 as my make-up oil and I used 3 quarts of it which 3/4 qt. per 1,000 miles is my highest consumption rate yet when last time it was 1/2 qt. per 1,000 miles but that was also a thicker oil as well. It could be because of higher highway speed and I won't be concerned unless it reaches a rate higher than 1qt/1k.

I am currently trying an interval with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 for the winter and I think I will be using synthetic through the winter and sticking with conventional oil through the summer. How long do you think I should stretch this interval.

Does 10,000 miles sound reasonable? I am willing to take the risk of some extra wear for an interval as it seems that this engine really doesn't produce much of any wear at all.

What do you guys think?
 
I am wondering if the flagged sodium was an antifreeze into the oil problem? Or road salt? or did it just go away the next OCI?

I think that 7.5K with the PP would work for the Winter and if you like the Delo 15-40 in the Summer for 7.5K that should work also. You should find a SM/SL rated oil and stay with it year round. If you like 10-40 stay with PP or Q full group III synthetics.
 
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Am i reading this correctly? 3 quarts of make up oil in 4,196 miles??? Something doesnt seem right.



My wife's '93 3.0 V6 Aerostar uses a three quarts in 3900 miles. Runs great too. Has always consumed since we got it at 27,000 miles.
 
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""Does 10,000 miles sound reasonable?""

No




Short answer, please explain, what would be reasonable to you? In the past members of this board had suggested it.

Quote:


I am wondering if the flagged sodium was an antifreeze into the oil problem? Or road salt? or did it just go away the next OCI?




This went away, it was my first OCI of the car, it could have been a possible oil with some sodium from the past(unknown brand) or road salt. It obviously didn't increase wear.

Quote:


Am i reading this correctly? 3 quarts of make up oil in 4,196 miles??? Something doesnt seem right.




Highway driving seems to make this engine consume, it is reported to do this with this engine from other members with no other problems becoming apparent. There are no obvious leaks, the spark plugs look clean, and compression is excellent. I can live with it. Others on the forum have seen a higher consumption rate with Delo for some reason, plus it was combined with 5w-30 too.


If not 10,000 miles? What should OCI should I run?
 
Your level of insolubles is too high to consider 10,000 mile OCI's in this application, without improving your oil filtration and perhaps your combustion efficiency.

I'd strongly consider using one of the Amsoil EAO oil filters on this motor and see if you can't mitigate the buildup of solids. Based on my preliminary testing of these new filters, I believe it may be possible to extend this OCI by at least 50% and still maintain a safe level of solids.

The other thing I'd suggest is to use the Delo 5w-40, or Rottella T, 5w-40 synthetics instead of an SAE 15w-40 petroleum oil. The superior oxidation resistance of a full synthetic should reduce the level of solids and will be suitable for year round use in this high mileage motor....
 
Quote:


Am i reading this correctly? 3 quarts of make up oil in 4,196 miles??? Something doesnt seem right.



I've seen several of those series Toyota engines that are oil burners starting in the 100,000 mile range. I don't think it's uncommon at all. But much like the Saturn 1.9 they will just keep on going if you don't run them low.
 
I'd ARX and after the cycle try for lower weights again.
I think that 4 is relatively dirty and does carbon and stick rings. So besides checking the PCV system including the hose and grommet I would and have had good luck cleaning up the same toyota motors and reducing consumption of oil. I'd just use the longer 14477 Purolator filters too if they fit.
 
Why change the oil as it appears your changing it 1 quart at a time anyway. The uoa is almost useless considering frequency the amount of new oil added.
 
Thanks for the comments so far.

My last interval was with Mobil 1 EP 15w50 during the summer. I got 0.3 insoluable count after 4500 miles and blackstone recommended to resample in another 2000 miles at 6500 miles and the TBN was at 4.9, things looked excellent then with nothing to indicate that 8,000 or more would be a problem. I think that the insoluables was either a fluke or due to the Delo or Chevron Supreme. I do drive hard so that could have been a possibility. The 6,003 mile interval before that also had a 0.3 insoluable percentage as well if that means anything. This was with the same oil filters coming from the same box of 12 that I have.

If it weren't for the insoluables what would you think? I am really thinking it was a fluke. Keep in mind I am running Pennzoil Platinum(Group III) and not Group II+ like last time. At least I am pretty sure it is the Group III, it doesn't say "Adaptive Molecules" on the bottle like the new ones but rather the "Time-released" advertising, but I'll just assume group III.
 
Wait until Spring. You appear to do 18k+/- a year. Do ONE 6 month OCI with a synth in the weight of your choice. You may consider 5w-40 RTS, as was suggested, to see if consumption issues can be contained. Not only may the weight suit your consumption profile, but it's also a relatively cheap synth. Do a UOA in the Fall. You're not going to destroy the engine over one OCI. For this OCI you purchase a premium filter to see if it impacts insolubles to the required/preferred level. Whether it does or not, continue to use up current stock and replace with premium filters as inventory is exhausted.

If that Summer UOA looks decent, you then do a UOA on your winter OCI. If it looks not so good ..but just a little long, you bias the "bi-annual" OCI with a shorter time for the winter interval. 6/6 7/5 8/4.

You may find that you're going to need 4 month OCIs ..which would make me want to ditch the synth except for the winter one.
 
Gary, I like your plan. It seems a bit odd that the insoluables was high but I like the prospect of 6 month intervals, which would average 10,000 miles. I got the car last January and have driven it for about 20,000 miles now. I agree that winter driving should warranty the shorter interval and it makes sense to keep the winter interval to be shorter which was probably the cause of the higher iron level during the first UOA. I will be driving down to Nevada next summer for Burning Man and back which will be a bit less than a 4,000 mile trip in late August so the prospect of running 24,000 miles in the year tips me to running three intervals at roughly 8,000 miles.

I agree about the synth only in the winter which has been the plan.

Thanks for the advice so far!
 
As far as the viscosity goes, I had the same thing happen in my 93 Saab 9000. Two UOA's at about 3k miles verified that it had gone down to a 30W, like you. I wonder if its just a property of Delo oil. Otherwise, my UAOs were good, with very little wear metals.
 
With the camshaft design of the 4AFE and 7AFE engines, I'd expect them to shear down straight 40 weight synthetic! The exhaust cam drives the intake cam via meshed helical gears that sit in the oil that pools on the top of the cylinder head. Egg beater baby!
 
Wow, Look at that!!! M1 15W50 in an I4 with no signs of damage or exseive wear metals. I think I would not worry about the Auto-Rx if you are already useing LC. I do not think that your plan has any problems. Nothing wrong with useing affordable HDEO in a 15W40 dureing the warm months and a thiner synthetic dureing the winter. I would at least try a synthetic 5W40 like RTS 5W40 though and see how consuption goes. If it lessens with RTS5W40 I would consider it for year round use.
 
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Wow, Look at that!!! M1 15W50 in an I4 with no signs of damage or exseive wear metals.





But with 3 quarts of 5w30 as makeup, this interval is not really a true representation of the thicker oil at all. In fact it might as well be considered a UOA for Chevron 5w30!
 
Have I got the note right - you are using up a case of 1993
purolator filters? Is so look no further for insolubles sieve failure.
 
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