Decision Time, Would like some input from the forum

Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
439
Location
Central Pennsylvania
History: I've been driving only Hondas (Civics mostly) for the last 30 or so years, whenever Honda switched to 0W-20, I went to Mobil1 0W-20 AFE and their M110 filters, usually changing between 5-6K/miles, never had an issue, Blackstone UOA'S were always predictably excellent. Now, we have 2 2020 CRV'S, mine is has about 14K on it, just did a UOA and it was ok, but the Fuel % was 1.3 and the SUS and cSt viscosities were below value. Wear metals were also a bit higher that average overall. Apparently the CRV is a bit harder on oil than the Civic, but both use, essentially, the same engine, but the CRV has higher output, and a heavier car. Considering some changes, and as the M110A filters have changed manufacturers and are, probably, somewhat lessened in quality, am considering either the WIX 57356XP or NAPA 47356 (believe these are the same). Also considering changing to Mobil1 0W-20 EP, also have been looking at Penzoil Platinum and Platinum Plus (hard to find locally) as well, but have heard about some NOAC value issues with them. So, it's change time. I'd appreciate any opinions based on experience, my inclination is to try the Mobil1 EP and either of the WIX made premium-level filters. You collective wisdom and experience over the years has been very appreciated. I'm sure these are common questions, so, flame suit on, fire away!
 
Filter wise I'd use a regular WIX (Napa Gold), or a Fram Ultra(or AAP Fram Titanium), The Wix XP(Napa Platinum) have a pretty low efficiency compared to the regular Wix or Fram Ultra. The 1.5T is infamous for being a fuel dilluter, the only way to counter it is using a higher viscosity that won't be affected as much or changing the oil more often. I'd cut your OCI back to 5k and use whatever's cheap like Walmart's Supertech, or whatever you can get a rebate on like right now Mobil 1 EP has a $15 mail in on up to 2 jugs, so that's like $10/jug at Walmart's price.
 
Your CRV are turbo charged, those are hard on oil. The CRV is also known for oil dilution. Honda as either recalled or put out a TSB for this issue in cold climate states. That engine is what keeps me from buying another Honda. I'm a life long Honda owner.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the M110 filter. It has higher surface area than most.

Good luck with your oil choices.
 
Your CRV are turbo charged, those are hard on oil. The CRV is also known for oil dilution. Honda as either recalled or put out a TSB for this issue in cold climate states. That engine is what keeps me from buying another Honda. I'm a life long Honda owner.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the M110 filter. It has higher surface area than most.

Good luck with your oil choices.
There was a lot of controversy over the OD in the 1.5t, the TSB's were on the 2016-early 2019's supposedly the problem was put to rest. OD in my 19 Civic Touring and was always .5% or less, so this UOA surprised me. My inclination is to go to the M1 EP and stay with the M110A filters but go to 4-5k intervals. Honda used to have two filters, the 01 was made by Filtech and was quite good, if still available, I'd use them. They dropped the 01 and kept the 02 which is made by Fram and when dissected, is kinda crappy looking, undoubtedly acceptable, Honda uses them to service engines with warranties, but I grew up in the "Orange can of death" era and have difficulties using Fram products. Really love our Hondas.
 
There was a lot of controversy over the OD in the 1.5t, the TSB's were on the 2016-early 2019's supposedly the problem was put to rest. OD in my 19 Civic Touring and was always .5% or less, so this UOA surprised me. My inclination is to go to the M1 EP and stay with the M110A filters but go to 4-5k intervals. Honda used to have two filters, the 01 was made by Filtech and was quite good, if still available, I'd use them. They dropped the 01 and kept the 02 which is made by Fram and when dissected, is kinda crappy looking, undoubtedly acceptable, Honda uses them to service engines with warranties, but I grew up in the "Orange can of death" era and have difficulties using Fram products. Really love our Hondas.
My dad has a 17 CRV, TSB def did not fix the problem. It's the design of the engine, it never heats up esp at idle and that's what allows the gas with it's high psi injecting to blow by the rings.
 
Mine has either had Castrol Edge or now Kendall GT-1 Max and a Fram Ultra. With them raising prices on GT-1 though it’s almost the same cost as Edge or EP. I still have 8 qts in the case and 6 of those go to the new Odyssey we just got this week so the next CRV oil change will prob be Castrol Edge again.
 
History: I've been driving only Hondas (Civics mostly) for the last 30 or so years, whenever Honda switched to 0W-20, I went to Mobil1 0W-20 AFE and their M110 filters, usually changing between 5-6K/miles, never had an issue, Blackstone UOA'S were always predictably excellent. Now, we have 2 2020 CRV'S, mine is has about 14K on it, just did a UOA and it was ok, but the Fuel % was 1.3 and the SUS and cSt viscosities were below value. Wear metals were also a bit higher that average overall. Apparently the CRV is a bit harder on oil than the Civic, but both use, essentially, the same engine, but the CRV has higher output, and a heavier car. Considering some changes, and as the M110A filters have changed manufacturers and are, probably, somewhat lessened in quality, am considering either the WIX 57356XP or NAPA 47356 (believe these are the same). Also considering changing to Mobil1 0W-20 EP, also have been looking at Penzoil Platinum and Platinum Plus (hard to find locally) as well, but have heard about some NOAC value issues with them. So, it's change time. I'd appreciate any opinions based on experience, my inclination is to try the Mobil1 EP and either of the WIX made premium-level filters. You collective wisdom and experience over the years has been very appreciated. I'm sure these are common questions, so, flame suit on, fire away!
What’s NOAC?
 
My dad has a 17 CRV, TSB def did not fix the problem. It's the design of the engine, it never heats up esp at idle and that's what allows the gas with it's high psi injecting to blow by the rings.
When I got my first 1.5t (2016 Civic EX-L Coupe) I was advised by my mechanic (Honda Master Certified) to minimize idling/warmup, avoid short trips and try to get some highway miles to get the oil temperatures up as often as possible. Never had a problem and ran 5k change intervals. You're correct, small displacement Turbocharged DI engines have this as an inherent issue. The new ILSAC GF-6A oils should help with this, one of the things mentioned is better ring sealing. There's many 1.5t's with 200k or more miles out there. Understanding the issues helps with being pro-active with them. Honda is dealing with at least 3 demons here, the EPA, mileage and adequate power. The only real complaint I have with my 2020 CRV EX-L is it's slow to deliver heat until fully warmed up and trying to defrost until it is, is, well, difficult.
 
When I got my first 1.5t (2016 Civic EX-L Coupe) I was advised by my mechanic (Honda Master Certified) to minimize idling/warmup, avoid short trips and try to get some highway miles to get the oil temperatures up as often as possible. Never had a problem and ran 5k change intervals. You're correct, small displacement Turbocharged DI engines have this as an inherent issue. The new ILSAC GF-6A oils should help with this, one of the things mentioned is better ring sealing. There's many 1.5t's with 200k or more miles out there. Understanding the issues helps with being pro-active with them. Honda is dealing with at least 3 demons here, the EPA, mileage and adequate power. The only real complaint I have with my 2020 CRV EX-L is it's slow to deliver heat until fully warmed up and trying to defrost until it is, is, well, difficult.
Amen to everything said.
 
Filter wise I'd use a regular WIX (Napa Gold), or a Fram Ultra(or AAP Fram Titanium), The Wix XP(Napa Platinum) have a pretty low efficiency compared to the regular Wix or Fram Ultra. The 1.5T is infamous for being a fuel dilluter, the only way to counter it is using a higher viscosity that won't be affected as much or changing the oil more often. I'd cut your OCI back to 5k and use whatever's cheap like Walmart's Supertech, or whatever you can get a rebate on like right now Mobil 1 EP has a $15 mail in on up to 2 jugs, so that's like $10/jug at Walmart's price.
Appreciate the filter insight, any thoughts on the M1 0W20 AP vs the M1 0W20 AFE in regards to thinning out of grade? Thought about trying the AP and doing a UOA at 4k. Having been a Mobil1 customer for many years, not familiar with the Pennsoil product family.
 
History: I've been driving only Hondas (Civics mostly) for the last 30 or so years, whenever Honda switched to 0W-20, I went to Mobil1 0W-20 AFE and their M110 filters, usually changing between 5-6K/miles, never had an issue, Blackstone UOA'S were always predictably excellent. Now, we have 2 2020 CRV'S, mine is has about 14K on it, just did a UOA and it was ok, but the Fuel % was 1.3 and the SUS and cSt viscosities were below value. Wear metals were also a bit higher that average overall. Apparently the CRV is a bit harder on oil than the Civic, but both use, essentially, the same engine, but the CRV has higher output, and a heavier car. Considering some changes, and as the M110A filters have changed manufacturers and are, probably, somewhat lessened in quality, am considering either the WIX 57356XP or NAPA 47356 (believe these are the same). Also considering changing to Mobil1 0W-20 EP, also have been looking at Penzoil Platinum and Platinum Plus (hard to find locally) as well, but have heard about some NOAC value issues with them. So, it's change time. I'd appreciate any opinions based on experience, my inclination is to try the Mobil1 EP and either of the WIX made premium-level filters. You collective wisdom and experience over the years has been very appreciated. I'm sure these are common questions, so, flame suit on, fire away!
If I had a fuel diluting T-GDI engine (I actually have a fuel diluting GDI engine), I would run Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30. I am actually running that in the 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport. It's a very well-formulated oil that will stand up to fuel dilution by maintaining its viscosity. It won't maintain that sky-high flashpoint of 245C (ASTM 93 nonetheless) forever, but it will far well through your OCI. You can beat yourself up all day over the various versions of 0W-20. None of them do well when fuel is mixed in.
 
Appreciate the filter insight, any thoughts on the M1 0W20 AP vs the M1 0W20 AFE in regards to thinning out of grade? Thought about trying the AP and doing a UOA at 4k. Having been a Mobil1 customer for many years, not familiar with the Pennsoil product family.
Thinning out of grade due to fuel dilution is a function of the grade. If that's what you're worried about then use a higher grade oil.
 
Hi! Newer gdi and other direct injected motors dilute massive amounts of fuel into oil. But it is quite a feature, and no Honda would be damaged by that :)
Oil can loose 2 or 3 CST at 100°C in a gasoline motor, since it's still far higher than 5 cst, it won't hurt anything.

Keep OCI around 7 or 8 000 miles, it will be fine!

Well, if you plan to keep the car more than 200 000 miles, maybe a 5w-30 2.9 hths oil could help, maybe not...
 
Back
Top