Data/Opinions on Walmart SuperTech Full Synthetic?

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Sep 7, 2002
Ladysmith, Wisconsin
Just wondering if anyone had any opinions on the SuperTech Full Synthetic 10w30 oil sold at Wal Mart? It is $2.97/quart so I am thinking about using it in my daily driver instead of Valvoline MaxLife (the car only has 45,000 miles on it).

Would it just be better to use a good dyno oil or would this low end synthetic be better?

Don't know about the quality etc. but I have used it in my lawn mower. It pours like water, ran okay but it seemed pretty thin to me.
I don't know what the additives are. I recommend an analysis when you change it to verify its performance in your engine.

Additives differentiate most oils. The base oils are, within the type and viscosity, usually similar.

The major exceptions are the Group III vs. Group IV/V synthetics. Dinos are usually Group II or II+. The exception to that is Mobil dino which uses Group I.

The oil companies also change formulations (additives, base oil) without any notice. Good luck with Supertech.

[ September 09, 2002, 10:29 AM: Message edited by: jjbula ]
I posted the same question on 10 Aug, and you can review the responses. Interesting find, I just changed mine in the Expedition yesterday and found Pennzoil Syn for $3.34 from its normal $4.20. at the local Wal-Mart here in West palm Beach.
Honestly, all of the group 3 synthetics like this one are overpriced, and you can get similar results from a conventional oil at much lower prices.

BTW, welcome aboard Intelman, my fellow f-body friend!

Intelman34, have you checked to see if your Walmart carries Mobil 1 in the 5 quart jugs? Most Walmarts carry them for $17.88, which is $3.58 a quart. -Joe
Another point worth mentioning is that you end up saving more money running a PAO/ester based synthetic vs the group 3 based ones. That's because a group 3 based synthetic really isn't good much past 5-6k, while a synthetic with a PAO/ester base will go much longer.

So you might spend a dollar or two more per quart, but you'll also be able to pretty much double your intervals compared to the group 3 based oils.
Wow! Thanks for all of the replies! Sorry if this was a double post. I guess I should have dug around first.

My Wal-Mart does carry Mobil 1 in 5qt jugs for $17.88. I just bought one (plus another quart) to put in my Camaro as "cheap" stuff to run for 500 miles after my cam install. I didnt want to waste my Redline for only 500 miles. But anyways, I guess that is a good breakdown. A couple bucks more and I can run top quality synthetic instead of a no name one.

I change my oil around 2500-3000 miles no matter what is in the car so drain intervals dont really matter to me.

I only leave Redline in my Camaro for 5,000 becuase they say it gets better with more miles and I have an AC Delco UPF1218 filter that has to keep it somewhat clean

But overall would you suggest using Valvoline Max Life or Mobil 1 in my Chrysler Cirrus (1995 with only 45,000 miles)? I just want it to last as long as possible without spending the money for a Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline.

Thanks again for all the help!
When Maxlife had moly in it, that oil was a great bargain, but now that it doesn't have it, it's just another so so oil. I will have another oil analysis with Maxlife at 3300 miles later this week, so we'll see how this one stacks up. My last one wasn't too impressive, it showed 40% oxidation in just 2300 miles, and iron and lead content was a bit higher than it should be.
Patman,I don't think if the Maxlife did have Moly it would have helped the oxidation? Do you think it would have? Probably would lowered wear metals,for the life of the oil which seems short in that motor
Please refesh my memory,what base oil is the Maxlife?

Intelman,I think you made a good decision going with the 5 quart jug of SS as opposed to the other oil,3k mile intervals though with that oil seems excessive unless raced alot

[ September 10, 2002, 08:45 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
You're probably right, the oxidation wouldn't have changed with the addition of moly. We'll see if the oxidation changes on this next analysis though (due this week!) since Auto-rx probably cleaned my engine enough that this last batch of Maxlife didn't have to work so hard and wouldn't oxidize so fast either.

As far as the base oil in Maxlife, it's still a bit of a mystery. Johnny posted this a while back, which was about the first formula of Maxlife:


One of my best friends was one of the chemist that designed MaxLife. (I will
not disclose his name because I do not want him to get fired, and I do not
want to lose a good friend and fishing buddy) This is what he told me about
MaxLife: It is made from a Group II basestock just as the regular Valvoline
oil is. It has basically the same additive package as the regular Valvoline
except for the small amount of Moly Disulfide added to it. It also has
around 9% ester base added to it for it's seal conditioning factors.
He explained to me (his words) that when you look at the MaxLife spec sheet
and see where it says 12%-22%, it is refering to the entire additive
package, including the esters.
He also told me that in Europe, they sell MaxLife as a blend. It is a blend
of Group II and esters, with the esters being around 17%, and it also has
the Moly Disulfide in it.
Now, he did not put this in writing to me, nor would I ask him to. There are
all kinds of opinions of what this product is, but I will take his word for
it, since he helped to design it.

Not sure if it's still the same base oil now though.
Pennzoil didn't send me a spec. sheet for SuperTech syn, only dino. Someone (maybe Bottgers) did post a spec. on Edmunds which I reposted here. If memory serves me right, the specs. on the SuperTech syn. don't look a lot better than Chevron dino. It is, however, probably as good as several name brand group III's out there.

I agree with others that the choice should be between dino. and fully synthetic. Group III's and (especially non-Schaeffer) blends seem over priced.

[ September 11, 2002, 03:21 PM: Message edited by: csandste ]

Originally posted by Patman:
a group 3 based synthetic really isn't good much past 5-6k, while a synthetic with a PAO/ester base will go much longer.

I'm about to do analysis at 6K on my Group III and I bet it looks good enough to go longer. Are you sure about Group III not lasting to 8-10K? Maybe we should put a bet on it.
Based on the oil analysis I've seen on Syntec, and a couple of other group threes, I find it hard to believe they could handle 10k drains. It would be rare.
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