dash brake light 2001 camry

[survivorgrampy]

Dash brake light won't go off.I used the hand brake one time while in N.C. and now the brake light shows but not all the time. It does not seem to affect the driving. Checked the fluid and looks full no leaks that I can see. I thought maybe the cable may just need to be lubed but not sure. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Thanks

 

[atikovi]

Switch in/under handbrake lever sticking or contacts inside crusty.

 

[mk378]

Unplug the sensor on the fluid reservoir-- if the light stays on it would be the switch on the parking brake lever.

If light goes out with sensor unplugged yet the fluid is full, the sensor is bad.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Looks full? It either is full or it isn't. So, you need to remove the cap and shine a flashlight into it, from the sides/top, and verify the level. MC's on a 20 year old vehicle aren't clear enough to glance at from a distance, and will usually have enough crud coating the plastic that mimics a level.

My MC doesn't look full. It is full.

So, start from scratch. Verify the level with some attention to detail.

And, you should be using the parking brake every time you park.

Post #2 and #3 have some simple troubleshooting. If those posts, and verifying full MC level, and checking for burnt out brake light bulbs doesn't help, then you'll have to dig deeper into your braking system.

I don't have that generation Camry anymore. Vaguely remember a failing battery and alternator setting off the brake light too, which threw me off since my brakes are inspected at each rotation, and my fluids/bulbs checked at every oil change. And then, the car died and problem disappeared with new alternator/battery. But, MC float sensor failure on poorly maintained brake systems is common as are the parking brake switch that is covered in ketchup, soda, coffee, frenchfries, and beer.

And because low brake fluid level announces worn pads/shoes.... You'll also need to pull the wheels off for complete all around brake inspection.

 

[supton]

I had to top the mc off to full full full after one brake flush, as the light would not go off. That is for my ‘99 Camry.

 

[Greasymechtech]

And if ABS, don't forget the wheel speed sensors and ABS solenoid system.

 

[atikovi]

Looks full? It either is full or it isn't. So, you need to remove the cap and shine a flashlight into it, from the sides/top, and verify the level. MC's on a 20 year old vehicle aren't clear enough to glance at from a distance, and will usually have enough crud coating the plastic that mimics a level.

How about on a 37 year old one?

 

[supton]

How about on a 37 year old one?

View attachment 135454

Lucky you. My 24 year old one is more dark than that.

On the good side, the cheapo ST brake fluid turns green pretty quickly, so it makes for good contrast, so I have that going for me.

 

[atikovi]

You just have to clean it out and then change fluid regularly.

 

[Greasymechtech]

On the good side, the cheapo ST brake fluid turns green pretty quickly, so it makes for good contrast, so I have that going for me.

Green from moisture related algae growth or excessive copper corrosion?

If my brake fluid turned colors, I wouldn't use that brand again.

 

[supton]

You just have to clean it out and then change fluid regularly.

Clean it out how? Remove and put into the dishwasher?

When I did the brake flush I don't think the mc had been touched in 17 years... no idea, the car was new to me. TBH I haven't touched it in a couple of years, it's about due for a flush, however I'm amazed at how fast both Prestone and ST brake fluid turns green, while ancient decade old brake fluid just looks a bit brown.

Green from moisture related algae growth or excessive copper corrosion?

If my brake fluid turned colors, I wouldn't use that brand again.

No idea. I recall seeing green fluid on a prior car too. This one, it's 24 years old, but, it's not like the fluid circulates, so the green fluid in the master is from... ? Supertech and Prestone. I've kinda backed off from running brake fluid since, but TBH this whole pandemic tossed a wrench into my wrenching, and i'm only getting back to doing things on a regular basis again.

 

[atikovi]

Clean it out how? Remove and put into the dishwasher?

I use a few squirts of degreaser, Meguairs Super Degreaser and a little bit of hot water, then add a handful of BBs or stainless steel beads. Replace cap, hold fingers over opening, then shake shake shake. Rinse out with hot water and let dry or blow out with hair drier.

 

[supton]

I use a few squirts of degreaser, Meguairs Super Degreaser and a little bit of hot water, then add a handful of BBs or stainless steel beads. Replace cap, hold fingers over opening, then shake shake shake. Rinse out with hot water and let dry or blow out with hair drier.

Not sure I'll go that far, but thanks for the info.

 

[Greasymechtech]

The fluid circulates in a up down motion, and not in a loop. 1000's of applications of the brake pedal every year keeps the fluid will mixed.

Sure, you can pull the reservoir off and either replace it, or toss it in the dishwasher too. Cleaning a master cylinder reservoir isn't rocket science and requires removing the reservoir, which is beyond the capability of too many, as is a proper bleed, or simple brake maintenance. So, I am not going to recommend it for the foolish masses.

Siphon/refill your master cylinder at every oil change. If your brake fluid is green, consider once every weekend until you don't see any more green. Use a quality brake fluid. It'll slow clean itself. And, if you haven't in a while, after several siphon/refills of the MC, consider a full 2 man brake bleed... 4 ounces out of each bleeder all around, and repeat another 4 ounces. Obviously, after every pad/shoe or component replacement, bleed thoroughly too. Don't be a hack.

I'd even consider replacing the degraded cap that might be leaking 'humidity' into your master cylinder.

There are plenty of good DOT3 brake fluids at your local walmart and autopart store. Use Gunk, Prestone, Valvoline, Lucas....
If your budget allows, grab the DOT3 from the dealer, like Honda, Toyota, or GM. I have Honda brake fluid in my Toyotas, Hyundai, and Kia, Motorcraft in my Mazda, and GM brake fluid in my VW. Plain ol' DOT3 in the entire fleet and have no need for imported, colored, boutique brands, or BS.

None of my brake/clutch fluid reservoirs are green. Color change is a failure. You could use copper or moisture testers to see if either can pinpoint the problem. I would say its start with neglect and continues with inaction.

 

[supton]

Color change is a failure. You could use copper or moisture testers to see if either can pinpoint the problem. I would say its start with neglect and continues with inaction.

At this age I'm going with failure, and at this age inaction is the name of the game. Wait until something breaks, then I'll know what needs to be replaced. Assuming it's worth fixing.

I'll see if the bleeders will open this spring, when it's time to lube the brakes, and do a flush then. I don't think I've done it for the last couple of years, TBH. Was trying to do it at least once a year, got behind on things. My luck, since I recall replacing the calipers a couple years ago, the bleeders are now stuck. Bet I don't have that receipt anymore for AZ. My recollection is, when I first did a flush, what came out was green, and it just has stayed that way since.

 

[Paco Pena]

Is the parking brake dragging a bit? the cable can get rusty and stick if it rarely gets used or gets rusty.

Paco