New to us Suburu 2020 Crosstrek, 8500 miles. This is more of a general question about it's cvt. I've looked at videos of how they work, but as an old school mechanical guy-I can't wrap my head around how the chain does not wear (much?) while rubbing between the metal pulleys, and how they grip while in the fluid bath? I'm familiar with the torque converters with belts on small go carts and such, and those belts do wear. Thanks for any replies.
CVT chain slip?
- Thread starter rekit
- Start date
The torque converter on your Subaru's CVT does the slipping, just like in any automatic transmission.
If the chain does slip on a CVT, it will gouge/score up the precision finish on the belt sheaves, which leads to exponentially more slippage, wear, etc..
The CVT fluid and the materials the contact points on the chain and sheaves are made of do the gripping, along with hydraulic pressure.
If the chain does slip on a CVT, it will gouge/score up the precision finish on the belt sheaves, which leads to exponentially more slippage, wear, etc..
The CVT fluid and the materials the contact points on the chain and sheaves are made of do the gripping, along with hydraulic pressure.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 5,058
JTK had a very good explanation with few words. I would have the same difficulty wraping my head around it with the same thought process you had if it weren't for a 2008 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 I had. Certainly not as complex as a modern CVT but the basic principle was easier to gain some understanding.
Also, the Subaru AWD system is bathing in the CVT fluid as well. Another point that makes me cringe when I hear "lifetime" fluid. I'm at nearly 100k on my 17 OB with 3.6 and CVT. I did a drain/fill at 70k and plan on another service at 100k.
Also, the Subaru AWD system is bathing in the CVT fluid as well. Another point that makes me cringe when I hear "lifetime" fluid. I'm at nearly 100k on my 17 OB with 3.6 and CVT. I did a drain/fill at 70k and plan on another service at 100k.
That's the nice thing about snowmobile, golf cart and UTV CVTs with rubber belts. There's no magical fluids or wear surfaces. The belt is the wear item and can be relatively easily replaced.
On an automotive metal band or chain CVT, if it does slip, the whole CVT will eventually be toast.
On a conventional planetary gear or sliding gear set automatic, where clutch packs do the power transfer, the clutch packs are built to endure some slippage.
On an automotive metal band or chain CVT, if it does slip, the whole CVT will eventually be toast.
On a conventional planetary gear or sliding gear set automatic, where clutch packs do the power transfer, the clutch packs are built to endure some slippage.
WDN-might I ask what that change cost if at the Stealership? We bought ours used at Sub of Clear Lake in Houston and we bought an extended warranty. I know i can change the engine oil, but really don't want to give them an out-I want to get the oil change at the dealer too if I can stomach it. I will be marking stuff. I read where you can hold the go pedal down all the way and turn it over to prime the oil filter, doubt if they will do that. (upside down filter way on top)
The dealership charged around $200 something to use genuine SUBARU CVTF-II. Maybe they give him a break because he’s a veteran. That is here in New Hampshire. If you bought an extended warranty a/k/a a service contract though they can and will void it regarding CVT problems unless you used genuine SUBARU fluid. Read the fine print carefully. It would never cross my mind to use anything but Subaru fluid in a Lineartronic CVT.
Similar threads
