What Trav said! No need IMO to buy more grease.
If you need and tips advise or get stuck post a pic of the bit you are stuck on and we will help.
If you need and tips advise or get stuck post a pic of the bit you are stuck on and we will help.
CV Boots leaking, what course of action?
- Thread starter Daverino
- Start date
Is there any concern about sand ? I would want as little sand in my CV grease as reasonably possible.
A little late, but if you ever want to go OEM but can't afford OEM, you might check these guys out:
www.cvjreman.com
9550 Archives - CVJ Axles
www.cvjreman.com
This is very timely...I found the same problem on my 09 Camry, just the other end of the boot. It has started to tear from the clamp. I've used some generic kits in the past, but wasn't a fan of them. Sounds like a Toyota direct replacement is the best bet.
As long as the boot is not torn open like the one on the OP's and driven for any length of time probably not, if it is torn and you live in a desert area all bets are off.
Just did a set of boots on a ‘98 Sienna. Used Toyota OE boots. Piece of cake (once you get the axles out). Far cheaper than rebuilt junk. Took some time/labor so, I see why shops don’t do it, but it’s the right way to go.
I replaced both inner cv boots found split on a ‘06 Outback with 75k miles at the time. I selected silicone vs. neoprene and the kit was a universal cut to fit style which unfortunately not the way I wanted to go. But 4 years later, no issues.
For my application and research, very few posters or videos suggested aftermarket axles and strongly suggested rebooting because of Subaru’s finicky tolerance and fit up with non OEM axles so that’s how I proceeded heeding their warnings. Maybe Toyota’s are more forgiving if you rather replace the axle with aftermarket.
For my application and research, very few posters or videos suggested aftermarket axles and strongly suggested rebooting because of Subaru’s finicky tolerance and fit up with non OEM axles so that’s how I proceeded heeding their warnings. Maybe Toyota’s are more forgiving if you rather replace the axle with aftermarket.
I'd reboot a factory axle, even an imperfect one every time over a parts store rebuild.
Hint, when rebooting I try to keep all the components in the same spot, if they aren't made so that they will only go together one way...
Hint, when rebooting I try to keep all the components in the same spot, if they aren't made so that they will only go together one way...
@Daverino, I bought both these tools on @Trav's recommendation for a CV joint replacement I did a few months ago. Both tools worked perfectly.
Not sure where you are, but I got the axle popper from Canadian Tire - it's a much better design than the Mazda SST as shown in the factory service manual - it eliminates the stress on the transmission case. I wrote a positive review for the CT site, and saw that unfortunately the tool is no longer available.
Got the Lisle band crimper from Rock Auto. It too is an excellent tool.
Can’t feel any tears or cracks? I can see in the pic where it’s torn.There is a leak in the CV Boots of my new to me 2007 Toyota Sequoia with 214,000 miles on it. It was mainly driven on the highway in Texas, if that makes any difference to the possibility of contamination of the axles.
I have already read on here about the idea that OEM axles and boots are superior and will be the only thing I use. But Redline CV grease looks appealing if buying separately.
I cannot see or feel any tears or cracks in the boots themselves. I do not hear any obvious signs of wear in the axles. When moving the axles by hand there is no obvious play.
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What, if anything, should I do about this?
1. Leave it alone?
2. Buy some new hose clamps and just slip them on?
3. New hose clamps plus squirt in new grease? Should I try to clean out the old grease and pack in all new with the axles still on the car?
4. Replace the boots as they are about 15 years old with 214,000 miles on them? I have never done this before, but I have loosened the one of the axles so I know it isn't stuck to the hub.
Any advice and opinions are greatly appreciated, thank you!
View attachment 63913
Sorry for the late reply. I have been working on this frantically for the past few days. I finally got it done but there were more than a few touch and go moments.
I did buy the Lisle boot pliers. They worked great, although I did use a rubber mallet to get as much crimp on there as I could. I could not understand why only one clamp was a different type or how it worked. But a lot of googling led to me to understand that they are Oetiker low profile clamps and I was able to use the Lisle 30800 CV boot pliers in an ad hoc fashion to close the clamp.
The Lisle 44900 Lock ring plier something that I would also recommend to have on hand for the transmission style snap ring that separates the axle. It's made in the USA for less than the Chinese junk on Amazon which is weird. I had tried to use a snap ring plier for this job, and the bits snapped off. I do recommend not trying that. I had to order the Lisle pliers overnight as I was stuck at that point.
The passenger side axle took a couple days of pounding to get out of the differential. That big tuning fork looking axle popper kit would have been put to use for sure. I ordered some Wilde pry bars from Harry Epstein which are still coming, but I did get it out on the last attempt.
I chose not to disassemble the axles completely. I have never done any of this before and that was a bridge too far honestly. I wiped as much as I could with paper towels. I used 3-5 rolls worth until the wiping was mostly clean but it took hours. I did try dish soapy water, but it was more hassle than it helped. I stained my plastic utility sink with even that minor attempt. I did not try any solvents or gasoline as I read to not do that. I should have asked and dug deeper into that, as the paper towel method took a long time.
The CV boots that came on the car looked and felt identical to the ones I put on. So I am hoping for another 214,000 miles and 15 years without any leaks. The old grease in the driver's side looked very similar to the new stuff, just less. The passenger side grease was much runnier however. Some water may have gotten in there.
The axles had a hard time going back in, so I ended up sanding the locking ring that goes into the differential with some 600 grit sand paper. There was marring on them both and I just made them a little smoother, they went in like I saw on youtube videos after that.
While I was doing the CV Boots I also put new Bilstein shocks on the front, swapping the springs out was a major pain. I went with KYB for new top hats, and they turned out to be Chinese made which surprised me, OEM is much more expensive though so I don't know what I do if I had to do it over again. New front sway bar end links from Sankei 555 (Japan), front sway bar bushings (Moog; USA), rear sway bar bushings (AC Delco Professional; Korea), new rear diff fluid (AMSOIL 75w140), transfer case (AMSOIL 80w90), and front diff (AMSOIL 80w90). I also tried to grease the U joints and driveshaft, but the seals on one of the u joints just crumbled. Not sure what to do about that yet.
Thank you to everyone who replied with advice and tips. You guys individually make for an amazing community on here!
I did buy the Lisle boot pliers. They worked great, although I did use a rubber mallet to get as much crimp on there as I could. I could not understand why only one clamp was a different type or how it worked. But a lot of googling led to me to understand that they are Oetiker low profile clamps and I was able to use the Lisle 30800 CV boot pliers in an ad hoc fashion to close the clamp.
The Lisle 44900 Lock ring plier something that I would also recommend to have on hand for the transmission style snap ring that separates the axle. It's made in the USA for less than the Chinese junk on Amazon which is weird. I had tried to use a snap ring plier for this job, and the bits snapped off. I do recommend not trying that. I had to order the Lisle pliers overnight as I was stuck at that point.
The passenger side axle took a couple days of pounding to get out of the differential. That big tuning fork looking axle popper kit would have been put to use for sure. I ordered some Wilde pry bars from Harry Epstein which are still coming, but I did get it out on the last attempt.
I chose not to disassemble the axles completely. I have never done any of this before and that was a bridge too far honestly. I wiped as much as I could with paper towels. I used 3-5 rolls worth until the wiping was mostly clean but it took hours. I did try dish soapy water, but it was more hassle than it helped. I stained my plastic utility sink with even that minor attempt. I did not try any solvents or gasoline as I read to not do that. I should have asked and dug deeper into that, as the paper towel method took a long time.
The CV boots that came on the car looked and felt identical to the ones I put on. So I am hoping for another 214,000 miles and 15 years without any leaks. The old grease in the driver's side looked very similar to the new stuff, just less. The passenger side grease was much runnier however. Some water may have gotten in there.
The axles had a hard time going back in, so I ended up sanding the locking ring that goes into the differential with some 600 grit sand paper. There was marring on them both and I just made them a little smoother, they went in like I saw on youtube videos after that.
While I was doing the CV Boots I also put new Bilstein shocks on the front, swapping the springs out was a major pain. I went with KYB for new top hats, and they turned out to be Chinese made which surprised me, OEM is much more expensive though so I don't know what I do if I had to do it over again. New front sway bar end links from Sankei 555 (Japan), front sway bar bushings (Moog; USA), rear sway bar bushings (AC Delco Professional; Korea), new rear diff fluid (AMSOIL 75w140), transfer case (AMSOIL 80w90), and front diff (AMSOIL 80w90). I also tried to grease the U joints and driveshaft, but the seals on one of the u joints just crumbled. Not sure what to do about that yet.
Thank you to everyone who replied with advice and tips. You guys individually make for an amazing community on here!
It's not really that hard, just really messy. Watch some vids on how to do it and definately get lots of dispoable gloves. Good band pliers are a must also. Another option is to have them rebuit by Raxles but they can be pricey.
If they aren’t clicking, new OE Toyota boot kits and call it a day. Looks like you done well.
Gimpy1; Raxles only seems to do car axles, mostly Hondas. It is funny that businesses that specialize in CV axles will further specialize by type of axles that they work on. CVJ is a company that does Toyota 4x4 axles that I have seen mentioned more than once. If the axles die any time soon I will probably go through them.
Nuthatch; No clicking or big tears or rips. Just leaking out at the edges. I cannot find any explanation for this other than old age. Here is to hoping for another 214,000 miles on them.
Nuthatch; No clicking or big tears or rips. Just leaking out at the edges. I cannot find any explanation for this other than old age. Here is to hoping for another 214,000 miles on them.
