"Cushion" of a more viscous motor oil worth it?

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Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by wemay


150c




See this is why I hate these threads, and trying to bring anything to them.

You people can't even read the charts (that I provided), then use them to "prove" your case.

The BEARINGS ARE NOT AT 150C...THATS THE POINT THAT HTHS IS MEASURED AT

For crying out loud, if you want to control your thick/thin thread, at least get your facts straight.


Do you even think/thin, bro!?
happy2.gif
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
Did they study every engine? NO

Are lots of engines running a 20wt perfectly fine for hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles under these normal circumstances? YES

What did I leave out?

Guess all those CVPI 4.6 Ford modulars that were specced for 5W20 and endured long lives of abuse (& became taxis) were right-if the engine was designed for a 20 weight, and maintained well enough, they have a pretty good chance of handling it. Now if I had a 4.6 in a pickup (or a heavily loaded & towing 3/4 ton van), I would be a little more concerned-but all of our 4.6 vans made it to the 100K lease turn-in easily on 5W20 synthetic blend with ZERO issues.
 
There will always be poorly engineered engines and back peddling on the spec'ed oil. But this isn't the Majority but rather the Minority and the only reason the thicker weight might be back spec'ed is as a band-aid.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
There will always be poorly engineered engines and back peddling on the spec'ed oil. But this isn't the Majority but rather the Minority and the only reason the thicker weight might be back spec'ed is as a band-aid.



Agreed.
 
It has been mentioned many times but run the grade of oil that meets not only the engine specs but all meets the demands you place on that engine.

A light duty commuter can run 20wt with no problems. Towing a trailer or hauling gravel in a pickup? Move up a grade.


It's the bickering and trying to tell people their engines will blow up if they run the wrong grade that gets annoying here. It's all hogwash.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
It has been mentioned many times but run the grade of oil that meets not only the engine specs but all meets the demands you place on that engine.

A light duty commuter can run 20wt with no problems. Towing a trailer or hauling gravel in a pickup? Move up a grade.


It's the bickering and trying to tell people their engines will blow up if they run the wrong grade that gets annoying here. It's all hogwash.


Well put, and Thank You
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
It has been mentioned many times but run the grade of oil that meets not only the engine specs but all meets the demands you place on that engine.

A light duty commuter can run 20wt with no problems. Towing a trailer or hauling gravel in a pickup? Move up a grade.


It's the bickering and trying to tell people their engines will blow up if they run the wrong grade that gets annoying here. It's all hogwash.


Well put.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
It's the bickering and trying to tell people their engines will blow up if they run the wrong grade that gets annoying here. It's all hogwash.


I don't recall anyone saying the engine will "blow up" if using a grade not specified by the manufacturer - or using a 5W-20 or thinner. The debate is the possible wear difference between viscosity under certain operating conditions. But if someone did run a 5W-16 or a 5W-20 in a track car or under heavy use (hauling, towing, etc) without a proper oil cooling systems I'd pretty much bet there could be some greater engine wear or engine damage when the oil thins down to the point where MOFT was too thin to prevent major metal-to-metal contact.

The benign street drivers will never realize or detect (by driving the vehicle) any noticeable wear difference between engine oil viscosity if the oil temperature never exceeds 210~220 F. If a very controlled test was conducted, there could be a measurable difference in wear, as some of these test studies have shown.
 
Originally Posted by BrocLuno
... By the time you need 20W-50 for most modern engines, they have been long due for an overhaul. OTOH, for engines from the 1970's and/or the UK maybe up to the 1980's - that's not an overly thick oil.
I have a 1962 Chevrolet owner's manual, which effectively says any multi-grade oil thicker than 10W-30 was overly thick. The same was probably true a few years earlier.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by PimTac
It's the bickering and trying to tell people their engines will blow up if they run the wrong grade that gets annoying here. It's all hogwash.


I don't recall anyone saying the engine will "blow up" if using a grade not specified by the manufacturer - or using a 5W-20 or thinner. The debate is the possible wear difference between viscosity under certain operating conditions. But if someone did run a 5W-16 or a 5W-20 in a track car or under heavy use (hauling, towing, etc) without a proper oil cooling systems I'd pretty much bet there could be some greater engine wear or engine damage when the oil thins down to the point where MOFT was too thin to prevent major metal-to-metal contact.

The benign street drivers will never realize or detect (by driving the vehicle) any noticeable wear difference between engine oil viscosity if the oil temperature never exceeds 210~220 F. If a very controlled test was conducted, there could be a measurable difference in wear, as some of these test studies have shown.


I think PimTac was exaggerating purposefully...
 
"I think PimTac was exaggerating purposefully..."




I was but there are a few members in which that does apply to. Those are outliers in the general discussion.
 
Wait, are you guys just going back and forth for 4 pages now without any data or proof? Lol. Unreal.

Isn't this recommendation based on a case by case scenario? Your average joe with a regular daily beater doesn't need anything special in the engine in order for it to last, unless, like many have said over and over, there's a defect or a design flaw that is causing issues, like freakin fuel dilution.

Oh, and going from a 5w20 to a 5w30 isn't "thick"
crackmeup2.gif


Thick would be going to a 15w40 or 10w60 or something.

Most of the Foregn engines in the US that spec 0w20 are being recommended 5w30 or thicker IN THEIR HOME COUNTRY by the manufacturer. This kinda tells me that the engine is simply "tolerating" the thin oil over here, as much as they try to design the engine with thin oil in mind. It's efficiency

Besides, it's quite clear that the US market is the auto industy's guinea pig in regards to "how thin can we make oil and still have the engine last past the warranty period?"

It's efficiency they are chasing after. Oil pumping loses are one tiny factor they seem to be obsessed on at the moment.
 
Is it a thing here now to attack someone you disagree with for offering "no data or proof". Then state your own opinion with not only no data, or proof, but frankly WRONG data!

If we're talking about Japanese sourced OEM's, I believe the vast majority now recommend a 0/5W-20 in the home islands. Korea? IDK And Euro manufacturers clearly have no problem mandating thicker oils in the U.S. despite the evil, green liberal CAFE monster. Who else manufactures cars we care about?..
 
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
Is it a thing here now to attack someone you disagree with for offering "no data or proof". Then state your own opinion with not only no data, or proof, but frankly WRONG data!

If we're talking about Japanese sourced OEM's, I believe the vast majority now recommend a 0/5W-20 in the home islands. Korea? IDK And Euro manufacturers clearly have no problem mandating thicker oils in the U.S. despite the evil, green liberal CAFE monster. Who else manufactures cars we care about?..


Japan has their own version of CAFE, which is even more stringent than the CAFE in the USA. I posted links about it a while ago in another thread.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
Is it a thing here now to attack someone you disagree with for offering "no data or proof". Then state your own opinion with not only no data, or proof, but frankly WRONG data!

If we're talking about Japanese sourced OEM's, I believe the vast majority now recommend a 0/5W-20 in the home islands. Korea? IDK And Euro manufacturers clearly have no problem mandating thicker oils in the U.S. despite the evil, green liberal CAFE monster. Who else manufactures cars we care about?..


Japan has their own version of CAFE, which is even more stringent that the CAFE in the USA. I posted links about it a while ago in another thread.


Which has nothing to do with my point....

But if anyone is worried about what is recommended in their Honda Accord in The Philippines, by all means...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Nickdfresh
Is it a thing here now to attack someone you disagree with for offering "no data or proof". Then state your own opinion with not only no data, or proof, but frankly WRONG data!

If we're talking about Japanese sourced OEM's, I believe the vast majority now recommend a 0/5W-20 in the home islands. Korea? IDK And Euro manufacturers clearly have no problem mandating thicker oils in the U.S. despite the evil, green liberal CAFE monster. Who else manufactures cars we care about?..


Japan has their own version of CAFE, which is even more stringent that the CAFE in the USA. I posted links about it a while ago in another thread.


Which has nothing to do with my point....

But if anyone is worried about what is recommended in their Honda Accord in The Philippines, by all means...


My response was to your comment of: "If we're talking about Japanese sourced OEM's, I believe the vast majority now recommend a 0/5W-20 in the home islands."

So to translate, the reason Japan recommends 0/5W-20 in Japan is because of the strive to meet their own "CAFE" rules.
 
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