Curing time for sealant, wax

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Here in Florida it will be around 60 degrees mid day tomorrow . Is that too cold for sealant or wax to dry properly?
 
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Wax in general is usually good to go when it has hazed over. I say in general because there are WOWO wax products. ( Wipe On Wipe Off). Those can be buffed right away. It really depends on the particular product you are using. Some sealants need to be kept dry for a period of time after applying. Some have a cure period. Some are pretty instant like the SIO2 based sealants.
 
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For wax, as long as it hazes up and a finger can remove the haze without streaks you're good to go. For sealants, it's dependent on what the label says - but 60*F is still warm. You'll be fine as long as metal and surface temps don't drop below 50*F.
 
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The other thing - 50F with sun out will make the metal warm. I've been wondering why somebody was worrying about 50F and 845, as I've put it on when the outside temp is 40 without any problem. Something I didn't think of is around here I get a full sun most of the time, and the car is probably a lot warmer than in the NE.
 
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When it dries to a haze, it is ready to buff off. It will occur slower at low temperatures. I have applied Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus at 50F many times.
 
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To me, curing time is how long it takes for the coating to set-up after it's been applied and buffed off. For sealants and waxes, this is usually 24 hours. It varies for ceramic coatings between 4 to 48 hours. In other words, it's best to not wash a car or apply a different kind of product until after the first finish product has cured. This is especially true if you're trying to build-up layers of traditional car wax (such as the Collinite paste waxes). Not long ago, I called the folks at Collinite, spoke with one of the family owners and had a nice discussion about this. I shared my observations with him and since he knows the chemical make-up of the products, he agreed completely (and actually took some notes on my techniques). Ray
 
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A few months ago and for the first time I used Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601. Which is supposed to cure the sealant as soon as it dries which is nice since the car is parked outdoors. Very easy to use since you apply it then apply the sealant on top without removing the PBA first. So just one extra step. I applied it with a cheapy WM buffer and the foam bonnet. So the PBA went on super thin. Next time I'll use the MF bonnet so the coat goes on a little thicker. Plus get a little polishing action with that combo.
 
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Originally Posted by SatinSilver
A few months ago and for the first time I used Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601. Which is supposed to cure the sealant as soon as it dries which is nice since the car is parked outdoors. Very easy to use since you apply it then apply the sealant on top without removing the PBA first. So just one extra step. I applied it with a cheapy WM buffer and the foam bonnet. So the PBA went on super thin. Next time I'll use the MF bonnet so the coat goes on a little thicker. Plus get a little polishing action with that combo.
Very interesting... Thanks for mentioning this. Ray
 
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