Couple Wive's Tales I need dispelled

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188
Location
Charleston, SC
Alright, here's my problem, I have a 96 accord with 126,000 miles on it that I have owned since 61,000 and ive used M1 10-30 in the summer and 15-50 in the winter. Changed it regularly at intervals of 3,000 to 5,000 miles, but never more. Ive considered flushing it, but ive heard that this will clean it indeed, but sludge up the oil screen/create leaks all throughout the system. Reason im considering is that the oil always seems to come out black even after only about 300-400 miles of driving, and it kinda bugs me. At the same time, ive considered changing over to RP because I can actually get the stuff cheaper than M1 because I live right near the production plant in Houston. Anyway, your expert thoughts on this would be great. Thanks [Big Grin]
 
Messages
36
Location
Brewster, NY
Why are you using 10w-30 in the summer and 15w-50 in the winter? You should be using the heavier weight oil in the summer when its hot and the lighter weight oil in the winter when its colder. Was this just a typo?
 
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47,824
Location
Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
AutoRx will clean without sludging anything up. Your first clean, should never be a "flush" type product. (Flushes have their uses, but not here). I suspect the oil getting "dirty" so soon...is either a problem with your emissions system or a true mechanical problem OR still cleaning nasties from the PO prior to 61K miles. Have you done a UOA? You really should. Then AutoRX.
 

Durrr

Thread starter
Messages
188
Location
Charleston, SC
yeah, ive been fighting with the emissions for the past 9,000 or so miles, but it got real dirty real quick even before this time period. I just ordered some ARX a second ago after seeing all the good results on higher mileage vehicles on here. We'll see how that does [Patriot] . But after that, I shouldn't have any problems switching over to RP after that, since ive cleaned out the entire system? Thanks in advance [Big Grin]
 
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7,786
Location
Oklahoma
Color doesn't mean squat. A diesel engine will turn new oil black within the first couple of hours. Hard to imagine a proper running Honda to have emission problems. See if you can get the codes read off the computer, Honda's are notorious for spitting out codes only when things are really bad. Also, before taking an emissions test, run high octane, premium, fuel in it for a couple of tanks. Don't know why your running a 15W-50 oil in the summer. Just about everyone I come across that owns a Honda/Acura is running no more than a 10W-30/5W-30. 126K is just breaking in for a Honda. I would almost suspect that the 15W-50 may be hampering your emissions, how, I don't know, just a thought.
 
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9,427
Location
Pensacola & Vero Beach FL
quote:
Originally posted by Schmoe: Color doesn't mean squat. A diesel engine will turn new oil black within the first couple of hours. Hard to imagine a proper running Honda to have emission problems. See if you can get the codes read off the computer, Honda's are notorious for spitting out codes only when things are really bad. Also, before taking an emissions test, run high octane, premium, fuel in it for a couple of tanks. Don't know why your running a 15W-50 oil in the summer. Just about everyone I come across that owns a Honda/Acura is running no more than a 10W-30/5W-30. 126K is just breaking in for a Honda. I would almost suspect that the 15W-50 may be hampering your emissions, how, I don't know, just a thought.
OK, I'm going to go on a limb and question a widely the widely accepted interpretation of color "rule." I agree that generally color is meaningless, but can't you still draw some conclusions from plainly unusual color situations? For example, a gasoline engine with a history of gradually darkening its oil down over several thousand miles suddenly starts turning the same oil black immediately after installation? Wouldn't it be fair to take that as at least an indication that the engine ought to be examined? I only add this since I had an 88 Civic that I sold at 150k miles and its M-1, on 3-5k OCIs never got anywhere close to black. Worst I saw from this Honda was medium brown and clear after 5k.
 
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1,294
Location
Western Washington
quote:
Originally posted by ekpolk: OK, I'm going to go on a limb and question a widely the widely accepted interpretation of color "rule." I agree that generally color is meaningless, but can't you still draw some conclusions from plainly unusual color situations? For example, a gasoline engine with a history of gradually darkening its oil down over several thousand miles suddenly starts turning the same oil black immediately after installation? Wouldn't it be fair to take that as at least an indication that the engine ought to be examined? I only add this since I had an 88 Civic that I sold at 150k miles and its M-1, on 3-5k OCIs never got anywhere close to black. Worst I saw from this Honda was medium brown and clear after 5k. [/QB]
I've got to agree. My '95 Accord, a very similar car to his '96, never turns the oil black, not even in the ARX rinse phase. The oil is never more than honey colored after 5k. I use HDEO btw. What kind of mileage are you getting? Could a drop in mileage coupled with oil that darkens faster than usual suggest excessive blowby? Perhaps a dirty engine with sticky rings? Just my uneducated guess... [ May 04, 2004, 03:18 PM: Message edited by: Palut ]
 

Durrr

Thread starter
Messages
188
Location
Charleston, SC
I get generally really good mileage, I have an intake/header/exaust setup on it and get around 40 on the highway and 23 in the city. But, ive seen many other model hondas with my same engine have honey colored oil after each and every change. I also use a magnetic drain plug and the deposits i get off of it after 5,000 miles is minimal (take a paper towel to it and with one rub the magnet is clean again). By the way, I reset the ECU this morning, left the negative battery terminal off for 15 minutes, and drove around 100 miles today for work and didnt throw another code. Maybe the thing's just getting neurotic on me lol. But, I am definately going to use ARX on it as soon as I get it to see what kinda junk i can get out of there. also, any suggestions on what kind of oil i should use? Ive seen alot of people saying use only mineral oils and not synthetics, so I'll use a mineral oil, BUT, ive never used a mineral in any of my cars, so im not too familiar with them. Thanks [Big Grin]
 
Messages
1,294
Location
Western Washington
quote:
Originally posted by Durrr: I get generally really good mileage, I have an intake/header/exaust setup on it and get around 40 on the highway and 23 in the city. But, ive seen many other model hondas with my same engine have honey colored oil after each and every change. I also use a magnetic drain plug and the deposits i get off of it after 5,000 miles is minimal (take a paper towel to it and with one rub the magnet is clean again). By the way, I reset the ECU this morning, left the negative battery terminal off for 15 minutes, and drove around 100 miles today for work and didnt throw another code. Maybe the thing's just getting neurotic on me lol. But, I am definately going to use ARX on it as soon as I get it to see what kinda junk i can get out of there. also, any suggestions on what kind of oil i should use? Ive seen alot of people saying use only mineral oils and not synthetics, so I'll use a mineral oil, BUT, ive never used a mineral in any of my cars, so im not too familiar with them. Thanks [Big Grin]
I used Pennzoil HD Longlife 15W-40 when I ARX'd my car. The mileage didn't suffer at all with this oil, and the engine seemed to run well. This is what we use in our '85 Accord, and that car seems to love it: oil consumption down, fuel economy better than EPA estimate, engine runs smoother than before...
 

Durrr

Thread starter
Messages
188
Location
Charleston, SC
im kind of leary of Pennzoil in any form as its been personally responsible for me rebuilding 2 of the 5 rotaries ive rebuilt, and i dont wanna stick that into my engine even though its a completely different setup. Would castrol GTX 10-30 work well for a clean phase?
 
Messages
1,759
Location
Elizabeth City NC
I would not change a thing. I don't think there is any better oil than you are using. If your oil is turning black quickly it means your engine is sending to much fuel to each cylinder and it goes into the oil. Probably an oxygen senser that needs to be replaced. Your milage is about where they go. Will improve you milage so you save money by spending money. [Big Grin] I used Royal Purple but was not happy with the thinning at that time. I think they have fixed that problem but the best UOA I see are Mobil 1 so that is what I am sold on.
 
Messages
143
Location
NH
Are you checking the oil right a few minutes after its been run or the next morning? If you let any oil sit a long time it will be darker even after a few hundred miles.
 
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