?? Cotter Key Doesn't Engage Nut

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I would try to bend the cotter key to engage the slot. Alternate is drill the nut for safety wire. Also can use stud and bearing mount locking adhesive.

Rod
 
It looks like they have a washer under it already which means the taper is probably all the way through the knuckle, these parts are either a total design failure of they are the wrong joint in the package. Is this an aftermarket knuckle?
The Moog name is no longer a guarantee of getting a high quality part, they make a lot of garbage these days along with a few decent pieces.
 
That is way far off. I have done a ton of tie rod ends. Not just on my cars and I have never seen that. Are they sure it is the correct part?
 
Originally Posted by andyd
go with a NY-LoK nut?


Other than buying a different brand tie rod this is the best option.
 
Most likely, wrong application. On the dodge b300 van chassis, their are two different ballpoint part numbers. One for heavy duty , or not. They both work, just the stud is longer on one and the castle nut is useless
on jeeps people use the ball joints for the zj on their tj and vs versa. Same problem
 
I had that happen. It was something stupid like a saturn though that could have been a parts-bin TRE. I just put a washer under the nut. The taper etc was perfect.
 
you sure its not a Carter key. LOL.. I still get a giggle when I hear people say this. just like Shermin Williams paint.
 
Other than OEM suspension and steering parts, is there a high quality brand for such parts?

I just bough a steering link for my 92 Toyota pickup from O'reillys. Master something brand. I was disappointed how much alignment correction was needed. The Moog link was almost twice the cost. I don't mind spending more money for well made quality parts, but I don't have enough experience with front end work to know which brand to choose these days..
 
Originally Posted by frankbee3
Other than OEM suspension and steering parts, is there a high quality brand for such parts?

I just bough a steering link for my 92 Toyota pickup from O'reillys. Master something brand. I was disappointed how much alignment correction was needed. The Moog link was almost twice the cost. I don't mind spending more money for well made quality parts, but I don't have enough experience with front end work to know which brand to choose these days..

MasterPro... AVOID! Unless absolutely necessary I'd never put anything MasterPro on my vehicle... Except sometimes MasterPro is reboxed OE or Moog so it's a good deal. Even Moog is pretty bad occasionally. It's hard to find quality parts!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by frankbee3
Other than OEM suspension and steering parts, is there a high quality brand for such parts?

I just bough a steering link for my 92 Toyota pickup from O'reillys. Master something brand. I was disappointed how much alignment correction was needed. The Moog link was almost twice the cost. I don't mind spending more money for well made quality parts, but I don't have enough experience with front end work to know which brand to choose these days..


Depending on availability I use OE or Sankei 555 (mostly Asian makes and is OE on many), TRW, Lemforderer, Deeza, Kryptonite, Dynatrac, Poly Flex, PSB, Pro Forge and a few others.
The poly flex bushings are the best in the business for VW strut mounts bar none, PSB makes great sway bar mounts and rear axle carrier mount as does power flex. Kryptonite and Dynatrac are mostly for pickups.

I have been using Pro forge for a while now for most domestic and they seems to be very good quality, the finish holds up to NE winters and salt well,they are wearing well and the boots are fine, mostly made in Taiwan but to me that's preferable to made in India or China and assembled in the USA.
Napa carries 555 under their own Napa premium brand, you have to look for the marking in the store.

I don't use Moog if I can help it, some of the stuff is atrocious and not fit to be put on a car eg bushing made in India that is of such poor quality I literally threw them away as it would cost more to return them, threads in tie rod ends drilled and tapped off center, etc, this stuff is really garbage and its not getting better, the once good name is ruined.
Raybestos pro and Delco pro are not terrible and I use them before Moog, the Delco OE line is good stuff, the Advantage line is scrap metal. Mevotech, URO, Meyle, etc are all garbage. Someone said Mevotech has a new line so I tried it, one tie rod had a hole in the boot from careless assembly of the boot ring, that's that for me.
 
Wow Trav! Thanks for the information!

This reminds me of trying to buy parts for my old VW Beetle as a rolling restoration. I threw away plenty of new aftermarket parts that were junk in favor of worn OE parts that were in much better shape.

No more MasterPro for me..
 
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