Will a coolant bypass filter using TP work? Will such fine filtration buy me anything compared to running a standard filter in the coolant system?
Coolant Bypass
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When I installed a Motor Guard on the old Ford diesel when I bought it I didn't think the filter would have much to do. The coolant looked very clean. When I changed the TP the first time it was like it came out of a mud puddle. It was a few times before the TP started looking pretty good.
Ralph
Ralph
Will a normal coolant work for TP bypass, or will you have to use a special coolant?
Does the oil block water from going through tp as used in an oil filter, otherwise tp can be used to filter coolant? Interesting...
Its just a filter. No special coolant is needed.
I like the idea of coolant filters(or even screens) especially with the neglect most 'long life coolant equipped' vehicles have to deal with.
Anything picked up by the filter doesn't get stuck to the insides of the engine or radiator. Your water pump and its seals might actually last longer with clean, and not gritty, coolant as the lubricant.
The benefit of the 'parallel bypass' over a 'series full flow', is that if the bypass clogs, you still have full coolant flow. If the full flow clogs, unless it has a bypass valve, you end up blocking off whatever cooling circuit the filter is inline with.
I know that everyone calls the coolant plastic bottle an antifreeze recovery, overflow, or expansion tank. I call it a settling tank. There isn't a vehicle that I've serviced that didn't have some type of crud 'settling out'. Some of that crud is floating throughout your cooling system.
I like the idea of coolant filters(or even screens) especially with the neglect most 'long life coolant equipped' vehicles have to deal with.
Anything picked up by the filter doesn't get stuck to the insides of the engine or radiator. Your water pump and its seals might actually last longer with clean, and not gritty, coolant as the lubricant.
The benefit of the 'parallel bypass' over a 'series full flow', is that if the bypass clogs, you still have full coolant flow. If the full flow clogs, unless it has a bypass valve, you end up blocking off whatever cooling circuit the filter is inline with.
I know that everyone calls the coolant plastic bottle an antifreeze recovery, overflow, or expansion tank. I call it a settling tank. There isn't a vehicle that I've serviced that didn't have some type of crud 'settling out'. Some of that crud is floating throughout your cooling system.
Cleaning out the crud could cut down on thermal stress. The insides of the cooling system can get gunked up at different rates in different areas. That means the the heat transfer my differ quite a bit and some parts will not heat or cool evenly.
Can a parallel hookup across the heater lines drive water through a Frantz filter with the restricter orifice removed?
Can a parallel hookup across the heater lines drive water through a Frantz filter with the restricter orifice removed?
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You're gonna drop some pressure across your heater core. It may not be much ..but any will drive the coolant through the Frantz.
I learned from the Catepillar reps for the Bradley Fighting Vehicle that coolant filters prevent a lot of damage. The sludge that buids up in the system coats parts and prevents them from getting the anti corrosion additives, so they corrode. A look at truck engines with coolant filters shows no sludge at rebuild time, so it seems logical that you are saving yourself some problems by using a good coolant filter. I just don't know if a TP filter is the best answer.I will give it a try.
i run a regular spin on coolant filter on my land cruiser. i got the filter base from a ford diesel site and i get the filters from napa (with out the conditioner) so far it has removed all of the sludge building material and other stuff that didnt stick together like sludge, i suspect erosion of the material in contact with the coolant.
Probably Dieselsite.com, here's where you can get their coolant filter setup:
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPRODGROUP&ID=13
On my '98 Dodge Ram, I put together a coolant filter setup with Napa off-the shelf components, probably had about $50 in it. I'll have to dig around and find the part numbers, anybody can have one from these parts. On my '06 PSD, I've got the Deiselsite.com setup.
Coolant filters are a big deal to the diesel crowd. There are major advantages to having a coolant filter in your system.
Al
I’m running a Baldwin B5134 coolant filter on my Duramax.. It’s plumbed in as a bypass across the heater core .. Filters are fairly inexpensive .. about $6 .. I replace the filter and change coolant (50/50 DexCool & Distilled Water) annually … when cutting open the filter there is always some residue in the bottom and on the pleats … (see pics) …
Here's a link to some previous discussion on this topic ...
Coolant Filters??
Here's a link to some previous discussion on this topic ...
Coolant Filters??
More discussion on coolant filters on my 4x4 club forum with tech info and pics:
http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1394&KW=Big+Red
Al
http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1394&KW=Big+Red
Al
I have an old Motorgard with TP in it as a coolant filter on one vehicle. I tried using a real Motorguard filter element in it once. It is like coffee filter paper. It worked OK, but was expensive.
On another vehicle, someone on this site recommended using a regular spin on oil filter, so decided to try that. I plumbed in one a few weeks ago, and so far so good. Both filters are just in parallel with the heater core.
On another vehicle, someone on this site recommended using a regular spin on oil filter, so decided to try that. I plumbed in one a few weeks ago, and so far so good. Both filters are just in parallel with the heater core.
It seems to me that the general consensus of those experienced with coolant filters is that it would help prolong the life of not only the seals and water pump, but the radiator, heater core and hoses as well. I've had a few close calls before when an upper or lower radiator hose had cracked and leaked coolant while on the highway. It would be nice to have a car that is more "hands off." If the heater core were to rust b/c of sludge deposits it would be very expensive to replace because the whole dash needs to be taken apart.
[ July 08, 2006, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: mjo ]
[ July 08, 2006, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: mjo ]
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Let us know how this turns out. We all know what happens to oil filter media that has water content in it. The media appears to swell and distort ..and I assume weaken. It may be the combo that does this
Interestingly ...WIX, and therefore NAPA, offers a coolant filter head (thanks to Bill's part number and the Baldwin X'ref that mentions the head number).
HOWEVER ..the WIX "no chemical" filter is VERY EXPENSIVE ($80 list and $36+s&h from fleet filter). If Baldwin is selling one for $6 ..it's a screaming deal. The chemical filters from WIX are cheaper (go figure
It's FIL4019 in NAPA language. They'll still look at you funny ...so just ask them to x'ref 24019 in WIX. It's $44.xx list from NAPA according to their site. I imagine that it would be somewhere in the $20 range from fleetfilter
Somewhat comically, NAPA lists this as a "hydraulic filter kit/head" on their website. NAPA's own master filter catalog lists 11/16 thread filters as coolant ...at least most of them
I use the 24070 wix and it is a coolant with no chemical and fleetfilter has them for $5.46.
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You appear to be correct. Oddly, I copied each one of these filter numbers (printed the page) and went down to NAPA and has them price out each one. I must have missed the fact that the 4070 is void of chemicals. There is one other non-chemical filter. I'll try and find the email where Brian (or Bryan) sent me a quote. It's obviously not one of those listed on the site.
I believe that this is the one I'm talking about:
Part Number: 24083
UPC Number: 765809240834
Principal Application: Extended Drain Coolant (Non Chemical Filter)
All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 4.173
Outer Diameter Top: 3.690
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Note: Cooling System Filter with No Chemicals
Prinicipal Application-Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Other
Service-ESI
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.850 2.470 0.230
or this one
Part Number: 24084
UPC Number: 765809240841
Principal Application: Extended Drain Coolant, High Capacity (No Chemical) Long life (150,000 miles)
All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 5.430
Outer Diameter Top: 3.690
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Note: Cooling System Filter with No Chemicals
Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Other
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.850 2.470 0.230
They are designed for 150k of service in diesels.
I believe that this is the one I'm talking about:
Part Number: 24083
UPC Number: 765809240834
Principal Application: Extended Drain Coolant (Non Chemical Filter)
All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 4.173
Outer Diameter Top: 3.690
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Note: Cooling System Filter with No Chemicals
Prinicipal Application-Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Other
Service-ESI
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.850 2.470 0.230
or this one
Part Number: 24084
UPC Number: 765809240841
Principal Application: Extended Drain Coolant, High Capacity (No Chemical) Long life (150,000 miles)
All Applications
Style: Coolant Spin-On Filter
Service: Coolant
Height: 5.430
Outer Diameter Top: 3.690
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 11/16-16
Note: Cooling System Filter with No Chemicals
Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Other
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.850 2.470 0.230
They are designed for 150k of service in diesels.
I use the 24070 on mine with extended coolant but change the filter once a year or so dependeding on what it looks like in the tank or how long it has been in service.
When I first considered adding a coolant filter to my Duramax Diesel I talked with the Baldwin Tech support folks and they explained that there are two basic types – one that dispenses SCAs (supplemental coolant additives) and one that does not. Many large diesels used in trucks and heavy equipment use the SCA type filters. Baldwin advised me that since I was using DexCool, I would have to use the non-additive filters. Also, the non-add filters come in two versions – standard ($6 range) and extended life (more $$$). The extended life filters are designed to last 150kmi while the standard type is changed more frequently. The Baldwin B5134 & equivalent WIX 24070 (short version B5089) are the less expensive standard types which are changed annually. The Baldwin B5090 (short B5088) and WIX 24084 (short 24083) which Gary describes above are the more expensive extended life types. All these filters appear to mount on the same base (Baldwin CFB5000 or equivalent)
I opted for the lower cost version since I’m still in the habit of changing coolant annually even though it's speced for 150kmi (old school
)
I opted for the lower cost version since I’m still in the habit of changing coolant annually even though it's speced for 150kmi (old school
On the thoughts of using a standard 3/4-16 mount.... [read cheap here].
What are your thoughts on using a fully synthetic element like an Amsoil filter? Would it breakdown similar to the regular oil filters in coolant? That would be cheap and easy.
Also, I'm intrigued with the thought of using a 3/4-16 mount inline with the heater hose with a Trasko filter. I think this would work. Cost effective? Debatable. But between the mesh screen and internal bypass of the unit you would be filtering all of the coolant to some degree all of the time. Thoughts?
I have yet to intall any bypass on my cars as of yet. The two MG-30's I bought from Ralph before the price hike are awaiting my time/energy. I'm still struggling with were to put 'em. I did put an aftermarket trans cooler with an inline Baldwin B2-HPG filter on one car and it seems to be doing well. That is what is up next for the other car before I do anything more. The MG-30's will be for the oil (when I get through playing with particle counts of various FF filters). Coolant filter? Undecided. Fuel filter? Way down the line.
What are your thoughts on using a fully synthetic element like an Amsoil filter? Would it breakdown similar to the regular oil filters in coolant? That would be cheap and easy.
Also, I'm intrigued with the thought of using a 3/4-16 mount inline with the heater hose with a Trasko filter. I think this would work. Cost effective? Debatable. But between the mesh screen and internal bypass of the unit you would be filtering all of the coolant to some degree all of the time. Thoughts?
I have yet to intall any bypass on my cars as of yet. The two MG-30's I bought from Ralph before the price hike are awaiting my time/energy. I'm still struggling with were to put 'em. I did put an aftermarket trans cooler with an inline Baldwin B2-HPG filter on one car and it seems to be doing well. That is what is up next for the other car before I do anything more. The MG-30's will be for the oil (when I get through playing with particle counts of various FF filters). Coolant filter? Undecided. Fuel filter? Way down the line.
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