Consensus Cooling Sys. Leak Sealer?

Joined
Sep 5, 2017
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USA
Hello - I'm wondering if there might be anything resembling a consensus here on a cooling sys. (radiator, in my case) leak sealer?

This would be for an "old" (`98) Ford Ranger, quite a few miles (200K+) - 4 cyl. - Manual Trans.

Thx in advance . . .
 
Last resort fix if you're getting rid of your vehicle or you are milking your vehicle to the bone yard.
If your vehicle is worth fixing and you are doing the job yourself, get a new radiator.
 
I am for replacing the radiator. They are not too expensive, no transmission lines to worry about and can be changed out in less than an hour. It's worth the piece of mind. You also take the chance of plugging up your heater core using a stop leak.
 
Hello - I'm wondering if there might be anything resembling a consensus here on a cooling sys. (radiator, in my case) leak sealer?

This would be for an "old" (`98) Ford Ranger, quite a few miles (200K+) - 4 cyl. - Manual Trans.

Thx in advance . . .
Don't do it, it ends up turning into thick sludge
that is next to impossible to get out, just put a new radiator on it, they're not expensive.
 
I have used Bars Leak with success in older vehicles. Personally the only brand I trust, and never plugged anything except the leak.
 
Thx everyone for your input. This vehicle is really only for once every month or two to haul trash 4.2 miles round trip (basically). Two traffic lights one-way and i can go right on red once coming and going. If it wasn't for the fact that a friend or family member might want to borrow it for something I probably wouldn't bother with the pin-hole leak in a side-near-the-top leak and just top it up once every month or two..

Chance of it having trouble in the "middle of the night somewhere in the middle of no where" is not at all likely due to the reason stated in the last paragraph.

The mini-environmentalist in me knows that it's not good for the fishes/water supply (which everything eventually makes it to), so ... I gotta do something.

I've never changed a radiator but this one looks almost too easy ("no trans lines" as mentioned ^above^) and good clearance all around. I had already bought the hoses anyway.

Sounds like I'm changing the radiator - Thx again to all (and sorry I'm just now getting back here, I didn't receive any email notifications of y'alls posts).
 
Another option that will work sometimes, depending on where the leak is, is to use some epoxy (like JB Weld and the like) to seal from the outside. If the leak is on the plastic part of the radiator, this is the only realistic option. It can work on the tubes as well, assuming you can get it clean enough to get adhesion.
 
Radiators are normally cheap and easy to replace. I would not use a sealer on a radiator. Besides that, sealer won't work on the plastic parts or effectively seal the gasket between the aluminum and plastic for long either. I mean, if you are trying to seal the cooling system long enough to get it home and save the cost of a tow, then yes. Otherwise for a radiator, no.
 
I am for replacing the radiator. They are not too expensive, no transmission lines to worry about and can be changed out in less than an hour. It's worth the piece of mind. You also take the chance of plugging up your heater core using a stop leak.
20221113_184120.jpg
 
Those GM tabs can be found on Rock Auto, but watch the shipping..

Part # 12378255


Why not just get the Bars branded ones? Same thing except cheaper (meaning more of them in the package for the same price). Oh that's a good price on Rock Auto if you can get it shipped from the same place.
 
Just get a new radiator. Chances are at that age, the plastic tanks are brittle and not worth messing with. A Dorman special is 120 bones on Amazon. Stop leak might keep it from leaking for a while... at least until the middle of the night somewhere in the middle of no where.

or plug up your heater core... not too bad insummer of course...
 
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