Cold/dry start in vq35 engine

[speedtc]

Problem: After sitting over night my 2004 altima has a cold/dry start. It sounds just like when you start up after an oil change and you cannot fill filter.
Using: 5w30 penn platinum
pure one filter
This is the second fill of platinum and have noticed this sound before but don't know if it happened with other oils.
My next fixes:
1st: buy genuine nissan filter at dealer. I'm not sure if ADBV in pureone one is working. Change filter and platinum make up oil.
If that does not fix issue...
2nd: Change to 10w30 platinum. Thicker slightly and maybe will be better at startup.
3rd: Change to different oil.
4th: PUNT!

 

[Chris142]

I'd replace the filter. Not necesarly with one from the dealer although I'm sure it's a good filter.

I personaly like champ labs filters. I'd pick up a ST, STP or Bosch and see if the noise stops.

 

[speedtc]

It did this also with a M1 filter. It also may be a trait of the vq35 and really no big deal.

 

[ekpolk]

quote:

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Originally posted by speedtc:
It did this also with a M1 filter. It also may be a trait of the vq35 and really no big deal.

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I suspect you're hearing what some refer to as "timing chain rattle". This issue is actually TSB-ed for certain versions of the VQ35DE (not sure if yours in included). The apparent cause is a slight degree of slack in the timing chain during the time it takes the chain tensioner to stabilize (it is oil pressure actuated). I had a pretty noticeable case of it when my engine was new. The Infiniti dealership offered to do some procedure on the chains and actuator, but I held off, not really wanting them to tear into my engine. Glad I did. I still hear a tad of TCR on some starts, but the switch to GC seemed to greatly diminish the problem. Whether it's the heavier viscosity, some other property of the oil, or just coincidence, I can't say. Google "timing chaing rattle VQ35" and some variations, and you should find more info.

EDIT: Also, the Nissan folks will tell you that it's a harmless "cosmetic" sound problem, so long as it does not continue beyond 2-3 seconds. Rare extreme long-lasting cases can be a problem. If you push 'em, the'll probably offer a fix if you're in wty, even if your case is minor.

 

[speedtc]

Hmmmm. You don't say? We'll i just dumped 10w30 PP and used the extra M1 filter i had. We'll see.

 

[ex_MGB]

ekpolk - I like your thinking mister! Too many times people over-react on a minor issue and insist the dealer "fix" the problem.

I have a 2001SE Miata and on Miatanet, there came a great hue and cry about "clutch shudder". I simply came to accepted that with the low torque at low rpm as well as the rubber shock absorption drive shaft piece just before the rear Torsen (to cushion impact to the mechanical Torsen torque splitter), one needed to just keep the rpm at launch up just a bit to get around the problem.

Not so others, to the dealer they went. Some two or three times.

But back to the VQ. I've a '97 Max with the 3.0 VQ and timing chain rattle is a known issue. However, the latest fix is you have to pull the engine and remove the timing chain cover plate. The new re-designed tensioner is too big to fit through the previous access window. as well, you should install new chain guides.

The problem is that on start-up the tensioner takes a second or two to pressure up and push the guides to tension the timing chain. If the tensioner ceases to ever pressure up (the internal o-ring is shot) you've got a real problem.

But, if its only at start-up every now and then, and may indeed be aggravated by a fresh oil filter with the anti-drain back valve just settling in the first start-up or two, do you really want a dealer's shop tearing into your factory fresh baby?

I'm with the research the problem, see if there's a few simple fixes or even just mask the symptoms, and live with it. If its a real problem, then you would expect the VQ family to show high iron wear numbers, but that is not the case.

 

[ekpolk]

exMGB:

Thanks! I've scoured my disk, and can't find my copy of the TSB (it may be stranded on my old computer...). Reading your post, I also recalled from the TSB that in the VQ35, the VVT sprockets are involved too, and get replaced as part of the TSB procedure.

As you can see from the UOAs I've posted, I am not experiencing any signs of abnormal metals from this, or in fact any other, source.

No way they're breaking into my engine unless this starts to show signs of doing real harm.

 

[shanneba]

the 10w-30 PP will be thicker at startup and thinner at 100C than the 5w-30.
From the PP spec sheet:
5w-30 10w-30
temp viscosity
40C 59.66 63.23
100C 10.59 10.37

If it is an issue of the chain tensioner not getting oil presure fast enough at start up, the 10w-30 might make it worse.