Clutch question

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Can a clutch chatter because of a bad engine or transmission mount? Shifting is fine, no slipping. Buddies Ford P/U clucth just started to chatter, we haven't found the time to check the mounts. TIA AD
 
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Depends on the linkage. If the powertrain shifting causes the linkage to pull away it could be an issue. Would expect that from rod linkages from long ago. All hydraulic clutches would be immune from this condition. Now I have had bum motor mounts that kind of felt like wheel hop on a take off condition; new mounts put the power to the road crisply like I expect. In that condition I could nurse the car going smoothly with lots of clutch slip: Had a glazed clutch long ago and the "friction zone" was the worse place for chattering.
 
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 Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Can a clutch chatter because of a bad engine or transmission mount? Shifting is fine, no slipping. Buddies Ford P/U clucth just started to chatter, we haven't found the time to check the mounts.
Has the clutch been replaced recently? This happens a lot when a clutch is replaced and the flywheel has not been resurfaced. If the engine and tranny mounts are okay and the clutch has not been replaced lately, I'd be looking at replacing the clutch and pressure plate assembly.
 

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The clutch is hydraulic, and has about 40,000 miles on it. Chatter is slight after a long drive or a lot of traffic. I think he has a bad engine mount or tranny mount as well as a bad clutch. We hate to tear it apart since there is no slipping or grinding gears. AD
 

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According to my buddy a quick look under the truck and pulling a rubber plug on the side of the transmission which allows you to see the side of the pressure plate indicated no leaks. Can the clutch be glazed, and a few quick take offs and some spirited driving get this thing in shape again? As I mentioned it functions perfectly, w/o slip. I took it for a test drive a little while ago, and noticed the chatter on take off when it was driven a while. I took it up to about 25 mph, tossed it into 4th gear and floored it, and it didn't slip. Took it up to 30 threw it into 5th and floored it, no slip. Shifting is perfect. My suggestion was to live with it until he can't stand it anymore and then deal with it. AD
 
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The friction disc can get glazed. If it is glazed the only way to unglaze it is to pull out the disk and hit the surface lighty with some sand paper. Try giving it a little more rpm on take off and see if it smoothes out any. Also, try letting out the clutch a tad quicker. Letting it out too slow and having it slip quite a bit can put a glaze on it. I suggest he live with it also if it's not severe. But, if it's not severe a slight adjustment to clutch habit might alleviatethe problem being noticeable.
 
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 Originally Posted By: AdRock
The friction disc can get glazed. If it is glazed the only way to unglaze it is to pull out the disk and hit the surface lighty with some sand paper. Try giving it a little more rpm on take off and see if it smoothes out any. Also, try letting out the clutch a tad quicker. Letting it out too slow and having it slip quite a bit can put a glaze on it. I suggest he live with it also if it's not severe. But, if it's not severe a slight adjustment to clutch habit might alleviatethe problem being noticeable.
+1 I've had that happen over the years and a slight change in driving habits resolved the issue. I had a Chevy Suburban I sold with over 150,000 miles on the original clutch and it chattered on occasion.
 
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I had wicked chatter on my old mazda 323, never got to the bottom of it. An old time (read: redneck) mechanic told me to set the e-brake, step firmly on the service brake, and stall the idling engine by stepping off the clutch! It felt wierd to do but it "fixed" it for a while. I agree on the rear main seal hypothesis. Might try a motor oil without friction modifiers like for wet-clutch motorcycles!
 
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That idea of stalling the engine brings back memories of my Suburban. IIRC I was told the same thing, and now that I think about it, it did work. That is assuming the clutch still has some meat on it. If it is not slipping, shifting fine, and passes the slip test ADFD1 described I would give that stalling idea a try.
 

ADFD1

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 Originally Posted By: AdRock
The friction disc can get glazed. If it is glazed the only way to unglaze it is to pull out the disk and hit the surface lighty with some sand paper. Try giving it a little more rpm on take off and see if it smoothes out any. Also, try letting out the clutch a tad quicker. Letting it out too slow and having it slip quite a bit can put a glaze on it. I suggest he live with it also if it's not severe. But, if it's not severe a slight adjustment to clutch habit might alleviatethe problem being noticeable.
Well I hooked up with my buddy over the weekend, and asked if I could try doing something to his truck. I started it up, put it in Reverse, held the brake, and released the clutch. The truck stalled exactly as I expected it to. Not that it matters I did the same thing in first gear as well. We then went for a ride and made a few stops at some stores. The clutch seemed fine, after about an hour of driving, and several stop starts from traffic lights. Maybe it was just glazed. Thanks for the replies! AD
 
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Another tip on clutches,do not buy the rebuilt clutch kits and buy a new kit instead.They are the biggest piece of junk and new clutch kits hold up better
 

ADFD1

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I had the opportunity to use the truck today. Drives just fine, seems the chatter is gone. It was lousy the other day. It will not slip, grind or chatter now, it's weird. I looked under it for signs of a leak, checked the little clutch master cyl too. The fluid is clean and to the proper level. At this point I suggested to my buddy not to look for trouble and just drive it. If we put a clutch in it, we will put a Centerforce Series II disc, and pressure plate, along with a new TOB, Pilot bearing, flywheel, and slave cyl. That should set him up for a long time, that's if and when the present clutch fails. AD
 
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A clutch that has oil on it from the tranny input or rear engine seal will chatter and grab. Peek into any inspection holes that you can for signs of this problem.
 

ADFD1

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There is a rubber cover over an opening on the side of the bell housing that we removed and were able to see the clutch disc plate and flywheel (sandwich) from the side. There are no signs of oil or hydraulic fluid of any kind. We can only see a side view of the assembly, eyeballing it, it appears to be OK. My buddy commented that all appears to be well for now. The chatter seems to be gone since I set the brake and released the clutch, stalling the engine. AD
 
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But to go back to your original question, yes. For sure worn or sloppy engine or trans mounts can make clutch engagement goofy, and shifting and wheel hop can be worse, as well.
 
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