Cleaning Sludge from Under Valve Covers

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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
If the car behaves fine, I see no reason to "fix" the issue.

Your short trips are not helping it though. Perhaps step up to a synthetic and take it out on the highway a bit more often.

Check and/ or replace your air filter too.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I have seen a lot worse, switch to PP or PU and do shortened OCI like 5K, it will clean up okay in about 20K. Don't panic if it starts using a little oil or gets a few weeps, its normal and will subside as the engine gets cleaner and the rings free.


+1 on this. I think I'd also find a good excuse to drive it a bit longer a few times a week. Maybe take it out for a spirited drive on some back roads or hwy driving to get the engine nice and warm.
 
I wouldn't spend alot of thought on it. I'd keep using the Castrol and add some Marvel Mystery oil at the recommended amount. I would not use any harsh ckeaners like Sea Foam or motor flush. Really it's a 1999 with almost 200,000 is all the drop the pan, disassembly and clean necessary when the transmission will probably go before the motor. It was running fine. Just follow your short oil changes and drive till a major issue arises or trade it in. Best answer.
 
I would not do any additives or flushes in your situation (or any situation really). Flushes and additives just increase the chances of sending larger sized contaminate through the system and causing a more catastrophic issue IMO. Better to slowly clean by using high detergent oil over time or to completely break down the engine and hand clean. Have seen many much worse than that and it did not affect the engine performance; not saying that it eventually won't though, but I don't think it is here from what your are saying. I would check the mechanical items already mentioned, put in a new PCV, then switch to a high detergent oil like one of the Pennzoil products (yelllow bottle for conventional, PP or PPHM for syn) or Valvoline products (Maxlife syn blend, Synpower, or Maxife Synpower) and continue doing your 3k oci's. If I had this car personally, I would button it back up and use PPHM or Maxlife syn blend and run her with a Fram TG until she dies. That car doesn't owe you anything anymore for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Why did I click on this thread while eating my dinner ? What the heck is wrong with me ?
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jeezus, merk -- you have a couple of loaded questions there.how much time do you have?
have a good day, man.
 
I just finished hand cleaning the rocker arms and areas around it. It looks sort of better now. I am going to switch over to Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 10w30. I am going to run it for 3,000 miles for the next two oil change intervals and report back the results. Just to throw it out their. I have never had any major problems with the vehicle and it sounds very good on the road. Especially considering it is a V6.
 
Sounds like a good plan. I would really take the $3-5 bucks and 60 seconds to put in a new PCV unless you've already put one in recently.
 
I look at it this way, the valve cover is/was off, I would have cleaned at least that portion of the engine up before putting it back together. While I was at it I probably would have popped the other valve cover and cleaned that as well. That much less to break loose should you decide to try a cleaner or high detergent synthetic oil. And by all means change the PCV valve, if you haven't done so. Get an OE PCV valve, not some aftermarket garbage from an auto parts store.
 
I have a very short trip to work (2.5 mi) and two to three days a week I make sure I get on a highway or the local bypass road and give it a good run right up the RPM range.
 
Lol, that is nothing compared to some of the crud I've seen. New pcv valve and Delo XLE 10W-30 every 4-5K will do you fine. I don't think you have enough build up in there to be coolant intrusion.
 
Originally Posted By: turnbowm
New PCV valve and switch to HM synthetic oil might be all you need to do.

+1. Your PCV could be clogged. If so, that's what's causing the sludge.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Shata
I find it hard to believe you had this car for entire 200k miles with 3k changes. It would never look like that with short intervals.


I can believe it. I had posted pics of shots through the fill hole of a 2000 Century my father had given me with about 80K miles or so on it. He was the original owner and the oil was religiously changed at 3K miles or less with dino oil since new. I was not impressed by what I saw through the fill hole. All I can say is in some cases it can happen, I've witnessed it. The OP's car is a lot worse, and appears to need to be cleaned manually before any kind of cleaners or flushes. Mine wasn't that bad and I was able to clean it up and keep it clean. I also changed over to synthetic oil in it.

I would pressure test the cooling system in that car and rule out a bad head gasket. After the cleanup I would switch to HM synthetic oil and stay with it.


It is called GM's high quality leaky gaskets.
 
I'm guessing whoever owned it before you never changed the oil. 3k oil changes should have an engine so clean you could eat off of it.
 
Definitely the previous owner. 100%, not even debatable if he says he has always done 3k OCI since owning. Doesn't matter if he only drives 5 mins to work. New oil is in there every 3K. Well ok, maybe if he has used olive oil by accident.

I bought a "low km" engine for my car some years ago that turned out to be a sludge cake. Apparently had less than 100,000kms (60K miles) on it. I don't doubt that it was low mileage, I doubt the oil was change more than three or four times at best! Rebuilding was the only solution.

I wouldn't even try cleaning it. That kind of [censored] can be on so hard it's not even funny. You need strong solvents when the engine is apart and being rebuilt. Just keep doing what you're doing. It has some seriously high mileage on it so I would not be too precious about the car. If you love it that much, save money and buy a rebuilt kit and go to town on it when you have some spare time.
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EDIT: forgot to mention that in my experience, the valve train area will not be the only area affected by sludge. The whole engine including crankshaft will be sludged up nicely.
 
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I'd use the cheapest SN 10W-30 I could find and add Rislone to it for the last 500 miles of the next three OCI's, then move to a syn like PP...

And def a new PCV...
 
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