Cleaning 22LR?

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: Durango
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: Durango
In addition I still stress not to get the crown dinged and if you have a bolt action clean from the breech end instead of the front like carbines.


I think you might be mis-using the term carbine.



chevrofreak,

I consider all my semi-autos to be considered a carbine. "Short barreled semi-auto" is considered a carbine. My bolt actions are what I call rifles.

Durango


Carbines can also be bolt action, lever action, muzzle-loading, etc. A carbine is a shorter weapon, usually firing a less powerful cartridge than a rifle.

 

[demarpaint]

I use a good one piece coated cleaning rod, with the proper size jag and Kroil for cleaning a 22 RF. After a shooting session I will push 3 Kroil patches down the bore, then 2 dry patches. I am looking to get powder out and leave a thin film of Kroil so nothing rusts. No problems in over 30 years of RF shooting.

 

[SteveD2]

Originally Posted By: Durango
If he drowns his bolt and trigger group in WD-40 it'll work for a short time. All it'll do is collect more fouling into the action!!! Better carefully clean and oil in a precision way instead of spraying. Durango


I do exactly that with all of my bolts from my bolt action guns, and slides from my semi auto pistols. I buy the stuff (WD-40) for $11.00 a gallon at my local Home Depot. I keep a quart or so in a glass jar with a stiff bristled paint brush. Afterward I then blow everything dry with compressed air. I then oil everything with Mobil 1. You wouldn't believe the amount of crud the WD-40 washes out. The gun comes out cleaner than when it left the factory. You can use clean Kerosene or Diesel as well, but the WD-40 smells a lot better, and is easier to find. Bill T.

 

[Durango]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I use a good one piece coated cleaning rod, with the proper size jag and Kroil for cleaning a 22 RF. After a shooting session I will push 3 Kroil patches down the bore, then 2 dry patches. I am looking to get powder out and leave a thin film of Kroil so nothing rusts. No problems in over 30 years of RF shooting.



demarpaint,

Your cleaning rod is one of the best possible. You don't need to clean after every shooting secession. The wax coating on each bullet leaves a small coating inside the barrel. I usually solvent clean mine every 4-6 months using about the same amount of patches you use. Sometimes I even might use a brush down the bore and back out just to scrape lose anything remaining. I only make sure bolts and actions are clean after every secession.

Durango

 

[MolaKule]

Quote:
These "abrasive" rods are most often aluminum, brass, wood (shotgun), plastic coated, etc., or any rod made of a material that is softer than the
barrel material.



Unlees you drop the brush or swab or pull-through on the ground and pick up abrasives (Sand, silicon), I cannot see where soft metals such as brass or aluminum could possibly damage heat treated 41XX chromoly bores.

I use brass rods because brass is soft and will bend. Phosphor bronze bore brushes are also softer than the bore material.

 

[Durango]

MolaKule,

All one has to do is wipe the cleaning rod after running it down the barrel. Brass is soft metal than the metals barrel so it should harm the bore. Aluminum rods I heard can. Either case just wipe the rod with a cloth.

Durango

 

[jmacmaster]

Jeez. The answer is simple. Since time immemorial its been known that you should clean any rifle, shotgun, or handgun after each shooting. Period. And there is no way that an aluminium cleaning rod will harm the interior of a barrel, because aluminium is a much softer metal than steel, which is what gun barrels are made of.

 

[chevrofreak]

And you should also never go beyond 3000 miles before an oil change. Ever.

 

[Shannow]

Paper's pretty soft too...until you embed some carborundum in it.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Durango
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I use a good one piece coated cleaning rod, with the proper size jag and Kroil for cleaning a 22 RF. After a shooting session I will push 3 Kroil patches down the bore, then 2 dry patches. I am looking to get powder out and leave a thin film of Kroil so nothing rusts. No problems in over 30 years of RF shooting.



demarpaint,

Your cleaning rod is one of the best possible. You don't need to clean after every shooting secession. The wax coating on each bullet leaves a small coating inside the barrel. I usually solvent clean mine every 4-6 months using about the same amount of patches you use. Sometimes I even might use a brush down the bore and back out just to scrape lose anything remaining. I only make sure bolts and actions are clean after every secession.

Durango


Just caught this now, thanks for tip. I usually shoot probably 150-200 rounds in a session when I take the 22 out. Sometimes it will be several months before that rifle is used again. I guess I'm old school, but I want that thin coat of Kroil in and on that barrel to prevent rust.

Frank D

 

[jcwit]

If alu. made such a good cleaning rod the Benchrest fraternity would be using them instead of the polished hardened steel they use. Re: Kroil as a rust preventive it wwwwaaaayyyy down the list, its an excellent carbon cleaner and works somewhat as a lead remover, and is a super penetrating oil but lacking as a rust protector.

 

[Maritime Storm]

I ended up picking up a new aluminium cleaning rod(could not find anything else in my area) and will stick with my previous routine of cleaning my rimfires prior to storing them in the spring and leaving them dirty during hunting season. As also mentioned I will wipe the rod down between passes to remove anything abrasive on it. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[SteveD2]

There are more Aluminum cleaning rods in use than any other kind. The only way Aluminum will scratch your barrel is if it becomes "charged" with something harder. Think about this. What is in a cartridge or shotshell that is harder than the steel in your gun barrel? Nothing. About the hardest thing a gun barrel will ever see is steel jacketed ammunition. That steel is extremely mild. Is has to be made softer than the steel used in the barrel, or it would remove the rifling, and send chamber pressure into the stratosphere. Benchrest shooters use steel rods, but they are plastic or Polymer coated. They use them simply because they are one piece, and much stiffer than Aluminum 3 piece rods, not because Aluminum "scratches". Bill T.

 

[jcwit]

Sorry to inform you but most benchrest shooters are/or have switched to a hardned highly polished steel rod for cleaning. Regarding steel cased ammo you never see someone with a high priced target pistol or rifle using that [censored] in their piece. Does mild steel wear a gun barrel? Take a look at some of the muzzle's of M1 garands, M1 carbines ect. I rest my case.

 

[SteveD2]

I'm not talking about steel cased ammo, but steel jacketed ammunition. Big difference. I don't know why everyone tries to compare everything the benchrest crowd says or does to everyday shooting and or hunting. That is a very specialized discipline of which very little translates into 95% of what most shooters do, or are about. I once had a guy try to tell me Weatherby actions were "no good" because no one in benchrest used them to build custom rifles with. When was the last time you saw someone win a Formula 1 race in a Porsche Turbo. Same difference. Bill T.

 

[Durango]

I though we were talking cleaning 22 rifles!?

The average 22 rifle shooter will only need to pass the rod no more than 5 times when cleaning. Besides one only has to do this twice per year anyway. I'm talking about lead 22 long rifles.

Durango