Cleaning 22LR?

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The "aluminum is bad" theory comes from the fact that aluminum oxidizes from the air forming aluminum oxide. The problem is that the naturally occuring layer is about 2 millionths of an inch thick and is amorphous, unlike the crystalline aluminum oxide on a grinding wheel which people think of. Brass rods being bad because of debris lodged in it? Whatever will get lodged in the rod is the same stuff in the barrel which is OK to pass a hammer forged bullet over time and time again with thousands of psi of burning hot gas behind it. Just clean the rod first. People get so worked up over cleaning rods that it really amazes me. And yes, I clean my .22 cal guns.
 

Maritime Storm

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Here a link: http://www.hr1871.com/Firearms/Rifles/sportster.asp I don't intend to scope it. Most game I shoot is under 30 yrds, I've always carried a shotgun, almost always a 12 Guage, and almost always too much gun for what I'm shooting at. My father always hunted with a .410 side by side, which I've never seen him miss with. My other rimfire is a Remington 525 my father gave me, which I never really cared for, after much work is finally grouping decent for my tastes. Trying to see through the scope in the Maritimes in January in the snow or a Ruffed Grouse in the pines can be frustrating to say the least.
 
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Maritime Storm, Nice single shot rimfire you have their. These rifles will last longer than you will and will give you many years of pleasure. You also must have good eyes cuz at my age I have no choice but to scope all my rimfire. Since you shoot only about 30 yards mo power to you. Most of my shooting is done with semi's and bolt actions so my accuracy testing is at a much faster pace. I always test at 50 yards and if I need to go [censored] I'll use my 17HMR rifle. If you taking small game just remember to use a good hollow-point to gusrantee a good fast kill. Durango
 
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Nobody else use the conical shaped brass bore guides when cleaning from the muzzle (semis)? If it does get dirty and abrade, it basically just polishes the crown. bob
 
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On semi auto rifles if one doesn't use any kind of bor guide then you up the chances of dinging the crown and throwing your rounds off course. This is especially true if one uses a standars 22 cleaning rod. I recommend using a 17. caliber cleaning rod instead. It leaves more room to spare when inserting the rod down the bore. The other good item to use is a "pull through" whice elimates the use of a cleaning rod. I still like to solvent my bores at least every 4 months by useing this method. The main thing in my books is just to take your time when it comes to cleaning rimfire bores. Crowns that get dinged usually are due to hasty cleaning. Careful cleaning is a must. Durango
 
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Dinged crowns? Have yet to see one unless someone dropped the thing. I've never used the funky bore guides and all I use is a brass or aluminum sectioned rod and have yet to damage anything. Brass punches and hammers are made to STRIKE steel and not damage it. If someone tells me a soft cleaning rod damaged their barrel... Plus all of those copper bullets that get deformed by the rifling!! Pull through? How abrasive do you think that nylon (or whatever) string is?
 
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Tempest, I like brass rods too! They softer than the barreled steel and don't ding crowns. I was refering earlier if one uses a steel rod. For mself I like to use a rod for a 17 caliber and use mt fingers as a bore guide and just take my time. The "pull throughs" are good for a quick n' clean way to clear the bore. I use this when I want to switch to another brand of ammo. I then shoot about 10 rounds to dress the bore before I start my testing for groups. Durango
 
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 Originally Posted By: Tempest
Brass punches and hammers are made to STRIKE steel and not damage it. If someone tells me a soft cleaning rod damaged their barrel... Plus all of those copper bullets that get deformed by the rifling!!
It's not the soft cleaning rod, it's the hard impurities that can become embedded in the soft brass. Workmate puposely "recrowned" his .22 with a brass screw and lapping paste as an extreme example.
 
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If you pour sand or lapping paste on the thing sure. Those are both harder than the steel. If one is really worried about it just wipe the rod down with oil or cleaner before use.
 
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Maritime Storm, Regardless of how you decide to clean your rimfire just remember that the most important is to keep the action/bolt clean. Generally 22 rimfire barrels need NOT be cleaned everytime you shoot. I myself solvent clean mine every 4-6 months. If you shoot for groups using various brands of 22 just dress the bore first by shooting about 30 rounds of that brand before you get serious about groupings. In addition I still stress not to get the crown dinged and if you have a bolt action clean from the breech end instead of the front like carbines. If you have any more questions all your answers can be had by looking at: rimfirecentral.com Everything you need/answers are their and read by serious rimfire shooters. Take care, Durango
 
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A Plus 1 Durango. More info there than most can imagine. Also try Benchrest Central.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Durango
Regardless of how you decide to clean your rimfire just remember that the most important is to keep the action/bolt clean.
There's an oft repeated even at our range (rimfire competition). A guy starts having a load of mis-fires, and a wise oldster comes out with a can of WD-40...this'll fix'er, it always does. Sure enough, it works, and then 3-4 months later, the same guys starts having misfires, and out comes the WD-40. I make a "2-stroke" mix of ATF and paint thinners, soak and scrub to get the residue off, and thinners dry leaving a very light film of ATF....not WD40 earwax.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Durango
In addition I still stress not to get the crown dinged and if you have a bolt action clean from the breech end instead of the front like carbines.
I think you might be mis-using the term carbine.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Shannow
 Originally Posted By: Durango
Regardless of how you decide to clean your rimfire just remember that the most important is to keep the action/bolt clean.
There's an oft repeated even at our range (rimfire competition). A guy starts having a load of mis-fires, and a wise oldster comes out with a can of WD-40...this'll fix'er, it always does. Sure enough, it works, and then 3-4 months later, the same guys starts having misfires, and out comes the WD-40. I make a "2-stroke" mix of ATF and paint thinners, soak and scrub to get the residue off, and thinners dry leaving a very light film of ATF....not WD40 earwax.
Shannow, If he drowns his bolt and trigger group in WD-40 it'll work for a short time. All it'll do is collect more fouling into the action!!! Better carefully clean and oil in a precision way instead of spraying. Durango
 
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 Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
 Originally Posted By: Durango
In addition I still stress not to get the crown dinged and if you have a bolt action clean from the breech end instead of the front like carbines.
I think you might be mis-using the term carbine.
chevrofreak, I consider all my semi-autos to be considered a carbine. "Short barreled semi-auto" is considered a carbine. My bolt actions are what I call rifles. Durango
 
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