Cleaned Intake Valves for My 2 Subarus

[Al]

please provide pictures of your “facts”. Before and after valve condition and carbon removal. The only thing you removed was money from your wallet. FACT.

I never sait it was "proven" to do the job. You are the one that said it "wasn't cleaning much of anything"
Please reread my posts.
But here is before and after data:

 

[doublebase]

I never sait it was "proven" to do the job. You are the one that said it "wasn't cleaning much of anything"
Please reread my posts.
But here is before and after data:

Here’s me letting a carboned coated valve sit in CRC for three hours, before taking it out and spraying one ENTIRE CAN OF CRC DIRECTLY on the backside carbon coated section. Then I heated the valve up with a blow torch to 300 degrees (surprised I didn’t ignite the thing). And then sprayed another entire can directly on to the valve.

I only did this^^ because for years I used these types of cleaners working in the trade, and would eventually have to take apart engines and notice what they actually “cleaned” and it was basically nothing. But like I said, I’m happy for you. I‘m sorry I’m coming off rude. And I have come off rude, it’s just that when you see the results of things over and over and over again. You don’t like those results.

 

[nicholas]

please provide pictures of your “facts”. Before and after valve condition and carbon removal. The only thing you removed was money from your wallet. FACT.

Pictures?????

CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner | CRC Industries

www.crcindustries.com

I have used it on many cars - - It indeed does remove carbon, I did a boroscore before and after.
It seems to do a full clean on valves after 7 days of driving after application.
I scoped it once a day - - - that was back in the day before kids.
Had so much time.

 

[nicholas]

Here’s me letting a carboned coated valve sit in CRC for three hours, before taking it out and spraying one ENTIRE CAN OF CRC DIRECTLY on the backside carbon coated section. Then I heated the valve up with a blow torch to 300 degrees (surprised I didn’t ignite the thing). And then sprayed another entire can directly on to the valve.

I only did this^^ because for years I used these types of cleaners working in the trade, and would eventually have to take apart engines and notice what they actually “cleaned” and it was basically nothing. But like I said, I’m happy for you. I‘m sorry I’m coming off rude. And I have come off rude, it’s just that when you see the results of things over and over and over again. You don’t like those results.

Not really using the product as intended here..........

 

[Al]

Here’s me letting a carboned coated valve sit in CRC for three hours, before taking it out and spraying one

What CRC product are you using? I see by the can its not the CRC GDI IVD

 

[doublebase]

Not really using the product as intended here..........

Yeah, I tried to duplicate it as much as I could (actually heating the valve up with a torch), but you’re right. Still, I let it soak, I agitated the valve back and forth in that CRC with a vice grip (probably got myself 10,000 steps on my Fitbit). Heated it. Let it cool. Sprayed multiple bottles directly on to it. Barely any improvement at all. Granted the valve is pretty coked with carbon, but carbon is just so hard to remove unless you physically do it. IMO

 

[doublebase]

What CRC product are you using? I see by the can its not the CRC GDI IVD

The can you see as I’m pouring is CRC engine treatment (it’s their version of Seafoam). And when I’m actually spraying directly on to the valve it’s CRC the GDI

 

[Al]

The can you see as I’m pouring is CRC engine treatment (it’s their version of Seafoam). And when I’m actually spraying directly on to the valve it’s CRC the GDI

I don't think that product is comparable to the GDI IVD. It has no PEA

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I saw last night that the Crosstrek in that foreign land of Canada was the quietest out of 13 vehicles in the same segment.
Ranked better than the new Corolla Cross for interior materials and engine noise and ride.

I am speaking in absolute terms. Yes it is quieter - but it's scrappy car-ness is gone.
But if you don't want scrappy car-ness then - there you go.

Maybe some of us don't like our Subaru Maturing.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I have been using it on both of them since new. I could give a rats a$$ about the lower bypass.

I agree with AL on the lower bypass. Its probably a benefit. I think the high bypass dates back to the screens in the turbo banjo oil feed fitting as they used to get clogged. Maybe now it relates to VVT also - I don't know if there is a feed screen before the VVT.

I didn't like the Ultra I ran on my wife's new Outback last OCI; The gasket glued itself to the block. Had a hard time loosening it even with a big filter wrench. I actually thought it was cross threaded it was so bad. So it was back to the Blue painted Fram U.S. franchise service replacement part.

Al should be using a Tokyo Roki on his Turbo. If I couldn't source one easily, I would be at the local Mazda dealer getting a few.

 

[nicholas]

Yeah, I tried to duplicate it as much as I could (actually heating the valve up with a torch), but you’re right. Still, I let it soak, I agitated the valve back and forth in that CRC with a vice grip (probably got myself 10,000 steps on my Fitbit). Heated it. Let it cool. Sprayed multiple bottles directly on to it. Barely any improvement at all. Granted the valve is pretty coked with carbon, but carbon is just so hard to remove unless you physically do it. IMO

According to the CRC literature and video.
The product clean over 7 days of driving, afyer initial application, to slowly remove carbon from valves and combustion chambers.
So heating and soaking is not really as intended.

I noticed an observable difference over 7 days using CRC that was good enough for me.
I have used it on many vehicles since.

 

[kschachn]

Marketing materials aside, was there an indication that this engine required cleaning and if so how much did it do for your engine?

 

[billt460]

I put this stuff into the same category as 99% of most of the additives you see on the shelf in the automotive section of any parts store.

1.) You buy and use them in good faith, hoping they do what they claim.

2.) You have absolutely no idea if they're doing any good or not. But you think they are. (Placebo Effect).

Chances are you're most likely getting hosed. I started using Gumout Multi System Tuneup with PEA, along with Techron. (I alternate between both). I figured it can't hurt, and it's basically "keeping on top of it", as far as keeping the engine and combustion chambers clean. I've seen a few Scotty Kilmer videos where he uses a camera through a spark plug hole, and "proves" that it has done some cleaning on the top surface of the pistons.

But as far as valves and such, who knows? Is it worth the money? Again who knows. I always have used the cheapest "Fuel Injector Cleaner" I could find in my 1991 F-150. (5.0 V-8). And 30 years, and 160,000+ miles later it runs as smooth as the day I bought it. Is it because I used the cleaner? I don't know. I'd like to think so.

But the sad reality is I probably just wasted my money. Because I'm sure someone knows their buddy's sisters cousin who drove 250,000 miles with the same vehicle, and never did a thing to it.

Remember "Prolong". People can claim it worked because their engines lasted longer than the product did. I haven't seen it in years. When it came out it was everywhere..... And yes, I bought that crap too.

 

[john_pifer]

Remember "Prolong". People can claim it worked because their engines lasted longer than the product did. I haven't seen it in years. When it came out it was everywhere..... And yes, I bought that crap too.

Oh I used it.

Had a Valvoline Instant Oil Change forget the oil drain plug once on my 1987 Maxima (this was around 1998 or so).

That was back when I was about 18 and didn’t know much about cars. But I did believe in good oil (I would go buy Mobil 1, along with some kind of additive like Prolong or Slick 50 or DuraLube, and take it to the oil change place and have them change it for me).

Anyway, I drove it home, and told my dad it was making a weird noise. Not being a car guy himself, he told me to drive it up to Firestone. I did, and he followed me up there and we dropped it off. Less than an hour later, Firestone called and said it had no drain plug and no oil. They said They’d installed a drain plug and refilled with oil, and it cranked right up and quit knocking!

Good as new! I drove it every day for the next several years with no issues before selling it.

Was that due to the Prolong, DuraLube, Slick 50, and M1 I’d used? No idea.

 

[doublebase]

According to the CRC literature and video.
The product clean over 7 days of driving, afyer initial application, to slowly remove carbon from valves and combustion chambers.
So heating and soaking is not really as intended.

I noticed an observable difference over 7 days using CRC that was good enough for me.
I have used it on many vehicles since.

No no, I really liked the marketing promotional video of their own product to potential shop owners. With claims of cleaning “up to 48%” within the first hour. The other side of a study would be the 0%. But when it’s a promotional video put out by the manufacturer for marketing purposes, you don’t mention that (because you’d be fired).

Here’s the thing...a week worth of cold weather starts “probably“ also ”cleans up to 48%”, just by condensation going through the PCV system and into the manifold, on to the backside of valves. It’d also possibly do 0%. And every percentage in between.

Carbon coking is a problem, I agree, but carbon is one of the hardest substances on earth. I wouldn’t put any faith in promotional videos from a manufacturer making claims of up to_____%. In statistics that is a very misleading study.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

....

Carbon coking is a problem, I agree, but carbon is one of the hardest substances on earth. I wouldn’t put any faith in promotional videos from a manufacturer making claims of up to_____%. In statistics that is a very misleading study.

Actually in graphite form, carbon is one of the softest near talc. Carbon is of course hard in diamond cubic form. I don't think your engine is forming diamonds on the intake valves. I bet some of that crust include formed minerals and botton distillates and tars given all the sulfur, carbon, and organo-metallics available.

This is all a big challenge - maybe worse than that pesky soap scum in the shower. At least we can access soap scum.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I put this stuff into the same category as 99% of most of the additives you see on the shelf in the automotive section of any parts store.

.....

I have used CRC professional products for decade and in the garage. Their CRC 5-56 was a the penetrant of choice over WD-40
along with Brākleen and MAF cleaner, TBI cleaner and Carb cleaner, Wire Dryer, and Sta Lube.
I am sure they are better performing in their category than seafoam or motor medic or Lucas injector lube - Ken

 

[circuitsmith]

Here's someone not so happy with valve cleaner spray:

CRC GDI Valve Cleaner Trial - Before and After (Never Again)

CRC GDI Valve Cleaner Trial - Before and After (Never Again)

www.scannerdanner.com

 

[ARCOgraphite]

GDI = not ready for prime time.

 

[Al]

Maintenance. Just did it again bc I forgot to not it on the "MySubaru.com" maintenance. Oh well. no biggee. Did lots of smoking. I will attempt to look at the valves with my fiber optics tomorrow!