If I have always ran Mobil 1 in my car since it was new, would I ever need to worry about running auto-rx in it? I sure wouldn't think so, but I want to make sure I got it right, as I love my car and want it to last a looooooong time.
Clean enough engine
- Thread starter DriveHard
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if you have been using synthetic than no don't worry about it but if it was dino (mobil1 or any other doesn't matter) you might want to.
Yes, I have been running Mobil 1 Synthetic since shortly after buying it brand new.
JHZR2
Staff member
some would have you believe that after even 5 minutes of operation, a car's engine is totally dirty. I dont buy this.
However, it is common sense to recognize that there is junk that goes into the oil, and even when you cahnge your oil you dont get it all. It WILL add up
That said, if you treat your car right, do your PM, and have access to reasonably decent quality fuel, likely in a typical lifespan of an engine, you wont need any cleaners. My MB oil pan and valves didnt even have varnish after 200k miles (it was a diesel engine). My father and GF have cars with well over 150k, and I have removed valve covers and oil pans, and not seen any sludge, and barely any varnish. These engines had at least 150k on dino oil before changing to syn oil (M1). The key? THese cars were well maintained and driven reasonably gently (as best as NJ driving can allow).
Other than my saab, all of the cars I drive and help maintain have at least 50k miles on them, with the average mileage around 120k miles. With the exception of two of them, all were owned since new, and all of them have full maintenance records. None have sludge, or anything more than the slightest hint of yellow varnish.
So do I think cleaners are necessary? Not really, unless you have an engine because of your use profile or the engines build is prone to sludging... or the engine had less than perfect care.
I have seen what LC can do in improving UOA results. So maintenance doses appear to be a good thing. I have seen what auto-rx can do for dirty engines, and its good. But, for joe consumer, nothing more than a maintenance dose of either should be necessary... but remember... verify for your driving profile in your climate and your driving style. Someone may be harder on theri oil amd someone easier.
If I was wrong, all of our cars over 150k ought to have been way below EPA mileage estimates, run poorly, foul plugs, return poor UOA results, fail emissions, etc., etc. They dont, and in fact perform quite excelently. This speaks volumes to me.
Get a maintenance dose of LC and / or Auto-rx, and use it for PM. Sleep easy knowing itll remain clean... then trust but verify, to ensure that it remains clean. If not, use a bit more, if so, youre good to go.
JMH
[ August 02, 2005, 10:37 AM: Message edited by: JHZR2 ]
However, it is common sense to recognize that there is junk that goes into the oil, and even when you cahnge your oil you dont get it all. It WILL add up
That said, if you treat your car right, do your PM, and have access to reasonably decent quality fuel, likely in a typical lifespan of an engine, you wont need any cleaners. My MB oil pan and valves didnt even have varnish after 200k miles (it was a diesel engine). My father and GF have cars with well over 150k, and I have removed valve covers and oil pans, and not seen any sludge, and barely any varnish. These engines had at least 150k on dino oil before changing to syn oil (M1). The key? THese cars were well maintained and driven reasonably gently (as best as NJ driving can allow).
Other than my saab, all of the cars I drive and help maintain have at least 50k miles on them, with the average mileage around 120k miles. With the exception of two of them, all were owned since new, and all of them have full maintenance records. None have sludge, or anything more than the slightest hint of yellow varnish.
So do I think cleaners are necessary? Not really, unless you have an engine because of your use profile or the engines build is prone to sludging... or the engine had less than perfect care.
I have seen what LC can do in improving UOA results. So maintenance doses appear to be a good thing. I have seen what auto-rx can do for dirty engines, and its good. But, for joe consumer, nothing more than a maintenance dose of either should be necessary... but remember... verify for your driving profile in your climate and your driving style. Someone may be harder on theri oil amd someone easier.
If I was wrong, all of our cars over 150k ought to have been way below EPA mileage estimates, run poorly, foul plugs, return poor UOA results, fail emissions, etc., etc. They dont, and in fact perform quite excelently. This speaks volumes to me.
Get a maintenance dose of LC and / or Auto-rx, and use it for PM. Sleep easy knowing itll remain clean... then trust but verify, to ensure that it remains clean. If not, use a bit more, if so, youre good to go.
JMH
[ August 02, 2005, 10:37 AM: Message edited by: JHZR2 ]
if there is an engine capable of tearing up mobil 1 then yes, a since new mobil 1 user may need ARX.
such engines would be rare but they surely exist.
such engines would be rare but they surely exist.
hi, for the low cost of auto-rx, or other treatments, on a vehicle you plan to keep, i would do one very 30-50k, well worth the cost and over the life of vehicle the cost is barely .5% of total ownership, i do it to all my vehicles at 10k, just my style, i wouild rather change oil or treatments then rebuild it,...............and even with synthetics, engines do eventually wear out..
DriveHard,
I agree with Benjamming. We need a little more information.
What car and what OCI?
If you have a "sludgemonster" engine and 30k miles OCI's..you might need ARX. On the other hand, I agree that if you've run oci's of around 5k miles with just about any engine (absent mechanical problems) you're probably ok.
I just did ARX at 30K miles, but I was freaked out by the 2 12k miles OCI's that the previous owner (and BMW) thought were appropriate. By 1200 miles into the ARX rinse phase, the oil is still crystal clear, and the filter looks brand new (in other words, maybe didn't need ARX)...but I have peace of mind.
I agree with Benjamming. We need a little more information.
What car and what OCI?
If you have a "sludgemonster" engine and 30k miles OCI's..you might need ARX. On the other hand, I agree that if you've run oci's of around 5k miles with just about any engine (absent mechanical problems) you're probably ok.
I just did ARX at 30K miles, but I was freaked out by the 2 12k miles OCI's that the previous owner (and BMW) thought were appropriate. By 1200 miles into the ARX rinse phase, the oil is still crystal clear, and the filter looks brand new (in other words, maybe didn't need ARX)...but I have peace of mind.
Break down the oil? Most likely not.
Combustion byproduct forming with the oil in the ring packs to cause them to gum up? Most likely.
Synthetics just keep engines "cleaner" for longer. They don't keep them spotless.
Even if at XXXX mileage you don't see a drastic improvement with auto-rx then at least it resets the counter and helps prolong when things will really get dirty.
Combustion byproduct forming with the oil in the ring packs to cause them to gum up? Most likely.
Synthetics just keep engines "cleaner" for longer. They don't keep them spotless.
Even if at XXXX mileage you don't see a drastic improvement with auto-rx then at least it resets the counter and helps prolong when things will really get dirty.
I think useing Auto-Rx is a good idea. I do not think that it is needed as often as some suggest though! I think that if I was running synthetics all the time that I would consider useing Auto-Rx every 70,000-100,000 miles just for good measure. I think that keeping the ring pack,pickup screen and seals clean is worth the $$ investment. Seeing how you have owned it since new and only used Mobil synthetic it is more then likely preety clean. The area's that are prone to build of contaminets are the same with synthetic or dino. The key difference are the rate of accumulation.
How about under severe (urban) driving conditions? I treat most of the mile numbers in my owner's manual maintenance schedule as though they were kms. With a 1.8T with only a 4-qt. oil capacity and city driving, I still think a 3K mi. OCI is prudent, even with Mobil 1 0W-40.
What car & what OCI?
JHZR2
Staff member
97TJ:
If that's your style, then its A-OK... however, it sounds like you do a darn good job with PM anyway, if youre going to these lengths...
Chances are some other variety of high dollar value problems will come and haunt you long before your engine needs rebuilding... whether or not additives are used.
JMH
If that's your style, then its A-OK... however, it sounds like you do a darn good job with PM anyway, if youre going to these lengths...
Chances are some other variety of high dollar value problems will come and haunt you long before your engine needs rebuilding... whether or not additives are used.
JMH
All engines produce byproducts. Even if you run a quality synthetic depending on OCI and how you use the vechile you will always get some deposits. The real difference between synthetic and dino is the rate of build up. Their is no way to avoid deposits 100%!!! THe other benifitis to synthetics is HTHS to MRV ratio. You can get an oil that will pump down to some really low temp.'s and still maintain a healthy HTHS! THey when you add the beefier additive package in some cases and fewer deposits you get a great longterm product.
I am a fan of Redline and my decision is not based on wear metals. I like an oil that leaves very little of itself behind. I am wiling to give up a little bit of wear metal PPM for a cleaner engine. Now I mostly use M1 due to price and availablity. If money and availability were no object then I would have to go with Redline,Synergen, and S3K! Nothing like a clean engine!
I am a fan of Redline and my decision is not based on wear metals. I like an oil that leaves very little of itself behind. I am wiling to give up a little bit of wear metal PPM for a cleaner engine. Now I mostly use M1 due to price and availablity. If money and availability were no object then I would have to go with Redline,Synergen, and S3K! Nothing like a clean engine!
The only concern I have is the piston ring lands, and the rings. [Your car and mine]
Regular LC use should help this area a lot, as well as an A RX treatment, if there is an obvious problem.
Regular LC use should help this area a lot, as well as an A RX treatment, if there is an obvious problem.
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