Clamp vs weld exhaust, can you weld a new muffler

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to old pipes?

Mine rusted out at the resonator, just behind the resonator body rusted off at the outlet pipe. 1996 ES300, original muffler and resonator, cat and flex pipe assembly replaced about 3 years ago.

If welding new muffler to old pipe isn't feasible, would clamps work well? It doesn't seem able to just weld the resonator back together because it broke right at the outlet, so nothing to grab on to, and thus the tin can trick is probably out of consideration, too.
 
IMO exhaust work is one thing thats worth paying to have done. Why spend all day laying in the dirt getting rust in your eyes when you can sit in a warm lounge at a muffler shop,drinking free coffee? Muffler shops dont charge a whole lot.
 
Tin can trick lasts a couple days but this ought to last a long time:
VIB_1172.jpg

Just google for exhaust sleeve clamps
 
It can be welded, but keep in mind the metal is thin so you have to be very careful not to burn a hole through your metal.

Consider as well the safety of your repair. If you live in the Great White North, you definitely don't want any kind of exhaust leak in your system. We wouldn't want to read about your demise during a blizzard because of exhaust fumes.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
IMO exhaust work is one thing thats worth paying to have done. Why spend all day laying in the dirt getting rust in your eyes when you can sit in a warm lounge at a muffler shop,drinking free coffee? Muffler shops dont charge a whole lot.


100% agree!
I've done my own exhaust work and it isn't fun at all.
You're right in that indie exhaust shops don't charge a whole lot and guys who know how to bend pipe to fit and weld it up can do the job in no time flat.
 
Yep,

Best $20 I ever spent was when I had the local exhaust shop R&R the bolts to the factory catback on my SVT Contour. The replaced the bolts and attached them a bit more than finger tight so all I had to do was remove them, drop the factory system and bolt up the Borla exhaust I purchased.

Kinda of the best of both worlds. They did the hard part with the hot wrench. I did the easy part in my driveway.

Originally Posted By: Chris142
IMO exhaust work is one thing thats worth paying to have done. Why spend all day laying in the dirt getting rust in your eyes when you can sit in a warm lounge at a muffler shop,drinking free coffee? Muffler shops dont charge a whole lot.
 
I find shops do not do exhaust the way I want it done, so it is better to do it myself. Of course I don't go with standard routing, but like it to turn out in front of the rear tire. Shops often won't get the tail pipe or outlet pipe right, but will leave it too low to catch on things. You really need to be right there to watch them do it.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
IMO exhaust work is one thing thats worth paying to have done. Why spend all day laying in the dirt getting rust in your eyes when you can sit in a warm lounge at a muffler shop,drinking free coffee? Muffler shops dont charge a whole lot.
+ 1 to that. I'd rather work on brakes, or almost anything else.
 
Likewise. We do everything in house except transmissions (we R&R them) and exhausts, good pipes are a must.

Properly done a good exhaust lasts the life of the vehicle down here...
 
We usually never have to replace the exhaust on our cars.
The only failures that we typically see involve the flex pipe and any good shop can cut that out and weld in a new one for reasonable bucks.
Exhaust systems rust from the inside out, so the way in which we typically use our vehicles, which are rarely short-tripped, probably helps to prolong the life of the exhaust system.
I've seen exhaust failures on short-tripped cars in as little as three years from new.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
to old pipes?

Mine rusted out at the resonator, just behind the resonator body rusted off at the outlet pipe. 1996 ES300, original muffler and resonator, cat and flex pipe assembly replaced about 3 years ago.

If welding new muffler to old pipe isn't feasible, would clamps work well? It doesn't seem able to just weld the resonator back together because it broke right at the outlet, so nothing to grab on to, and thus the tin can trick is probably out of consideration, too.


VW doesn't mind using clamps from the factory.

370434_x600.jpg
 
New to old? I've done it the one time that I had some work done.

Exhaust systems seem to bolt together in segments, so it's probably best to just replace the segment.
 
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I find shops do not do exhaust the way I want it done, so it is better to do it myself. Of course I don't go with standard routing, but like it to turn out in front of the rear tire. Shops often won't get the tail pipe or outlet pipe right, but will leave it too low to catch on things. You really need to be right there to watch them do it.


Ding, ding, ding!

I had to return to one shop FOUR TIMES in less than
18 months because the idiots couldn't figure out how to
properly replace hanger mounts on my ordinary 96 VW Golf 2L.

The insane thing is that after the first few times of them using
OLD STYLE german rubber hangers that were designed for a
1974-84 Rabbit, (too weak and thin) I SHOWED HIM THE DIAGRAM FROM THE FACTORY MANUAL SO HE COULD SEE WHAT HE NEEDED TO USE TO DO THE JOB PROPERLY...well he replies, "oh, lets worry about this when the time comes"...he proceeds to use the same old inadequate rubber hangers YET AGAIN! (God forbid I tell him what to do after all, I might damage his stupid ego!) well about 4 months later I'm back again, and he finally has proper hangers and has the gall to try and charge me for the replacement!

Most auto repair shops are next to useless.
 
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
You really need to be right there to watch them do it.


The one I go to (which is the ONLY one in my whole area able to weld 304 stainless together) actually WANTS you to watch so that they can adjust the height, and the extension/tip/turndown/etc. to EXACTLY how YOU, the customer wants it, as opposed to how they feel like doing it at other shops.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Well I really just want a Magnaflow glasspack as a resonator and a Dynomax muffler in the stock positions, otherwise stock routing.

I don't need 304.

How much should the install cost if I supply the mufflers but not the pipes and hardware?
 
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