Chevy Venture 3.4 Dexcool Saga

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Last week i get a call from my father saying his low coolant light is on,i tell him to bring it in for a look. Its a 2000 Venture 3.4 V6 with 100K

He had been driving like this for a week, he said he couldn't get the cap off so he just filled the overflow bottle with Dexcool and kept driving.

I opened the cap and found dex sludge in an almost empty radiator. I decided to swap the heads out because he overheated the top end so bad, good thing one had cracks in the valve pocket, both were warped. No coolant got into the oil but it did get into the cylinders.

So 2 new heads and a good set of gaskets and it should be fine, problem is its a Venture and a real PITA to do this job on.

After almost a whole day of swearing and cussing it is down to the block, but there are some interesting observations I noted on this engine.

He does (I do) change the oil if he remembers every 5k with 5W-30 dino of any major brand he picks up cheap at wallys,he uses AC Delco filters.
He tanks Shell regular since new because its right next to his house and never uses additional additives.
Last year I did 2 full 3k ARX cycles because it looked pretty sad under the valve covers.

Now I have the engines top end in bits, the valve train look no different then before the ARX.Even in high oil flow areas like the lifter valley there is build up.
Strangely the build up is worse on the front head than the rear.

The valve stems, faces and piston heads had zero carbon buildup and were shiny again with just a wipe down of oil.
The cylinder bores are perfect, no ridge and the original pattern can still be seen on the walls.

Because its such a bear to work on I am changing the O2 sensors and replacing the injectors with rebuilt units as well as the thermostat, hoses and whatever else looks
like half the motor has to come out to change.

Will refill with Peak green coolant.

My own conclusions are..
The Dino did its job of controlling wear but dropped the ball in the deposit control area due to his stop and go driving and sometimes neglected OCI.
Maybe synthetic will work better in this app.

Fuel additives are not needed in any way in this engine running the fuel he uses.

ARX was for all intents and purposes was of questionable value.

Top engine cleaning on this engine would be just a waste of time; it never had one since new.
IMO this engine would have been perfect (sans dexcool issue)with no additives of any kind if he had just used a little higher quality oil.
Opinions?
 
What about shortening his OCI to compensate for his Short driving?
 
Just because it got into the cylinders doe not mean it didnt get it to the oil. I just did head gaskets on the same engine in the same body. It popped for coolant in the oil in a UOA with coolant leaking into the cylinders. It nuked the oil so bad in 2500 miles insolubles was .8%; it was beginning to turn to sludge.
The fact it has sludge after blowing through a radiators worth of coolant, overheated the engine so bad the heads cracked along with a sometimes OCI does not surprise me in the least.
 
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I agree that it's hard to say how long the coolant has been seeping into the engine through IMG and maybe even HG. The coolant was low and engine overheated so it's hard to say that the sludge didn't develop because of that. But I'm inclined to think that the short trip driving could be a candidate for shorter OCI with dino. now that it has new gaskets and good head seal, the oil will probably do a much better job.

I think Shell gas does a good job of keeping the fuel system clean.
 
The clean pistons could have been due to the coolant. The 3.1's and 3.4's are excellent little engines and Dex Cool is okay if you ignore the extended fill advertising... The wife has a 3.1 in her car currently at 234,000 miles and cruising along getting 27mpg. It's taken no major work with the exception intake gaskets.

Speaking of intake gaskets, make sure you get the metal backed ones. Also since you want to replace the injectors, there's a place out of Florida called Precision Auto Injectors that has a set for those engines really cheap- many times cheaper than the parts stores. The only reason I know that is because I'm looking to drop a set in our car (along with a rebuilt engine).
 
I did an oil change last month on this and didn't notice anything unusual; even now the oil had no milky color and didn't creep up the dipstick. Its possible that a slight amount got into the oil over time but it seems to have been minimal.I will do a UOA on this drain oil,i think it will probably show some coolant.


The pistons where the leak occurred didn't need any wiping at all to come perfectly clean, which i expected but the other pistons were very clean also.

A shorter OCI is a good idea. I just need to remind him somehow, he pays no attention to the OCI reminder i put on the windshield.

It does use a chain not a belt.

I am using felpro steel backed intake gaskets.

We have a ASNU machine here, one of my guys goes out once a month to a few yards to grab injector sets we can rebuild. His old ones will end up getting redone and go in the next one.

I just wish he had told me about toping off the overflow bottle sooner. But its par for the course, the only time I see his cars is when they are broken down unless I pester my mother to have him bring it in for a service. Both are in their late 70’s.
 
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Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
I'd do the timing belt if its not a chain.


3.4s don't have timing belts -- you been driving imports too long.

OP, sounds like a typical 3.4. Any piston slap?
 
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Then if he has difficulty remembering his OCI, a cheap synthetic like NAPA, Supertech, or anything on sale may be good for a added "opps" barrier. ST synthetic is like 19 bucks at wal mart.
 
Originally Posted By: defektes
Then if he has difficulty remembering his OCI, a cheap synthetic like NAPA, Supertech, or anything on sale may be good for a added "opps" barrier. ST synthetic is like 19 bucks at wal mart.

I second that. QS Synthetic (Ultimate Durability) is $18 for 5 qrts at Wal-Mart.
 
That sounds like the way to go,just something to buffer the forgotten OCI.If i never see another one of these van things again it will be too soon.
 
My parent's 03 Venture had to have the IMG changed due to Dexcool at around 90k. It's over 103k now and runs good. BTW, they've never changed the AT fluid (not my decision) and it shifts good. I've taken over alot of the work on it after the IMG was changed. It's held up well mechanically, but looks pretty bad visually. Much of that is my parents not caring for it like they should.
 
Coincidentally, I spoke to a local used car dealer (who has a decent reputation) a couple of days ago who was telling me to never touch the Venture or the Montana because of the difficulty of working on that engine. His opinion, for what it's worth, was that the vans are more prone to the IMG problem than the cars, for some reason.
 
Getting the swine apart was the biggest PITA because of rotten manifold studs where the nut heads had rusted down and seized bolts.
Going back together is easier but still not something i am looking forward to doing again.
 
Well, I am finally beginning to think that the 3.1 and 3.4s were the most Dexcool trouble-prone engines by far. I don't think a single one driven over 75k miles hasn't had to have IMGs replaced. Those were some pretty sorry IMGs.
 
It really was a sorry IMG. Some of the 4.3's and V8's got a similar IMG, and with an iron head and cap on the radiator they probably faired worse. The 3100/3400 with aluminum head and a presurized reservoir in the L and N cars like the cutlass, Malibu, alero, grand am, mostly just leaked and didn't rust or sludge up. With good gaskets it really is a pretty good engine.
 
It isn't the Dexcool that causes these gaskets to fail, it's a faulty design by GM. I have a '95 Monte Carlo with the 3100 and it's never seen Dexcool, yet had the gasket fail at ~70,000 miles. Mechanic changed the gaskets (using the cheap plastic ones, ugh), and now they've failed again at 140,000 miles. My engine has overheated a few times now, so rather than do the job over again and risk having warped heads, I'm simply going to replace the 3100 with a 3400, since they can be obtained for pretty cheap at most junkyards, and replace the LIM (lower intake manifold) gaskets with the Felpro metal ones.
 
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