Chevy Spark 1.4 M1 EP UOA

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We put 150k on the 1.4 Turbo … every mile with Hengst cartridge filters and mostly M1 5w30 to 100k …
M1 0w40 euro after 100k … Ran good and transmission was solid when traded …
(ATF change is important in these)
This would be the 2016+ 1.4T in the Cruze. Which has a metal spin on filter.
 

jeffh19

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Mar 29, 2007
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St. Louis, MO
Thanks for the info ! and that is insane mileage on the cruze never would have thought ...
Right. The 12-15 Eco with a sticks are the only ones. They had a seperate transmission that was geared stupid low. Motor Trend had a MPG shootout and they had a chart showing the Cruze Eco with a stick was still getting its rated 42mpg at like 82mph or so. It was just stupid.
 

jeffh19

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We put 150k on the 1.4 Turbo … every mile with Hengst cartridge filters and mostly M1 5w30 to 100k …
M1 0w40 euro after 100k … Ran good and transmission was solid when traded …
(ATF change is important in these)
My 1.4t in the Cruze, same as the sonic engine took 5w30. Speaking of which how do you feel on 30 vs a 40 weight in the 1.4T? Did you just switch with "higher" mileage or do you think no matter what, its a better choice for a 1.4t? My dad has a 13 Cruze Eco auto with 60k or so and he asked me about maybe switching to a 0w40 due to the turbo/heat. I was telling him how reading on here over the years from UOAs that the 1.4t absolutely shreds/cooks oil. I think most synthetics were done at 7500, which is why he asked if a 0w40 would be better.

Anyway, the 1.4 NA calls for 0w20 instead of a 5w30 that the 1.4t does which also makes me wonder how different they are or why, other than just a play for extra MPG.

Also...Are you referring to an AT or a CVT? The Spark has the CVT, which I've read is super important to get changed at 45k or so, then you wont have issues. I did that and am going to maybe have them use Amsoil CVT fluid. My dad's Cruze is probably due for an ATF change, are you referring to the standard auto that I'm assuming is the same between the Cruze and Sonic, or the CVT in the Spark?
 

4WD

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My 1.4t in the Cruze, same as the sonic engine took 5w30. Speaking of which how do you feel on 30 vs a 40 weight in the 1.4T? Did you just switch with "higher" mileage or do you think no matter what, its a better choice for a 1.4t? My dad has a 13 Cruze Eco auto with 60k or so and he asked me about maybe switching to a 0w40 due to the turbo/heat. I was telling him how reading on here over the years from UOAs that the 1.4t absolutely shreds/cooks oil. I think most synthetics were done at 7500, which is why he asked if a 0w40 would be better.

Anyway, the 1.4 NA calls for 0w20 instead of a 5w30 that the 1.4t does which also makes me wonder how different they are or why, other than just a play for extra MPG.

Also...Are you referring to an AT or a CVT? The Spark has the CVT, which I've read is super important to get changed at 45k or so, then you wont have issues. I did that and am going to maybe have them use Amsoil CVT fluid. My dad's Cruze is probably due for an ATF change, are you referring to the standard auto that I'm assuming is the same between the Cruze and Sonic, or the CVT in the Spark?
We had a 2013 with a 6 speed … 0W40 worked well …
 

jeffh19

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How many miles on the car?

agree 25000 doable on same usage case. iron is below universal averages on ppm/ per mile basis
So you dont think its an issue? I see the number and the average number, I just dont have any context on how high of a number is a concern or whatever. I reached out to Blackstone to see what they have to say regarding the results specifically about the iron, running longer and maybe filter
 

jeffh19

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I wonder if you would get better results with a Fram ultra since they filter better? 25k would be interesting to see if you are willing to give it a shot.
Ya...given a couple comments in this thread, seeing most people/the dealer runs a PF64 and maybe thats even accepted from GM now...

That after the Ultraguard I bought run out, I'll run Fram Ultras since I'm going so long and they are supposed to be even better. I think I read on here that the Ultraguard Golds are basically Mobil 1s with 1 different thing that wasn't as good. Maybe if I change my oil leading up to the coldest months, I could use a UPF64R then if super cold starts are where the most concern is.
 
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So you dont think its an issue?

I do not in this instance.

I see the number and the average number, I just dont have any context on how high of a number is a concern or whatever. I reached out to Blackstone to see what they have to say regarding the results specifically about the iron, running longer and maybe filter

So (I'm pulling numbers out of the air here) if 10PPM is the Universal Average at 10,000 miles that 1ppm per 1000 so somewhere around 20PPM @ 20,000 would be reasonable.

Ya...given a couple comments in this thread, seeing most people/the dealer runs a PF64 and maybe thats even accepted from GM now...

That after the Ultraguard I bought run out, I'll run Fram Ultras since I'm going so long and they are supposed to be even better. I think I read on here that the Ultraguard Golds are basically Mobil 1s with 1 different thing that wasn't as good. Maybe if I change my oil leading up to the coldest months, I could use a UPF64R then if super cold starts are where the most concern is.

I think GM and most of the aftermarket have raised the bypass on the filters that cross-reference to UPF64. In some cases there is now more than one filter part number - one for GMs and one for other cars that previously used the same filter.
 

jeffh19

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Whoever said iron is high did not pay attention to the mileage. 11ppm for 20k miles is excellent, full stop.
ya I emailed Blackstone and they were saying its nothing to worry about at all. They also said they dont really see a benefit or difference to someone switching filters halfway through either. So I might just run a Fram Ultra all the way through next time. Maybe use my remaining Ultraguards during the winter just to make sure the pressure is right.

Although, if I dont change the filter, I lose the benefit of freshening up the oil though which may be a huge reason it works so well with my long run.
 
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CVT. As I said, I drive like 55 the entire way and I probably average about 48, I've gotten into the 50s several times too. If I'm driving 70+ the MPG aint that hot at all. Upper 30s to mid 40s at more normal highway speeds I'd say. I keep the PSI at like 50psi and accelerate super slow. Basically, everyone hates me...but I try not to be too awful with people behind me. I wish it was a manual very much bad.

I used to have a Cruze Eco MT that just pulled beyond insane MPG, especially at 55 but would still do 40-50mpg at 70-80. I once got 69.9mpg from St Louis to Columbus, OH per the DIC and in the 50s and 60s on the reg driving slow/doing some hyper miling. I swear that car could coast across the entire state of Illinois when I let off the gas. I drove that car for a few years and I never once would let of the gas soon enough no matter how far back I did it. If the car didnt almost kind of require premium, and new spark plugs every time I blinked I'd get another one probably since im back to so much highway driving. (using coppers that gave better performance until I gave up and did an iridium that did better than stock but not as good as the coppers. Anyway, there's a bunch of random info you never asked for.
What happened to the Cruze?
 
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There is a bulletin out there somewhere describing why they wanted to use the UPF64R filter on the 1.4 in a couple different configurations. Including a 1.4 turbo. I believe some cars were experiencing undesirable oil bypass activation on really cold starts and the higher bypass filter would correct that.

Not sure why they don't recommend it anymore. Seems unlikely they changed the 1.4 N/A motor since then since it's really only used in the spark here in the US. But I suppose it's possible.
They changed it when the oil on the LE2 went from 5w30 to 0w20.
 
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