What a difference having a front locker makes. Nothing new to those that off-road a lot. Having just a rear is good too, but both is pretty unbeatable. ZR2 with the Duramax is the combo to get in this truck I believe due to the better 6spd automatic.
Chevy Colorado ZR2/ZR2 Bison - Most Capable Off-Road truck from factory
- Thread starter buster
- Start date
Why not the Rubicon Gladiator?
I won't argue that front and rear lockers are definitely what you need because they are, but the Colorado (and Ranger, Tacoma, Frontier) have a front suspension and steering system that's better suited under a Toyota Corolla than an offroad vehicle.
I won't argue that front and rear lockers are definitely what you need because they are, but the Colorado (and Ranger, Tacoma, Frontier) have a front suspension and steering system that's better suited under a Toyota Corolla than an offroad vehicle.
Everything is compromise. Generally live axles and actual lockers are as good as it gets for off-roading. But a front live axle doesn't handle as nice on-road.
Then you have to consider Truck or SUV, wheelbase, overhang, breakover-angle, etc., etc.
Then you have to consider Truck or SUV, wheelbase, overhang, breakover-angle, etc., etc.
One of my neighbors a few years ago had one of these beasts. His was an off red color. It would easily go where that puny Chevy wouldn't dare.
Doesn't the 2021 Ranger Tremor add more off-road clearance and suspension travel over the other Ranger 4X4's?
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
My choice would be an Accord Hybrid.
I believe so, yes. No front locker though.
For any offroading I've done, the front locker is the most important. If you're going to lock one end, front is the way to go. It'll be able to pull itself over obstacles rather than try to push dead weight in the front. Especially rock crawling
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
I own a Rubicon … but you are way over the top with that comment …
I would sort of agree.. but calling an open front differential dead weight is just not accurate.
The steering system that is prone to a phenonium called "death wobble" is the preferable choice?
I've gotten caught up in this "overlanding" charade since covid. The vehicles I've had that were 4WD, get used off-road. I'm not one to buy a 4WD and only use it to go to the supermarket. So to me it does matter.
All these vehicles have their pros/cons. The Chevy looks fantastic, has a nice diesel option and front/rear locker which gives it an advantage over the competition. The cons are the ugly interior and problematic 8spd AT, although some think that issue has been resolved (i don't). Latest gen Tacoma is running on it's historical reputation and reliability. Off road performance is great, on road not so much. The Chevy does both well. 4Runner covers most of what I'm looking at, but is ancient.
Full size are too large for my needs and the trails I go on.
All these vehicles have their pros/cons. The Chevy looks fantastic, has a nice diesel option and front/rear locker which gives it an advantage over the competition. The cons are the ugly interior and problematic 8spd AT, although some think that issue has been resolved (i don't). Latest gen Tacoma is running on it's historical reputation and reliability. Off road performance is great, on road not so much. The Chevy does both well. 4Runner covers most of what I'm looking at, but is ancient.
Full size are too large for my needs and the trails I go on.
As soon as one of the front tires unloads as you're climbing the obscacle, it's going to spin and now you're only using the rear to "push" the vehicle over.
Solid axles just hold up to it a lot better. Every steering component is much beefier. Up / down movement is handled by the control arm bushings (or leaf spring bushings) without wearing the ball joints. The only thing the ball joints do is handle turning. With an independent front / steering rack setup, you have tiny tierods, tiny ends which are not at all easily changeable when they break and the ball joints are constantly being worked.
The only exception would be a TTB Ford setup. Those used a steering box and still had good articulation while not wearing out.
Death wobble is a failure of the tracbar. 99.9999999999% of the time it is fixed with new tracbar bushings.
Brake based limited slip will mitigate that some.
I'll say the on road characteristics of my '21 Tacoma are great! It's actually more comfortable to drive than the Camry on longer trips. We take it everywhere! However this is likely due to the Bilstein shocks on the TRD OR package. The SR5 or other models might not be as comfortable. Not many here like the transmission/engine combo so it'll get constant bashing. The saying goes, there's an ass for every seat...
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
I have broken Dana 44’s in half … not IFS … You can find plenty videos with the Bison doing trails in the US and snow in Canada … not worth all these attempts to crown one …
I've put 40,000 miles on my 8 speed (GMC Canyon) since the ATF changeover done under warranty with zero problems. As far as I'm concerned that fixed the shudder issue.
I have read the fluid change fixes is too. Good to know, thanks.
Good point and I haven't read about them failing at all.
"Just wanted to throw out a little technical information on the mechanical operation of Eaton E-Lockers for those who don't know. There are a couple things to do and to avoid that will ensure a long and happy relationship with them.
On one side of the carrier is a stationary electromagnet ring.
Up against this electromagnet is another ring. The side facing the magnet is flat. On the opposite side of the ring from the electromagnet are four double ramped grooves.
Next in line after the grooved ring is the carrier housing, which has 4 sliding pins running through it. One end of these pins sit in the double ramped grooves. The other end of these pins ride on a sliding locking ring.
This locking ring is permanently engaged with the carrier housing by multiple lugs on its outer surface that slide in matching grooves on the inside of the housing. Think like a spline. This lock ring sits around the side gear, and has grooves on its inner surface that engage lugs on the outer surface of the side gear when locked. There are springs holding the lock ring in the unlocked position.
When unlocked, the grooved ring next to the electromagnet simply rotates with the carrier housing freely. When the locker is activated, it energizes the electromagnet, causing friction with the grooved ring. This friction is enough to cause the grooved ring to briefly stop, forcing the four pins to ride up the ramps. This in turn forces the pins to slide through the carrier, and push on the locking ring. The locking ring slides over and engages the side gear, and now the differential is fully locked.
The two important things to understand about all of this are:
1. It takes a partial rotation of the carrier for the locker to fully engage. (~ 1/8 of a turn)
2. When you change direction of travel the locker fully disengages and then reengages. ( ~ 1/4 turn)
This is important to realize because if this is happening under extreme load or at high speed, (as in revolutions, not mph) the locking lugs can be broken from shock loading, in extreme cases, or experience accelerated wear and rounding off.
So best practice to ensure the long and happy life of your lockers is to engage just before you will actually need them, and try to avoid rapid direction change under load with them engaged. (Think rocking while stuck in snow or mud.)
Knowing to allow about 1/8 of a revolution before having it under full torque, or about 1/4 revolution when changing direction will save you either a big headache, or shortened service life.
Here is a good video demonstrating how this is all working. FYI, Harrop is just the Eaton supplier for Australia."
