Chevron Supreme 5w30 15185mi 95Prizm Toyota 7AFE

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Well, I went to a few auto parts places and it seems that Fram is the brand that everybody has but the old PCV valve that I just took out was a Fram so I replaced it with the only thing I could find that wasn't a Fram. It is the Autozone brand, says Champion on the package so I hope it is different but when I took a close look at the actual valves right next to eachother I couldn't tell a difference so hopefully I didn't buy another Fram.

Either way, I will run this for a few thousand and see if there are any changes in consumption. If not I will track down a Purolator online or maybe get an OEM one from a dealer.
 
Hey MNDriver, does your PCV hose drop down from the valve cover to the intake manifold? I did a mod on my 94 that has additionally helped lower oil consumption. Get some 3/8 emissions hose from the auto parts store and coil it up (1 coil) and cut to proper length and install that in place of the stock PCV hose. It acts as a catch can in essence and stops oil from draining down the hose into the intake. Doing that in combination with using Maxlife has basically stopped my oil consumption.
 
@Drew99GT Did you put the coil so that it was below the normal level of the PCV valve? Do you need to pull it off and let anything drip out from time to time?

What viscosity of Maxlife are you running? Any difference in viscosity over the winter?
 
I just simply got a long length of hose and coiled it once. No need to drain it - it prevents oil from puddling up at the PCV valve and getting sucked down to the intake. I'll post a picture for you.

I'm running 10w-30 Maxlife year round.
 
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I got a 3/8"ID x 24" emissions hose and cut a half foot off of it, it was super thick hose and I think I need to cut more length off of it. The loop seems too big, I'll see your picture and let you know how it compares to mine, right now the loop is higher than the two openings the two ends connect to.

PCV Valve rant:
When I was pulling the PCV valve out of it for the swap the PCV valve fell apart with 2 pieces of plastic and 3 pieces of metal, 1 being a spring, another being the plunger and another random piece that fell behind the engine. I had to put the old PCV back on but then I realized the old one looks exactly like the Autozone(Champion) brand that I replaced it with down to the number stamped on it and down to the tiny "Made In USA" raised lettering on it. I'm going to be getting a different brand again if I can find something other than a Fram and a Fram identical. I'm 95% sure the old one was a Fram too because I remember only being able to find one brand and that is the same issue now. I'll have to drive to an Advanced Auto and a Pepboys because everything else in my area is a Checker Auto or Autozone and Checker is Fram exclusive in my area and Autozone's brand obviously isn't doing me any good.
 
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In my opinion, a quart every 1000 miles (especially doing all the highway driving that you do, which is probably 3000-4000 RPM for you) isn't excessive.
 
@Jason Adcock - On an hourly basis this engine runs around 3000 rpm 90% of the time. I've noticed that during parts of the duration where I am not on the highway, I do not notice any consumption gas tank to gas tank, which is typically 400 miles per tank.
 
Originally Posted By: MN Driver
@Jason Adcock - On an hourly basis this engine runs around 3000 rpm 90% of the time. I've noticed that during parts of the duration where I am not on the highway, I do not notice any consumption gas tank to gas tank, which is typically 400 miles per tank.


I think you're fine with the consumption. A lot of automakers' consumption specs are 1 qt/1,000 miles, and those are on new engines. Toyota's consumption spec is 1 qt/600 miles (at least according to the information on my Alldata subscription for my '07 Corolla).

A quart after 1,000 miles of sustained 3,000 RPM operation on an engine with that many miles on it is completely normal in my opinion, and is in no way indicative of the need to junk it or rebuild it.
 
Okay, this is what I did.

I searched all over the place for something other than the PCV valve that I had before. Went to Autozone, Checker, Carquest, and finally found something other than a Fram or one that was made by another company that looked and acted like they were made by the same company, those being Luberfiner/Champion and Standard. I ended up getting a NAPA brand PCV valve. The spring inside actually holds the metal plunger against the plastic with the NAPA ones(The other brands, which are half brown and half black, even when new don't), so in theory this should really help out.

I also implemented a PCV hose loop by buying 3/8" emissions/fuel line hose and putting it in a loop. Picture is below. The idea is that this should catch the oil that splashes its way into the PCV system and preventing it from just running into the intake. If anyone with a Toyota 4AFE or 7AFE who has opened the oil cap while the engine is running knows there is a ton of oil spray/splash under the valve cover.

dscn6356hb7.jpg


The picture from Drew is basically the same but his loop is tighter and points up. It is hard to see in the picture but the top of the loop is actually at a higher level then the top of the valve cover and intake. I think my hose is a little thicker than what he is using so I don't think I could go too tight, but I do know I could get it tighter but that stuff is very difficult to cut.
 
Do you empty the hose occasionally? If not, I think it would either restrict flow or start allowing the accumulated fluid to be siphoned into the intake.
 
I will have to check it here and there, I'm going to flip it around so the loop faces up to avoid that problem. I just need a better tool to cut through that hose. The material is almost 1/4" of two layers of rubber with fabric run through the middle just like how a belt is produced.
 
Originally Posted By: Buick92
Get the cheapest oil possible, buy it by the case and keep driving until she dies. I've got a 1998 Prizm with only 80,000 miles, I hope I can get as many miles out of mine as yours.


You can buy a whole lot of top-off oil and keep it going, its much cheaper than a rebuild or a newer car.

Besides its getting over 40 MPG, whats not to love??
40 MPG is like GOLD these days...
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Drew:

For everyone's benefit, why don't you just post the pic for all to see.


47465953yj7.jpg


43916515vk4.jpg


MN Driver, you have the newer 4AFE with a different/updated intake manifold where the PCV hose goes UP from the valve cover to the intake. Toyota actually did this to help with oil consumption (looks like it didn't help that much
LOL.gif
). That's why I did what I did (with the idea from Gary Alan), to see if it would stop the heavy vacuum at the PCV valve from sucking pooled oil on the baffle in the valve cover into the intake manifold. It's absolutely helped my car and it's even eliminated ping under hot/heavy load conditions. Previously I had a full on catch can, but it would fill up after a few hundred miles and then start blowing blue smoke once it was full since it was sucking all the oil in the can.
 
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Originally Posted By: MN Driver
Okay, this is what I did.

I searched all over the place for something other than the PCV valve that I had before. Went to Autozone, Checker, Carquest, and finally found something other than a Fram or one that was made by another company that looked and acted like they were made by the same company, those being Luberfiner/Champion and Standard. I ended up getting a NAPA brand PCV valve. The spring inside actually holds the metal plunger against the plastic with the NAPA ones(The other brands, which are half brown and half black, even when new don't), so in theory this should really help out.

I also implemented a PCV hose loop by buying 3/8" emissions/fuel line hose and putting it in a loop. Picture is below. The idea is that this should catch the oil that splashes its way into the PCV system and preventing it from just running into the intake. If anyone with a Toyota 4AFE or 7AFE who has opened the oil cap while the engine is running knows there is a ton of oil spray/splash under the valve cover.

dscn6356hb7.jpg


The picture from Drew is basically the same but his loop is tighter and points up. It is hard to see in the picture but the top of the loop is actually at a higher level then the top of the valve cover and intake. I think my hose is a little thicker than what he is using so I don't think I could go too tight, but I do know I could get it tighter but that stuff is very difficult to cut.


I'd coil the hose the opposite direction like mine, so there isn't a low spot where the oil can pool and puddle up.
 
ef510dbc534ca957vp2.jpg


You can do it with length and/or diameter of a straight hose. The concept is the same. Drew chose the more compact shorter hose. Essentially you rob the heavy oil droplets of their velocity that keeps them in suspension ..allowing them to make the trip to the intake. No velocity? Can't make it that far. The way Drew has this setup ..it's totally passive and requires ZERO maintenance. He could have run the hose around the engine bay if he wanted to (naturally with sensible diameter increases and orienting it with a sensible "drain back" placement).
 
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