I gave M1 15w50 a shot in my 96 Saturn SL2 and really like the way the motor runs on this oil. After about 3K, it's starting to consume oil. For Saturns, this is "normal", but I just refuse to consume expensive oil for a cheap work car!
So, seeing this car likes oil a bit on the thicker side, 15w40 Delo 400 looks like a great oil for the price, even if consumption occurs.
Would running this oil long term, say a few years, have any detrimental effects on a passenger car engine? I've read a bit on the Ash content being higher in this oil. Catalytic converters issues? etc..
Thanks!
Chevron Delo 400 - a good oil for long term use in a passenger car?
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I've become a very outspoken fan of HDEO 15w-40's, so, of course, I am going to recommend you go for it!
First off, the converter issue is based off of the fact that HDEO's (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) contain a higher percentage of phorphorus. Now, while that is great in terms of anti-wear protection, it supposedly wreaks havoc on catalytic converters.
Well, that's not true. I've concluded this from my research: If you have a new car that requires the use of SL/GF-3 oil, then, yes, you will probably have reduced converter life (although still nothing I would worry about). If you have an older car, then you really have nothing to worry about unless your burning large amounts of oil.
The sulfated ash issue is also way overblow.
Simply put...the higher the amount of anti-wear and extreme pressure additives (which we all want in a lot of in our oils!)...the higher the sulfated ash level.
What people who say this is a big issue fail to realize is there are strict limits placed on the sulfated ash content in oils. While high amounts of AW/EP additives are good, they contribute to sulfated ash, which contributes to combustion chamber deposits and even top ring wear. The amount of sulfated ash in HDEO's is now around 1.3%...not enough to cause any problems. Truth be told, I bet that's why you now see molybdenum appearing in HDEO's...they need something else to add to give comparable protection to previous formulations that had higher levels of zinc/phorphorus and didn't have to deal with new regulations.
[ September 22, 2003, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
quote:Yes.
Originally posted by Vert97: Can the Delo 400 be used in a gasoline engine? I have a '97 Celica with the 2.2-liter I-4. It's got about 116K miles on it.
Delo is API SL for gasoline engines. It is not GF-3, lacking the "Energy Conserving" desination.
Good to hear that it's just as good a quality as can be expected from Chevron's products of late! It places confidence in knowing that I'm not the only one using this for a regular car.
Although, I find it noteworthy that there's lots of dust accumulated on every 1-gal bottle of Delo 400 at WalMart. It must hang around for quite a while!
quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn: Good to hear that it's just as good a quality as can be expected from Chevron's products of late! It places confidence in knowing that I'm not the only one using this for a regular car. Although, I find it noteworthy that there's lots of dust accumulated on every 1-gal bottle of Delo 400 at WalMart. It must hang around for quite a while!
What many people don't realize is that HDEO's can be used in both gas and diesel engines. They are excellent oils, and as long as you don't live somewhere cold, they can be used year-round, even in gas engines that have specifications for a lighter viscosity oil. For instance, even though it's viscosity at 40F is still a 15-weight, Delo's pour point is almost -40F (-38F to be exact). I've had guys that were supposedly "in the know" tell me specifically not to use Delo, Delvac and the like in gasoline engines because, "they are for diesels, not gas engines". If only they knew... [ September 23, 2003, 05:36 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Jelly;
I've had to lie at some bulk outlets (not in my town) when buying "diesel" engine oils.
They would ask me what is it going in and "you can't use that oil in a car you know?"
If I walk in and ask for a 20L pail instead of a case, no questions asked. They assume its for sumpthin' big and stinky.
I'll go out of my way to prove somebody wrong.
For example if the experts say I cannot use SAE 40 in tight clearance late model engines, that is what will go into 6 of them the next month.
Next summer I'll use SAE 50 HDMO and a Fram filter in an 03 Focus that calls for 5W20.
quote:You are sick, man, but I love it.
Originally posted by userfriendly: Next summer I'll use SAE 50 HDMO and a Fram filter in an 03 Focus that calls for 5W20.
CJH;
Ok, here is a better one:
I'm in a motorcycle shop DISCUSSING, no Trying to explain, without much luck, ISO numbers and how they apply to suspension grades to the owner.
I then tell him that I use R+O or plain hydraulic fluids because they don't have a lot of additives that are not needed in suspensions, such as extreme pressure additives.
"Well that just shows you what you know about motorcycles" he skoffed. "What do you think the pressure is inside a motorcycle fork and shock when you land a 30 foot jump? If that isn't extreme pressure, I don't know what is."
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[ September 23, 2003, 08:08 PM: Message edited by: GSV ]quote:Userfriendly, I say "Amen" to that, brother. I like to run HD-30 monograde dino oil in these little newfangled engines that call for 5w-30, 5w-20, 0w-20. Particularly in Hot Summers in the Gulf States, I figure none of that Sissy, watery 0w-20 going to do anybody any good. It's funny, every once in a long while I run into someone with similar ideas to mine. I was driving through Hattiesburg, Mississippi on my way to Alabama this Summer, and the girl behind the counter at a highway gas stop told me that all she ever uses is monograde dino HD-30 and HD-40, and to H#LL with what the owner's manual says. It is what her Grandaddy uses, and she figures the old guy has forgotten more about cars than everybody else will ever learn. But of course, if I were living in Alaska, I might just use a good multigrade.
Originally posted by userfriendly: ......I'll go out of my way to prove somebody wrong. For example if the experts say I cannot use SAE 40 in tight clearance late model engines, that is what will go into 6 of them the next month. Next summer I'll use SAE 50 HDMO and a Fram filter in an 03 Focus that calls for 5W20.
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Well thar's nuthin' like an ol' Texas boy t' tell it like it is.
Say hi to GWB for me.
quote:Although mine is SH rated I have been using an HD-Diesel/Gas oil for all but the first 30K (break-in)of 383256 as of today. I'll say this, that if my Tacoma woulda broke in faster I'd of used it from the first few thousand.
Originally posted by Jelly: ----*****---- First off, the converter issue is based off of the fact that HDEO's (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) contain a higher percentage of phorphorus. Now, while that is great in terms of anti-wear protection, it supposedly wreaks havoc on catalytic converters. Well, that's not true. I've concluded this from my research: If you have a new car that requires the use of SL/GF-3 oil, then, yes, you will probably have reduced converter life (although still nothing I would worry about). ---***---
I'm using 15w40 Quaker State in my '02 Dodge truck with no problems after 25 K.I'll probably switch to Delo as the Wally Mart in my area isn't carrying the QS oil in 15w40 anymore.
quote:I'm pretty sure the SuperTech 15w40 oil is Quaker State in the bottle, for less money. I called WalMart who told me to call Shell/QS. A rep called me back and told me that the SuperTech oil is QS oil. After he faxed me a spec sheet of their standard issue oils, (the 15w40 wasn't one of them in the list) I compared them to QS's online numbers. They're almost absolutely identical to QS's specs. Whether they have the same additive packages in them, I don't know, but if you're a QS user, SuperTech is the route to go.
Originally posted by Chris 2421: I'm using 15w40 Quaker State in my '02 Dodge truck with no problems after 25 K.I'll probably switch to Delo as the Wally Mart in my area isn't carrying the QS oil in 15w40 anymore.
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