Check out this dipstick.

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This came from my company car which is a 2013 Honda CRV EX-L with 2.4L 4 cylinder. The car came from factory with 0W-20 which I never was big fan of it. Yesterday I checked the oil at 1,000 mile mark & it took over 1/2 qt to bring it back to full mark. Thinking about switch it over to 5W-20 instead since I don't encounter sub freezing temperature. [img:center]http://s929.photobucket.com/user/silentpropulsion/media/IMG_20130826_080327_566-1_zpsf8c7bdc1.jpg.html][/URL][/img]
 
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I thought the oil level was just supposed to be between the two holes. What is wrong in this picture?
 

SigQAEngineer

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well, I waited 10 min after shut-down before checking it. Oil was full when we bought it & it appears the break-in process has consumed a bit more than I expected. I'm aware that 0W-20 are really meant to meet CAFE standards & IMO doesn't have enough viscosity for "Severe" driving conditions which this car will have to endure. What are your thoughts about switching to 5W-20 ?
 
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You got the word "engineer" in your name....but ask this type of question. I'm guessing you're either not an engineer, or if you are, not an ME. What do you think going from a 0w20 to a 5w20 is going to accomplish? Here is the your answer: Absolutely NOTHING. I'm not even convinced that the car did burn a half quart. Too many variables: like checking the car on a hill/slant vs. flat and is the oil really all the way drained, etc. etc. If the car did burn some oil, there is nothing that switching from a 0w20 to a 5w20 is going to accomplish. Keep the 0w20 in the car. No reason not do. Even in the desert.
 
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Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
well, I waited 10 min after shut-down before checking it. Oil was full when we bought it & it appears the break-in process has consumed a bit more than I expected. I'm aware that 0W-20 are really meant to meet CAFE standards & IMO doesn't have enough viscosity for "Severe" driving conditions which this car will have to endure. What are your thoughts about switching to 5W-20 ?
i don't think it will make a difference. But you will do better in the next thousand I bet
 

SigQAEngineer

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You are assuming that I'm an engineer with mechanical knowledge I take it ? I am actually a Software Quality Assurance (QA) engineer. By claiming a switch to 5W-20 won't make a difference you are clearly over looking the NOACK % loss index btwn 0W-20 vs. 5W-20s at 250C. Not to mention there will be a difference btwn the D445 viscosity index at 100C & TBN going from 0W-20 to 5W-20. I once consulted a Toyota Field Technical Support Rep over an unrelated matter & I inquired about the 0W-20 synthetics in most of their newer model cars & he admitted that it is not "uncommon" to see oil level that's 1 qt to 1-1/2 qt below full mark during scheduled OCI. There is ONLY one way to prove my theory, that is to test it out with 5W-20 at next OC.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
You got the word "engineer" in your name....but ask this type of question. I'm guessing you're either not an engineer, or if you are, not an ME. What do you think going from a 0w20 to a 5w20 is going to accomplish? Here is the your answer: Absolutely NOTHING. I'm not even convinced that the car did burn a half quart. Too many variables: like checking the car on a hill/slant vs. flat and is the oil really all the way drained, etc. etc. If the car did burn some oil, there is nothing that switching from a 0w20 to a 5w20 is going to accomplish. Keep the 0w20 in the car. No reason not do. Even in the desert.
 
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SigQAEngineer

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I sure hope so. Coworker drives a Mini Cooper Turbo that is consuming a full quart of 5W-30 synthetic every 800-900 miles, and according to the dealer that is "acceptable" consumption. So my case isn't so bad even if condition persists, but I think I'll try 5W-20 at least once just to confirm my theory correct, or not. I get a company car every 3 years, so this CRV will be out of my hair soon whether oil consumption becomes an issue or not.
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
[/quote]i don't think it will make a difference. But you will do better in the next thousand I bet
 
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Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
I'm aware that 0W-20 are really meant to meet CAFE standards & IMO doesn't have enough viscosity for "Severe" driving conditions which this car will have to endure.
My car sees alot of autocross and overall general abuse with a 20 grade oil. My oil analysis' have been nothing but perfect.
 
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Thats wahat mine looked like a couple of time but I got an older car with `153k.. its down about 1/2 to 3/4 of a qrt.. I dont panic unless its down to the add or lower mark.
 
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Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
By claiming a switch to 5W-20 won't make a difference you are clearly over looking the NOACK % loss index btwn 0W-20 vs. 5W-20s at 250C.
Possible, but not a certainty. Noack will depend on the base oils used. If you are using the same base oils but blending with a lighter cut then maybe Noack will go up, but if the 0W-20 is using some or more of a better base oil then this isn't a given.
Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
Not to mention there will be a difference btwn the D445 viscosity index at 100C & TBN going from 0W-20 to 5W-20.
VI, yes. But then a 0W-20, which is likely to have a higher VI, will also then have a higher viscosity at temperatures above 100°C. Why would a 0W-20 have a different TBN? TBN is a function of the additives used, which is defined by the performance specifications being achieved.
 
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Originally Posted By: Phishin
You got the word "engineer" in your name....but ask this type of question. I'm guessing you're either not an engineer, or if you are, not an ME. What do you think going from a 0w20 to a 5w20 is going to accomplish? Here is the your answer: Absolutely NOTHING. I'm not even convinced that the car did burn a half quart. Too many variables: like checking the car on a hill/slant vs. flat and is the oil really all the way drained, etc. etc. If the car did burn some oil, there is nothing that switching from a 0w20 to a 5w20 is going to accomplish. Keep the 0w20 in the car. No reason not do. Even in the desert.
Me either, oil appears cold/thick as if engine was started then shutoff in just a couple of minutes or less... If that's the case there could well be a pint or more hanging to surfaces in the upper regions of the engine, that may take 30-60 minutes to flow back to the pan...
 
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Quote:
So my case isn't so bad even if condition persists, but I think I'll try 5W-20 at least once just to confirm my theory correct, or not.
It will prove nothing. The engine will stop using oil as it breaks in. If it begins with a 0 or a 5 makes no difference.
 
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Sig, usually by now someone has said, "But what about your warranty?" Since you've jumped past that hurdle, what say we venture further? The factory fill your CR-V was delivered with was supplied to Honda by ConocoPhilips (COP), the same guys who supply Ford Motor Company with their house brand, Motorcraft. So, if you're thinking that upping the viscosity from 0W-20 to 5W-20 is good (which I and others doubt will make a difference), then mixing a half-quart of Motorcraft 5W-30 is a better bet, if in fact your CR-V actually consumed a half-quart of oil in 1K -- which I also doubt. In any case, I wouldn't worry about the engine in your CR-V: It's really difficult to buy a bad 4-cylinder Honda. I'd top it off and motor on.
 
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Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
There is ONLY one way to prove my theory, that is to test it out with 5W-20 at next OC.
That might not prove anything. If the engine is burning oil while breaking in and then you switch to 5w20, you'll think it solved your consumption issue when infact the engine took care of the problem itself. It's well known here that the Honda factory fill is a very unique blend.
 
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As others have pointed out all of your assumptions on the difference between the 0W-20 and 5W-20 grade are incorrect. -The OEM specified 0W-20 grade is not about starting in "sub-freezing temp's" but rather being much lighter on start-up even on 110F days. -The 0W-20 grade is intended for "severe driving conditions". In fact I've run the Honda 0W-20 in my track car that's spec's for 5W-50 with good results: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2828484#Post2828484 - Most oil consumption has nothing to do with the NOACK spec' as the bulk oil temp's are not high enough. A 2-3% volatility difference is insignificant. That said if you want to run an oil with a low NOACK spec' there plenty of 0W-20s thast have lower spec's than 5W-20s. Talking generically about the 5W-20 grade vs a 0W-20 is newbie mistake as there is a huge overlap in the characteristics of both.
 
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Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
I once consulted a Toyota Field Technical Support Rep over an unrelated matter & I inquired about the 0W-20 synthetics in most of their newer model cars & he admitted that it is not "uncommon" to see oil level that's 1 qt to 1-1/2 qt below full mark during scheduled OCI.
I believe you. But you also have to consider that toyota went from 5000 mile OCI with 5W30 to 10000 with 0W20.
 
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