Check out my magnets on my oil filter

I think Subaru engineers went a bit off the deep end with the oil pump volume. My Z06 stock oil pump only puts out around 7 to 7.5 GPM at 6500 RPM. High performance after market oil pumps for that engine put out around 9 to 9.5 GPM.

It would still be interesting if someone could actually measure the oil temp and oil pressure on one of those Subaru engines to confirm is it matched the service manual specs. My Z06 had oil temp and pressure digital gauges, and I plotted the oil pressure vs oil temp vs engine RPM, and when the oil was hot (5W-30 Mobil 1 at 200F) the pressure would not get high enough to hit oil pump relief. And I'm sure the flow would not have put the filter in bypass either.

What year is your Z06 ?
 
What year is your Z06 ?
2002 ... all Gen3/Gen4 LS series engines used the same oil pump.

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Data from my Z06 digital oil pressure gauge vs RPM with oil at 200F on the digital temp gauge.

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The post about bypass occurring easier if the viscosity is thicker brings up an interesting train of thought in that those who think using a thicker oil provides better protection might be missing something. It's possible that what they're doing is allowing bypass the happen more than it would if they had used a thinner oil and therefore could be allowing particles to flow through their engine that otherwise would not have flowed through the engine. This is an interesting analysis of a possible reason why it may not be good to go to a thicker oil than recommend it.
 
^^^ All multi-viscosity oil is pretty thick when cold - much thicker than when it's at full operating temperature. When the oil is hot (200F +), the difference in viscosity between a xW-20 thru a xW-50 will not make any real difference in the filter bypassing. An engine with a pretty crazy high volume output oil pump (like some Subarus) might make a filter hit bypass dP if it had a relatively low set bypass valve with hot oil.

But the difference in HTHS viscosiy between those viscosities can make a difference in engine wear rate. If you want to minimize filter bypassing, keep the engine RPM down until the oil warms up pretty good.
 
@cman, did you change that filter yet? Did you cut it open to see how much you caught?
What I was looking for too … He was last online right after your question …
Gonna just get mPlug for Jeep … have Fumoto on the 5.3L’s …
Seems Fe particle trapping in high flow might work differently than those with gravity assists like we see in driveline applications …
I see relatively large particles on plugs during first gear oil or transfer case changes - vs just “muck” on an ATF pan drop mags …
(assume oil filters are decent and ATF filters are better than nothing)
Good point (UD) there is a tattle tell bonus w/ mPlug … My body on frame SUV’s have tiny rounded steel sumps under aluminum oil pans …
These seem well suited for mPlug …
Compare Fe SG to other elements in this chart - and consider the buoyancy factor with light materials can be significant …

 
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I do use a magnetic drain plug, never seen magnets on a filter before but it’s an interesting idea.
 
The "FilterMag" has been around for a long time. They are pretty expensive, so people improvise with their own magnets. Old hard drive magnets work pretty good.

Interesting. I don’t believe this would work on my Tacoma 2GR-FKS setup with a plastic canister. I guess I could glue some on. I will say, wear prevention is probably a better solution. Although I will probably get flamed and ridiculed, I swear by Liqui Moly’s Cera Tec. I’ve been using it for 10 years in many different vehicles and my cold starts are like butter. Even post oil change starts on previous vehicle's with a sideways filter where many others would notice valve clatter, mine was always super quiet. I understand many are very doubtful but I am a firm believer that it truly does apply a ceramic based coating to the internals and last upwards of 25k miles, though I personally apply every 15 - 20k miles. I don’t want to change the subject or argue with anyone, just my personal suggestion.

 
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Interesting. I don’t believe this would work on my Tacoma 2GR-FKS setup with a plastic canister. I guess I could glue some on.
You could at least get a good magnetic drain plug. They do catch magnetic particles that the oil filter can not.
 
You could at least get a good magnetic drain plug. They do catch magnetic particles that the oil filter can not.
I use a Gold Plug for oil drain on my GX460. It collects an observable amount of "fur" at each 5k OCI. Though small, I'm *HAPPY* to not have that slurry floating around my engine.
 
@cman, did you change that filter yet? Did you cut it open to see how much you caught?


I have pics of only one.. but its a similar setup. I run XG4967 or XG4386 and i happened to have some old Xtended guards that needed to be used up first.. so i put the magnets onto it. I will have an XG4967 in a couple more thousand miles to post some pics of...




You can see a little tiny bit of ferrous material that was collected. And thats only a 5k mile oil change. Yes I know people think its crazy to waste a OG fram ultra after 5k miles.. but thats what I do :)


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