How can I check to see if the ac system has any charge in it? I’m wondering if it leaked out and if I can then cut out parts without having to get someone to evacuate it. I don’t have the car at this time so I can’t just flip the ac on to check.
Check AC charge?
- Thread starter supton
- Start date
Can I just press on any of the schraders and listen? I mean, pre and post compressor, both sides should be equal in pressure right? been sitting a couple months now. I’ve never worked on ac, have a vague idea how they work and all, but not about start working on them now.
Have to have gauges. It would like working on electric circuit with no meter. A guess will only cost u money.
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- Jun 2, 2002
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Yes, you can very quickly press the schrader valve on the charge port and listen for it to discharge a small amount of gas. I don't know how things are in your area but in my area the local shops will evacuate the system and reclaim the refrigerant for around $30. Some will want to charge for the full reclaim and recharge procedure which is usually $80 but you just have to let them know you're going to open the system up and don't want to discharge the gas into the atmosphere.
If the system is already discharged then proceed with caution when opening things up.
If the system is already discharged then proceed with caution when opening things up.
All these restrictions on venting r134 into the atmosphere and yet you can walk right into any walmart and buy r134 duster gas that's entire purpose is to be sprayed uncontrollably into the air.
Is your A/C not working or just working poorly?
Now if it's just a little low and not working the best that it can, yes that can be difficult to measure. If it's so low that it's not coming on yeah, just tap the vale to see what comes out.
Well, it was working just fine--then I hit a rock and bent the radiator all up. In order to do the rad the condensor has to come out. If it somehow is still holding a charge then I'll get it evacuated--but if it leaked out all on its own (what are the odds of taking out the rad but not the condensor???) then I don't have to worry about it.
This is on my wrecked car. I'm getting frustrated that nothing is getting done on it. I'd like to toss in the towel and move on, yet I kinda don't want to go car shopping either. So do I limp the car home, pull the condensor and then see how to unbend things back into a usable shape? Car was sorta ok before, and could be forced into living another year or two, as long as I have low standards (like no a/c etc).
DIYers can buy virgin R-134a/R-1234yf but AC Pro is all the rage. However, if there is moisture in your system and/or you keep on topping off with AC Pro, the risk of damage to your compressor is real. And it can destroy recovery machines.
Radiator does not have anything to do with condenser except for location proximity.
Theoretically, removing radiator carefully and put a new one, should not bother the condenser.
Unless you have something weird with a condenser that is tied together to radiator.
R-134 is pesky, you cannot have too much or too little pressure.
So, don't touch it or even try to recharge it if it works properly.
Theoretically, removing radiator carefully and put a new one, should not bother the condenser.
Unless you have something weird with a condenser that is tied together to radiator.
R-134 is pesky, you cannot have too much or too little pressure.
So, don't touch it or even try to recharge it if it works properly.
Yes
Many cars and trucks are built so that you can't remove one without the other. Have to pull both the rad and condenser then separate them on the bench.
I recently replaced a radiator in a 12 dodge avenger. Absolutely no way to get the radiator out without pulling the condenser and the condenser also contains the transmission cooler. Quite a job.
On my '99 Camry I was able to R&R the radiator without messing with the condensor. On this one they are unlikely to unmate. I know for a fact that the condensor is pushed into the radiator and will have to be removed, as the radiator is almost into the engine mount.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Need to just wait it out and let the insurance either write you a check for the damages or total it and buy it back. I think it’ll definitely be worth your time.
But don’t be afraid to bring Karen out and tell them the time it’s taking is getting ridiculous. Have the insurance pay for a rental car, that’ll speed it up.
Loads of fun.
Am refusing to rent a car. Why have something nice only to return to my clunker? Don't know what I'm missing, as long as I never taste what I could be having.
$30-$80?? I wish I lived there. I'm getting quotes as high as $200 for recovery and recharge.
Huh, learned something new today.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I understand the point you’re trying to make, but to say they’re designed to be sprayed uncontrollably into the air is a bit of an exaggeration.
Going rate in NYC is $150+
Which is why I got a gauge set and top off to appropriate pressures/vent temps
It's not ideal, and it's not best practice, but I'm kept comfortable for a realistic price
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I suppose it's possible that I get a neighborhood rate since both shops that I use are right near my house. I have never asked an "off the street" customer what they pay. I do the recharge myself but I don't have a reclamation machine and I honestly just hate releasing the gas into the atmosphere. Besides, that little valve gets incredibly cold if you just push it in and let it bleed.
