Cheapest full synthetic for a Gen 3 5.0 Mustang

didn't know 0W can be a blend!

thought the best a blend can do (pass/meet the requirements of) was a 5W.
They reference Motorcraft 0W-30 synthetic blend in the manual, there were a few 0W-20 synblend products out there but they've pretty much been discontinued.
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They reference Motorcraft 0W-30 synthetic blend in the manual, there were a few 0W-20 synblend products out there but they've pretty much been discontinued.
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Good to know! Thanks.

Was the consensus that Ford wants to have a cheaper alternative than syn thus allowing blend?
why 0W-30 then? Never been able to find a cheap 0W-30.
maybe Ford should recommend 0W-40 instead. Some nice inexpensive options available! and 40 is better for these engines anyway.
 
If it has been running blend since 2015 the syn may get very dirty very quickly. May do a few short changes to get the gunk out.
 
from what i have read the type writer tick started with the 2011 model ?
I am one of the lucky ones i have almost 60k on mine and for having ten miles of timing chain and a million other top end parts it really quiet honestly the only real noise is the pulse of the injectors.
i have heard the tick in other mustangs i think it would drive me nuts , it sounds like its coming from the bottom end ?
Yes, the BBQ tick has been a characteristic of the Coyote since it came out in 2011 (Gen 1 Coyote). Back then, Ford told dealers to add Motorcraft XL-15 friction modifier, which typically cured the ticking. Motorcraft XL-15 is no longer available, so lots of Mustang guys with the tick add LiquiMoly Ceratec (also a friction modifier), which also typically cures the tick. Some guys even report Ceratec curing the tick when added at 1/4 the recommended add ratio, which would be only 150 cc (0.16 qt) in 8 qts of oil - thats only 2%.

The ticking is in the bottom end, and one theory is that if the friction level is high, then that may be causing the big end of the rods to "dance" side-to-side on the crank journal on some engines - maybe ones with the rod side cleatance on the large end of tolorance. As soon as you add a friction modifier, the tick disappears almost instantly.

Another symptom that supports the friction level theory is the fact that the tick can slowly disappear as the miles get put on the oil, then the tick will be back almost instantly with an oil change. This tells me that the friction level slowly decreases from an anti-friction tribofilm forming on parts during an oil run, and when the oil is changed the new oil strips most of that AF tribofilm off, and the friction increasrs again and the tick is back. The tick sure seems to be associated with the friction level between moving parts.
 
  • This confirms that Moly is good and Japanese engine manufacturers know this.
  • Also people who change oil and say the new oil is "noisy" should contact 1-800-tribofilm and not M1. :alien: :ROFLMAO:
 
So I’ve been balls deep in oil over the past month or so. It started with me wondering why Ford recommends a synthetic blend over full synthetic, which I’ve gotten answers too. My question is, would there be any harm in running the cheapest full synthetic you can find at Walmart in a mustang? Sees the occasional redline RPM driving and spirited driving like any mustang. But does it really matter what brand if you’re changing the oil every 3-5k miles? Could you get away with running super tech for $20/5qt? I’m huge into maintenance and do it all myself. I’d run the Motorcraft synthetic blend but it cost as much ($22/5q) as a full synthetic. Might as well take advantage of a full synthetic at that point anyhow. Some are even cheaper such as super tech, Quaker state, valvoline, etc. all full synthetic.
Well it is as much as lots of full synthetics on sale. If Motorcraft was such a great product why would Ford certify anything else?

Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5-Quart (Single)

  • Full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil provides strong engine performance and protection against deposits between oil changes
  • Ideal for use in modern turbocharged engines and high-performance vehicles like sports cars, SUVs, trucks, and minivans
  • Designed to deliver more power and less friction, reducing friction to maximize horsepower (compared to Quaker State conventional and synthetic blend motor oils)
  • Delivers high resistance to oxidation, keeping the oil fresher for longer
  • Provides improved fuel economy (based on the latest industry standard)
  • Excellent protection against formation of sludge and other harmful deposits
  • Engineered to provide corrosion protection to protect against harmful acids generated by engine contaminants
  • Meets or exceeds the following OEM requirements: Chrysler MS-6395; GM dexos1 Gen 2; Ford WSS-M2C946-A and WSS-M2C946-B1
  • Exceeds the requirements of the following industry specifications: API SP-Resource Conserving, API SN PLUS, and all previous categories;
  • ILSAC GF-6A
Sometimes there just seems to be a little BS in the wind. Here Ford tells you there is other good stuff out they they approve of or the stuff in red wouldn't be there.

This has the official blessing of the Ford Company https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-S...W-30-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/177257743?athbdg=L1100
 
Well it is as much as lots of full synthetics on sale. If Motorcraft was such a great product why would Ford certify anything else?

Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5-Quart (Single)

  • Full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil provides strong engine performance and protection against deposits between oil changes
  • Ideal for use in modern turbocharged engines and high-performance vehicles like sports cars, SUVs, trucks, and minivans
  • Designed to deliver more power and less friction, reducing friction to maximize horsepower (compared to Quaker State conventional and synthetic blend motor oils)
  • Delivers high resistance to oxidation, keeping the oil fresher for longer
  • Provides improved fuel economy (based on the latest industry standard)
  • Excellent protection against formation of sludge and other harmful deposits
  • Engineered to provide corrosion protection to protect against harmful acids generated by engine contaminants
  • Meets or exceeds the following OEM requirements: Chrysler MS-6395; GM dexos1 Gen 2; Ford WSS-M2C946-A and WSS-M2C946-B1
  • Exceeds the requirements of the following industry specifications: API SP-Resource Conserving, API SN PLUS, and all previous categories;
  • ILSAC GF-6A
Sometimes there just seems to be a little BS in the wind. Here Ford tells you there is other good stuff out they they approve of or the stuff in red wouldn't be there.

This has the official blessing of the Ford Company https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-S...W-30-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/177257743?athbdg=L1100
This oil meets the right price/performance tick marks for my wife's Hyundai Tucson we just picked up. Same price as most house brands. Any will do for a reasonable OCI.
 
I doubt he is going to title the thread like he did referencing a "Gen 3 5.0 Mustang", and then talk in his OP like he's driving some other vehicle, lol.
To any car guy who is NOT hip-deep into this "coyote sub-culture" a Gen 3 Mustang is the first fox body.

I owned a few of the junkers myself. back in the 80's when they were 12 grand new. But, I liked the way my breathed-on gen 2 King Cobra drove MUCH better than the poor steering Ford Fairmont variants with a teenage body.

Sorry to the kids, BTDT, tried hard for success, but this old guy has a bad ford taste in his mouth.

Carry on without me. - Ken
 
To any car guy who is NOT hip-deep into this "coyote sub-culture" a Gen 3 Mustang is the first fox body.
Yeah, if you're not up on Mustangs then you wouldn't know that in this case the "Gen 3" referes to the Coyote engine generation. Can't say you didn't learn anything new in this thread. ;)
 
Your engine will last just as long with semi syn as it will syn. Marketing works. why would you expect an oil that is SP wether syn or semi syn would be different keeping the parts separated.
This means that the full syn part of semi syn is adding no wear benefit over the conventional part. By deductive reasoning, this statement means non-syn is just as good as full syn in protecting the engine.
 
Yes, the BBQ tick has been a characteristic of the Coyote since it came out in 2011 (Gen 1 Coyote). Back then, Ford told dealers to add Motorcraft XL-15 friction modifier, which typically cured the ticking. Motorcraft XL-15 is no longer available, so lots of Mustang guys with the tick add LiquiMoly Ceratec (also a friction modifier), which also typically cures the tick. Some guys even report Ceratec curing the tick when added at 1/4 the recommended add ratio, which would be only 150 cc (0.16 qt) in 8 qts of oil - thats only 2%.

The ticking is in the bottom end, and one theory is that if the friction level is high, then that may be causing the big end of the rods to "dance" side-to-side on the crank journal on some engines - maybe ones with the rod side cleatance on the large end of tolorance. As soon as you add a friction modifier, the tick disappears almost instantly.

Another symptom that supports the friction level theory is the fact that the tick can slowly disappear as the miles get put on the oil, then the tick will be back almost instantly with an oil change. This tells me that the friction level slowly decreases from an anti-friction tribofilm forming on parts during an oil run, and when the oil is changed the new oil strips most of that AF tribofilm off, and the friction increasrs again and the tick is back. The tick sure seems to be associated with the friction level between moving parts.

On my particular engine, the tick did follow this pattern. (y)The PUP was MUCH quicker in the OCI to quiet back down than previous NAPA Syn. Now do Iose any sleep over the tick? the answer is no. But it's still better when it's not doing it.
 
So I’ve been balls deep in oil over the past month or so. It started with me wondering why Ford recommends a synthetic blend over full synthetic, which I’ve gotten answers too. My question is, would there be any harm in running the cheapest full synthetic you can find at Walmart in a mustang? Sees the occasional redline RPM driving and spirited driving like any mustang. But does it really matter what brand if you’re changing the oil every 3-5k miles? Could you get away with running super tech for $20/5qt? I’m huge into maintenance and do it all myself. I’d run the Motorcraft synthetic blend but it cost as much ($22/5q) as a full synthetic. Might as well take advantage of a full synthetic at that point anyhow. Some are even cheaper such as super tech, Quaker state, valvoline, etc. all full synthetic.-blend in good running engine! ****Never hurts to run a full synthetic over a syn blend in a good running engine. Try Quaker State 5w20 or 5w30 whichever viscosity Ford recommends. Ford suggests the Motorcraft syn-blend to keep running costs low & its a very good syn-blend made by ConocoPhillips to Fords spec. Don't go over 5k mis w/any oil so that stout 5.0L Coyote lasts a long, long time! I'd run the Motorcraft filters if was my Mustang.
 
Havoline lifetime has decent amount of moly. I only use PUP and some Biotech(for extra moly) in my 2013 Hemi 5.7 Ram and zero tick and runs perfect. Might buy some of that Havoline, is good price and good oil, can use it for my cars that need shorter interval oil changes.
 
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