Changing oil before winter storage

Patman

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This topic is coming up a lot now on other message boards, and it has me wondering a little bit. I've always told people that the reason you want fresh oil in there is so that the acids in the oil don't attack the metal while the engine is sitting for so long. But if the TBN of the oil is still good when you first store your car, won't that neutralize the acids anyways? Or will the engine need to be run on a daily basis in order for that oil to be neutralizing the acids? Am I making any sense here? [Freak] [I dont know]
 
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Patman, Do you think it is wise to soak the cylinder walls with oil to keep the rings from sticking/rusting?Marvel Mystery Oil is great at un-sticking a rusted engine,would it be equally good at preventing it from happening? [I dont know] Mark
 

Patman

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I'm not sure if I'd put any strange additives such as that in there for winter storage, you never know what kind of long term reaction they would have.
 

MolaKule

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If you put new oil in the engine and ran it hot and then put it in storage, the additives should work their magic on any acids. I think if you were to store an engine with dirty, acidic oil - well, that's when you're asking for trouble. Before I fire up an engine that has been stored over the winter, I remove the splugs and squirt about 3 oz of warmed synthetic 5W30 motor oil (90 F) in each cylinder and let it soak overnight. I then replace the splugs the next day and disconnect the power wire to the spark module (or remove fuse). I crank the engine for about 10 seconds and then it leave it overnight again. The next day I reconnect or replace the fuse to the spark module, fire it up, and run the engine outside because its going to smoke for about 30 seconds. I let the engine work up to normal temp, and then change oil 15 minutes later.
 
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I would be interested in thoughts/comments on just putting some Nuetra 131 in the motor and running a bit and not change the oil at all assuming the oil was not completely dead.The motor does not need anything but no acids attacking the internal metals why sitting and the anti corrosion additives in the oils should still do it's job I would hazerd a guess,IF the oil was not dead,,would not cost very much in money to do this as well and get some cleaning to boot
 

MolaKule

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I'm thinking along the lines of Patman, Put your additives in the oil before you change it out for the winter, but leave only clean oil in the engine for storage.
 
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Always store with clean (or relatively clean) oil). Ideally you change the oil, let it circulate to get where a little old stuff was, and turn it off. I know of people who recommend pulling the plugs and putting a spoonfull of oil in the cylinders, they cranking a couple of turns, but have never tried this. I have never stored any vehicle, but analyze bearings from lots of tractors and harvestors that are stored. When stored with dirty oil there is always corrosion on the bearings, even when the oil tests with a 8 or 9 TBN reserve. Since that oil is not circulating, it can't get there. I see it sort of like money in the bank and none in your pocket.
 

Patman

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The one thing that bugs me is when people tell me that they change their oil yet again in the spring, even though it has zero miles on it! I thought the 3k oil change interval made me mad, but the 0k oil change interval is even worse! There is nothing wrong with that oil that the car was stored with, it's still brand new, yet people still drain it out!
 
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I quess nobody here as ever heard of fogging oil? It is a spray can of oil designed to protect the upper cylinder walls during storage. Used all the time on boats and airplanes. You can find it this time of year in just about any boating supply store. You pull the plugs and spray a shot into each cylinder, put the plugs in a store. The rest of the engine is pretty splash lubricated for winter storage. For longer storage you should fill the entire crankcase with a preservative oil. And I mean FILL to the top. Replace the plugs with dessicant plugs and put a dessicant plug into the intake and exhaust. To return to service, drain the oil, put in fresh oil and start. FOra high performance engine I would consider doing an oil change after the first run.
 
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Yep, I just picked up a can of Pennzoil marine fogging oil in a bright yellow can. I use this in our boat (inboard, 5.0L Mercruiser) but that's about it. Hey, you're our 500th member. Congrats!! [Big Grin] --- Bror Jace
 

Patman

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quote:
Originally posted by Bror Jace: Yep, I just picked up a can of Pennzoil marine fogging oil in a bright yellow can. I use this in our boat (inboard, 5.0L Mercruiser) but that's about it. Hey, you're our 500th member. Congrats!! [Big Grin] --- Bror Jace
Yes, congrats! Although the counter on the main page still says only 494 members. Wierd. I wonder how that happened. [Confused] [ October 27, 2002, 05:55 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
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I do not recommend changing again in the spring. We have no problem getting equipment to 18,000 hours or so with storage on clean oil and going straight into 400 hour changes in the next season. With special taxes on oil here, it runs about $10 a gallon for a decent Group I. No way are people going to change on zero hours, nor do I see any need for it. (not that I wouldn't like to sell more)
 
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