Change to synthetic from std after 223 k miles?

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Oct 10, 2021
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Bought my 2007 sequoia 2 weeks ago with 223 k miles. Has had 3000 to 4000 mile oil changes . The first 11.5 years at a toyota dealer. Things seem good.
So I had the valve cover gaskets replaced and my shop said pass side looked pristine. He thought driv side had light dark spots or sludge ?

So I normally only use full syn mobil 1. Any issue changing to mobil 1 5 w 30 ?? I plan to keep 3000 to 3500 mile changes.
 
I don’t see what going to M1 is going to hurt by why such a low OCI? It seems like you would be wasting money.

Just my $0.02
 
The difference in color for the driver's side could be PCV location-- check if the PCV valve is on that side; if it is, that's likely your answer. Not uncommon, most modern engines I've had the valve covers off has had darker residue / baked on deposits on the side with the PCV valve.

No issues running full synthetic oil, but I agree with the above posters that 3k is a waste-- unless all your driving is short trip or some other very severe service conditions. If you're dead set on 3k intervals, use cheap dino oil with the latest API spec and you're good to go. Otherwise I'd extend the interval with Mobil1 to at least 5k if primarily city/short trip driving, or 7.5K+ if primarily highway use.
 
Using M1 and going 3500 mile OCI is a bit too soon and pretty much a waste of money. You engine won't know the difference between 3500 and 5 - 6k mile OCI. As long as M1 doesn't burn in your engine, you're good to go. Chances are you'll never have an oil related issue. If something goes :poop: bag, it won't be the oil.
 

Change to synthetic from std after 223 k miles?​


So I normally only use full syn mobil 1. Any issue changing to mobil 1 5 w 30 ?? I plan to keep 3000 to 3500 mile changes.
Post is confusing. Title asks about changing to synthetic from standard, but then you say you already normally use synthetic and are asking about changing to standard. Which is it?
 
After 223,000 miles I would expect a bit of buildup. It doesn’t sound like a problem to me. Just keep the same OCI with the oil of your choice.
 
I would think synthetic would be fine. Consider following the maintenance minder of the vehicle if you want to reduce the number of oil changes.
 
Just got my sequoia. Last year i ran my f350 3000 miles in a year.. so my 3000 mile oci is once a year / @ 3000 miles
 
More interested in opinions on changing to mobil 1... which i have gallons of paid for. To buy 5 w 30 dino oil i am buying oil and leaving 5 w 30 in my garage w no use.
 
Bought my 2007 sequoia 2 weeks ago with 223 k miles. Has had 3000 to 4000 mile oil changes . The first 11.5 years at a toyota dealer. Things seem good.
So I had the valve cover gaskets replaced and my shop said pass side looked pristine. He thought driv side had light dark spots or sludge ?

So I normally only use full syn mobil 1. Any issue changing to mobil 1 5 w 30 ?? I plan to keep 3000 to 3500 mile changes.
So I normally only use full syn mobil 1. Any issue changing to mobil 1 5 w 30 ??

I believe you mean from Mobil 1 to Mobil Super 5000.

And no, there would be no issue. Go for it

Running Mobil Super 5000 or whatever they are calling Mobil's conventional offering (which I have only seen at Target superstores, by the way) for 3500 miles would be still as some have said a waste but still not too bad, nothing wrong with changing your oil and changing it often. 5000 to 6000 miles you can.. 7000-12000 miles is reserved for the more experienced oil connoisseurs, who no doubt have precautions in place for such advanced activities, lol. Sarcasm.
 
More interested in opinions on changing to mobil 1... which i have gallons of paid for. To buy 5 w 30 dino oil i am buying oil and leaving 5 w 30 in my garage w no use.
That is not exactly what you said in your first post?
So I normally only use full syn mobil 1.
More interested in opinions on changing to mobil 1...

Which is it?

You can use the Mobil 1 you have, as well. No issues .
 
More interested in opinions on changing to mobil 1... which i have gallons of paid for. To buy 5 w 30 dino oil i am buying oil and leaving 5 w 30 in my garage w no use.
No good reason not to use it. Keeping the shorter oil changes for a little while should prevent any sludge removal from plugging the filter up (especially in case any was dislodged while the valve covers were off) but later on you can start to increase it. I've switched many oil high mileage vehicles to synthetic including an 89 Caprice with 300k miles, 86 Caprice, 87 Caprice, 87 Cutlass, 05 Silverado at 190k, etc. No issues.
 
We purchased our 2007 FJ Cruiser with 218k on the dial and we currently have a semi-synthetic in it..... Rotella T5, 10w30. As everyone knows, this is a very robust oil and the FJ seems to love it. I am of the mindset that I want thicker, more robust oils with the high miles, at the least, high mileage oils.

If you must have Mobil 1.... you might give their line of "over 75k" oils a try.



.........
 
It won't hurt anything, BUT, if there's a compromised seal somewhere that's currently being held shut by a bit of sludge, switching to synthetic (assuming it hasn't had synthetic all this time) could clear the sludge away and speed up the leak to where it actually drips on the driveway. At 223K, you're bound to have a weeping front or rear main seal. Switching it to a full syn could accelerate the need to get it replaced if you hate oil spots on your concrete.

I highly recommend a high-mileage oil with seal conditioners in it, even if there aren't obvious external signs of seepage. Maxlife comes to mind.
 
It won't hurt anything, BUT, if there's a compromised seal somewhere that's currently being held shut by a bit of sludge, switching to synthetic (assuming it hasn't had synthetic all this time) could clear the sludge away and speed up the leak to where it actually drips on the driveway. At 223K, you're bound to have a weeping front or rear main seal. Switching it to a full syn could accelerate the need to get it replaced if you hate oil spots on your concrete.

I highly recommend a high-mileage oil with seal conditioners in it, even if there aren't obvious external signs of seepage. Maxlife comes to mind.
Personally I've yet to have that happen. My gm truck had minor leaks before I started cleaning out the sludge with synthetic and it still leaks the same amount.
 
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