Change oil before winter storage with very low miles on oil?

The oil is still perfectly good. Just make sure your last seasonal ride is a long one to get the oil fully heated, and to get the fuel stabilizer in your fuel to get fully circulated. Avoid any in storage start ups.
 
Good points. What about fogging the cylinder? I do this with my other single cylinder lawn equipment.

Don't change the oil. The oils will be perfectly fine.
Just make sure you winterize the scooter the right way, which doesn't take much.
1. Plug the exhaust or wrap it up in a plastic bag with some rubber band around.
2. Remove the filter and plug the carburetor, if it has any or plug the inlet of the filter box.
3. Pour a bit of oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, put the plug back and kick it a couple of times with the spark plug wire disconnected.
4. If you have chance during the winter, start up the bike once a month and let it run for a 5-10 minutes.



 
Oils have acid buffer additives. TBN measures as much. You have no reason to worry about "acidic" oil damaging the engine.

As for fogging the cylinder, I wouldn't bother. Just do as suggested, and take the bike for a nice ride, to fully warm up the oil, before parking. Add fuel stabilizer, and cover it. I wouldn't bother to bag the exhaust, unless small rodents have access to your garage (heavens forbid).
 
Does anyone have any real proof that anything will happen if you don't change the oil before storage, Or is it all hearsay?. Should you really change the oil you changed in the fall, in the spring when you start using your bike? Do your tires really go bad if not lifted off the ground ?. If you leave your battery on a tender all winter, is there any proof that it will ruin your battery?. I'm looking for real hard proof, not what someone told you about what happened to their friend or cousin. I'm trying to get the facts straight here.,,,
 
Don't change the oil. The oils will be perfectly fine.
Just make sure you winterize the scooter the right way, which doesn't take much.
1. Plug the exhaust or wrap it up in a plastic bag with some rubber band around.
2. Remove the filter and plug the carburetor, if it has any or plug the inlet of the filter box.
3. Pour a bit of oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, put the plug back and kick it a couple of times with the spark plug wire disconnected.
4. If you have chance during the winter, start up the bike once a month and let it run for a 5-10 minutes.
DO NOT DO THIS!!!

Leave the bike alone after preparing it for storage. Starting the bike for 5-10 minutes is not enough time for everything to come up to temperature to burn off any moisture that is created. That moisture will sit in the exhaust and rust it from the inside. If you are going to start the bike, ride it for 20-30 minutes to get it hot. Also, the first time you start it, you'll just burn off the protective oil you put into the cylinders in "step 3" above.

Either prepare the bike for storage and store it, or just keep riding it.
 
I would not change the oil before storage. Life is too short. Money and time, why bother? I can't believe it will make any difference.

I'll catch some flak for this...
I think/believe/feel that for best storage, new oil needs to have a few miles on it to take the "edge" off of it. I don't know where I learned this, but that's is what's in my head.
A few miles on new oil to take the edge off? No. There is no edge. There is new oil that will never perform better than when it is fresh.
 
Yes, change the oil. Oil becomes contaminated the minute you throw in into an engine. Can become acidic. CHANGE IT / STORE IT
Oil becomes acidic once the TBN reaches zero. Before that it is not acidic.

The way that happens is from mixed sulfur oxides, heat from combustion and water. If the engine is not operating then this doesn't happen.
 
Yes, change the oil. Oil becomes contaminated the minute you throw in into an engine. Can become acidic. CHANGE IT / STORE IT

Pro tip - you don't need to change the oil to neutralize the acid, just dump 2 bottles of Pepto Bismol in the sump, it will do all the work.
All the professional mechanics like Scotty Kilmer do it this way.
 
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