Change oil after extended engine “open” time?

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I just got my car up and running after a timing chain replacement and timing cover reseal - which involved almost a week of the engine being “open”. Since the internals were exposed to open air and whatever debris was out there, I drained the oil before doing any major cleaning.

Before buttoning things back up, I used assembly lube on the cam journals and poured almost a quart of PYB 30W on the cams. Used a medium mesh paint strainer to “filter” the old oil. Should I do a post-op oil change and run a FU or similar?
 
I agree with oldhp run it 500 and change the oil and filter. Not sure what kind of car you have but it really makes it nice if people would post the year and make and size of engine and the miles. People who have the same car are more likely to chime in with helpful information. I hope it runs perfect for you! :)
 
After having the valve cover(s) or timing cover off I change the oil and filter after an hour or two of run time. I try to do the repair or valve adjustment when an oil change is due anyway.
 
I'd run a few hundred miles if the engine doesn't grenade then filter and oil change it would be.
 
I seal up an open engine when there is a delay putting it back together and if rebuilding an engine once cleaned up for assembly I bag the engine and clean parts when waiting to be worked on . I guess I received different training.
 
I seal up an open engine when there is a delay putting it back together and if rebuilding an engine once cleaned up for assembly I bag the engine and clean parts when waiting to be worked on . I guess I received different training.
My fathers speed shop back in the 70s had a dust proof room similar to a spray booth where all engine builds & rebuilds took place.
 
Since there are no pictures or description of the cleanliness under which your engine was "open," I cannot answer your question. What I CAN tell you is that I have changed UIM and LIM gaskets on several GM 3800s. I was meticulous before tear down, went to car wash and used simple green and LOW pressure rinse, then drove ~5 miles home (garage) and used compressed air and a shop vacuum PRIOR to opening the engine. While the engine was open, I used a single edge razor AND a shop vacuum to clean the gasket surfaces, followed by clean white rags with acetone on them. I did my work and closed the engine back up WITHOUT an oil change; followed by UOA ~ a week later. UOA from the lab did not show elevated silicon or anything noteworthy. My two cents. Do what lets you sleep at night.
 
The car is a 2009 Prius. The work I done was replacing the timing chain/rails/tensioner and VC gasket. While a red scotchbrite by hand was involved to dress some gouged aluminum by hand(a big no-no, but I did notice some damage from a carbide scraper) - no power tools were used. A mix of carbide scraper and Delrin razor blades worked to get the old RTV off. I used a lot of brake cleaner until I felt no grit/grime/dirt on the sealing surfaces and the timing cavity. I used paper towels and masking tape to tape off and tampon off the oil pump passages(the oil pump is integrated into the timing cover) and crankcase opening. The timing cover got a bath of hot water and Dawn avoiding the oil pump and passages, followed by brake cleaner. I used 5 cans of the stuff on this project.

It wasn’t a dusty day, I didn’t see gross junk on the cams but decided to give them a bath in PYB while the RTV was curing.
 
The car is a 2009 Prius. The work I done was replacing the timing chain/rails/tensioner and VC gasket. While a red scotchbrite by hand was involved to dress some gouged aluminum by hand(a big no-no, but I did notice some damage from a carbide scraper) - no power tools were used. A mix of carbide scraper and Delrin razor blades worked to get the old RTV off. I used a lot of brake cleaner until I felt no grit/grime/dirt on the sealing surfaces and the timing cavity. I used paper towels and masking tape to tape off and tampon off the oil pump passages(the oil pump is integrated into the timing cover) and crankcase opening. The timing cover got a bath of hot water and Dawn avoiding the oil pump and passages, followed by brake cleaner. I used 5 cans of the stuff on this project.

It wasn’t a dusty day, I didn’t see gross junk on the cams but decided to give them a bath in PYB while the RTV was curing.
I would ask if the vehicle was enclosed in a garage or outside somewhere.... If it were me, I would take a sample and send off for UOA, so that you learn, but you are not answerable to me. Do what you feel best.
 
I decided to do a OCI. In went 4 quarts of Chevron Havoline Lifelong and a Fram TG4386 I had on hand.
 
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