Here, 20 year olds can get historic tags so no safety or emissions inspections.Ya. Cali is 39 yrs old.
NJ is 25 yrs old for a "historic" auto.
Here, 20 year olds can get historic tags so no safety or emissions inspections.Ya. Cali is 39 yrs old.
NJ is 25 yrs old for a "historic" auto.
That's true. and that's why i was saying a 10w-40 typically won't be found in such a stout formulation as with the 0/5w's. 10w-40's typically fall lower on the averages of formulation additives and finding a lower saps 40 weight is easier when looking at 10w's since they're the obsolete grade and don't carry strict approvals which usually also carry more stout formulations. I do know of the esp oils but they're more expensive and harder to find especially in the thicker grades.The SAPS limits as enforced by the API (which are really just Phos/Zinc limits) don't apply to xW-40's, that's why M1 FS 0w-40 can be SN.
With Euro-geared lubes, which actually do have formal tiers for SAPS (Low/Mid/Full) Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 (also: Corvette) is low SAPS (hence the ESP designation).
If we are looking at non-Euro lubes, the SRT 0w-40 is your typical SN/SP Energy Conserving additive package in a 0w-40 format.
M1 High Mileage 10w-40 has 800ppm of Phosphorus, 900ppm of Zinc, which is higher than most of the Mobil 0w-xx oils. M1 FS 0w-40 has 1000ppm, 1100ppm while the low SAPS ESP oil is 900/990. The ESP (low SAPS) 0w-20 is 880/950 while EP and AP 0w-20 are 650/750.
10w-40's don't have any real formal approvals, so the bar isn't all that high for performance in service, quite unlike the case for the Euro 0w-40's, which have to meet extremely demanding performance requirements from the myriad of OEM's the product carries the approvals for.
The ESP oils are becoming more and more common thoughThat's true. and that's why i was saying a 10w-40 typically won't be found in such a stout formulation as with the 0/5w's. 10w-40's typically fall lower on the averages of formulation additives and finding a lower saps 40 weight is easier when looking at 10w's since they're the obsolete grade and don't carry strict approvals which usually also carry more stout formulations. I do know of the esp oils but they're more expensive and harder to find especially in the thicker grades.
The blender just isn't inclined to go out of their way to invest more to scrape the formulation limits on a 10w-40 since they'd rather do that on a euro 0/5w-40. The modern tests require that level of cold flow anyway and would be hard or impossible to meet with a 10w-40. That's why i don't think 10w-40 rated bmw ll-01 oils are a thing yet they can carry the acea a3/b4 rating anyway which is good enough for me.
Valvoline hm 10w-40 is 850 zn and 770 phos so it's lower on the scale but still suitable for protecting considering that old ford was spec'd to run a 30 grade and M1 0w-40 fs is kind of overkill for it. No pun intended.
They either use a lift or one of these:You mean they put every car up on a lift to check?
Here, 20 year olds can get historic tags so no safety or emissions inspections.
How do they check that? Most of the hoopties that have historic tags probably don't even have working odometers.Here, the # of miles you can drive / year is limited for such tags.
How do you make that connection?You can kill a cat while burning oil at a fairly low rate-the ‘18 Transit 250 3.7 company van that I turned in recently burned a quart every 3500-4000 (from brand new), always getting 5W20 synthetic blend, and it lost a cat at 110K.
So you don’t want any actual technical advice?And I gather some are saying the Mobil 1 0w40 Euro is "too good" of an oil for the Explorer? I