Castrol GTX?

Messages
9,461
Location
Not Seattle, but close.
I've been using Castrol GTX 10W-30 in my Jeep for 6 years, changing at 3000 miles. I used to be uninformed, and used Fram filters, but for the past couple of years, it's been Purolator or Napa Gold. At 86K miles everything runs fine, no oil consumption at all. I've seen a few posts saying Castrol is bad for varnish, hasn't got a good pour point, etc. So I'm wondering, exactly what do you guys think/know about it? I guess since it's worked so far, I might as well keep it up, unless there's some reason not too, huh? The engine seems in perfect shape, lived in NC for 3 years, then in WA state. Any input? Thanks
 
Messages
453
Location
Galveston, TX
quote:
Originally posted by MarkC: I've been using Castrol GTX 10W-30 in my Jeep for 6 years, changing at 3000 miles. At 86K miles everything runs fine, no oil consumption at all. I've seen a few posts saying Castrol is bad for varnish, hasn't got a good pour point, etc. So I'm wondering, exactly what do you guys think/know about it? I guess since it's worked so far, I might as well keep it up, unless there's some reason not too, huh? The engine seems in perfect shape, lived in NC for 3 years, then in WA state. Any input? Thanks
Of all the Oils in the World, Castrol is the cleanest operating oil and it leaves ___no____ varnish or deposits in your engine. Believe me!!!! I have used Castrol for 25 years, and I have never had to have the cylinder heads off any of my 8 cars. In short, I never needed service on my engines. Long live the King!!!!!! Long live Castrol!!!!!!
 
Messages
5,358
Location
Gone
quote:
Originally posted by Flimflam:
quote:
Originally posted by MarkC: I've been using Castrol GTX 10W-30 in my Jeep for 6 years, changing at 3000 miles. At 86K miles everything runs fine, no oil consumption at all. I've seen a few posts saying Castrol is bad for varnish, hasn't got a good pour point, etc. So I'm wondering, exactly what do you guys think/know about it? I guess since it's worked so far, I might as well keep it up, unless there's some reason not too, huh? The engine seems in perfect shape, lived in NC for 3 years, then in WA state. Any input? Thanks
Of all the Oils in the World, Castrol is the cleanest operating oil and it leaves ___no____ varnish or deposits in your engine. Believe me!!!! I have used Castrol for 25 years, and I have never had to have the cylinder heads off any of my 8 cars. In short, I never needed service on my engines. Long live the King!!!!!! Long live Castrol!!!!!!

Flimflam, I used to be sold (no pun intended) on Castrol and then I got away from it and didn't go back because bad news seemed to be builing (gum, varnish, shearing [despite the commercials] and now the "synthetic controversy"). I would really like to know on what you base your claims about Castrol. I am not challenging you; I am in fact, looking for "A Reason to Believe"....again (title courtesy of Rod Stewart).
 
Messages
453
Location
Galveston, TX
Flimflam, I used to be sold (no pun intended) on Castrol and then I got away from it and didn't go back because bad news seemed to be builing (gum, varnish, shearing [despite the commercials] and now the "synthetic controversy"). I would really like to know on what you base your claims about Castrol. I am not challenging you; I am in fact, looking for "A Reason to Believe"....again (title courtesy of Rod Stewart). [/QB][/QUOTE] I just never had to have engine service on any car I used Castrol on. And that means all my cars. Some of the cars were tortured really bad. Like being run at freeway speeds when a radiator hose blew. And being run until all the engine oil boiled off, or vaporized. Sure, some people are mad at Castrol for the "Synthetic Controversy." But that should not affect Castrol Moneral Oils. [I can't imagine gum, shearing, varnish in any car using Castrol. Could it be that you have a "Sludge Monster" type engine? In that case, you would have gum, shearing, varnish, etc no matter what oil you use.]
 
Messages
948
Location
st. Louis
Hi, my name is mormit. I'm a former Castrol user. I used Castrol on several cars for over 12 years. Never had an engine fail or require repair from a lubricant related problem and I do think that Castrol GTX is good for a dino. In that I mean that 3000mi changes with GTX should get any engine to the 200,000mi mark with the exception maybe of turbos and sludge-prone engines. Shortcomings I noted with Castrol are: 1)It sheers out of grade within the 3000mi interval 2)It leaves varnish on the visible interior surfaces (cam, head, valve cover, even the dip stick). I don't think this is Castrol only but any dino group I or II oil.
 
Messages
5,358
Location
Gone
Mormit, You bring up an excellent point, in fact one of the things that keeps me away from most Castrol oil products: shearing (Mormit, I'm trusting you that you have seen UOAS or other empirical data that supports this...and you are not the first source of this info...I've heard it before). Anyone recall what they used to push, push, push in their advertising: "Stays in Grade." Now, if you can't do the very thing you "make yourself famous" for.... PS This is not a "bash Castrol" thing; in fact I am very excited about the German import, but you (whichever product producer you are) obviously don't build confidence in current or former customers when you can't do the thing you promote as your strong point. [ July 18, 2003, 07:34 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
Messages
453
Location
Galveston, TX
quote:
Originally posted by pscholte: Mormit, You bring up an excellent point, in fact one of the things that keeps me away from most Castrol oil products: shearing (Mormit, I'm trusting you that you have seen UOAS or other empirical data that supports this...and you are not the first source of this info...I've heard it before). Anyone recall what they used to push, push, push in their advertising: "Stays in Grade." Now, if you can't do the very thing you "make yourself famous" for.... PS This is not a "bash Castrol" thing; in fact I am very excited about the German import, but you (whichever product producer you are) obviously don't build confidence in current or former customers when you can't do the thing you promote as your strong point.
Pscholte, I forgot to add, as a teenager(in my late teens), I raced series production 4-cylinder air-cooled motorcycles. Again, only 1 brand of oil was put in my rides....Castrol. Those engines were run up to 12,500 rpm, occasionally 13,000 rpm. They were run very hot. Sometimes, hot enough to lose oil pressure. Even under those conditions, no sludge or varnish was observed when the engines were torn down. And I do not think the oil sheared down, too. If it sheared, we'd have had breakdowns. And we never had any breakdowns.
 
Messages
948
Location
st. Louis
I ran a few UOA's three years ago that indicated Castrol 10W-30 and 10W-40 dropping out of grade within 3000mi on my 93 Jeep and 85 Volvo wagon. The oil pressure gauge on the Jeep also showed a consistent drop in idle and running oil pressure within 1000mi after each oil change. I'm not trashing Castrol GTX. It is one of the best dino oils out there, is well worth the price, and is sufficient for most daily driver applications. Cars that use turbos, are driven hard, sludgers, and longer drain intervals require oils such as M1, Schaeffer's, Amsoil, etc. That said, I believe that the daily driver getting Castrol or Penzoil avery 3K miles will benefit from a quality cleaning with AutoRx or Neutra every 50,000mi. My 240 wagon got to 229,000mi on Castrol GTX but had varnish and solid carbon build-up on the head. Schaeffer's has been keeping the engine much cleaner with a longer drain and it's running better than ever. Of course the performance cam I dropped in at 242,000mi might be making a difference. Tee-hee [Wink]
 
Messages
5,069
Location
Saratoga, NY
First of all, lubrication-related failures are rare ... in cars which are reasonably maintained. So, that alone is not "proof" that Castrol is an exceptional brand. I used to use Castrol GTX in my 1986 Escort GT ... but I got rid of the car before it had too many miles on it. Can't comment on whether or not the motor was clean after many years, etc ... I used the Syntec in my 1990 Acura and 1995 Civic Coupe. I was initially impressed with the way this stuff tended to stay very, very clean but in the Civic, I switched to Mobil 1 and it became dirty quite quickly ... suggesting that M1 was cleaning up something the Syntec left behind. The car did have a significant amount of varnish on parts visible through the filler cap, but nothing too distressing ... especially with 100,000+ miles on the odo. So, I have a few beefs with Castrol, but nothing too personal: 1) The synthetic mess they started. 2) Their base oils at last check were Group II (good) but not as good as some ... Pennzoil and probably Chevron. So, among dinos, I would put a few ahead of it. 3) The shearing. I noticed this (and complained to Patman about it. I asked if he ever saw a sample which made it to 3,000 miles without shearing. he found a couple but the stuff seems shear happy nonetheless. I'm guessing that they WANT the oil to shear so they can claim/cite better fuel economy numbers. I don't like this approach. The oil should stay in grade throughout reasonable intervals. If manufacturers or others want to spec out thinner oils, that should be handled more openly/honestly. So, I don't think it's a bad oil, but it's not one of my favorite brands. [I dont know] --- Bror Jace
 
Messages
453
Location
Galveston, TX
quote:
Originally posted by mormit: I ran a few UOA's three years ago that indicated Castrol 10W-30 and 10W-40 dropping out of grade within 3000mi on my 93 Jeep and 85 Volvo wagon. The oil pressure gauge on the Jeep also showed a consistent drop in idle and running oil pressure within 1000mi after each oil change.
I personally cannot believe that it shears down enough to affect its lube qualities within 3000 miles; after all, it does show good wear numbers, and something that shears down much would not have good wear numbers. But even if it is not fit to go 3000 miles, so what? I'd still use Castrol GTX even if I had to change it every 1500 miles. At $6.95 approx per 5-quart container, it is a far better deal than most synthetic oils out there.
 

MHC

Messages
25
Location
FLa
I have to agree with flimflam. I have been using Castrol for 20 years or more in my cars and motorcycles with no problems and never had a sludge or varnish problem what so ever.
 
Messages
5,358
Location
Gone
MHC, [Welcome!] ...not trying to insult your intelligence or integrity, but have you seen your engines torn down or are you basing your statement on less invasive evidence. If so, I understand, as I have stated opinions based on more "surface " observations myself.
 

MHC

Messages
25
Location
FLa
pscholte-not to insult your intelligence. I would not have made that statement if I had not. Mark
 
Messages
5,069
Location
Saratoga, NY
"I personally cannot believe that it shears down enough to affect its lube qualities within 3000 miles; after all, it does show good wear numbers, and something that shears down much would not have good wear numbers." I'm not so sure of that. We've seen good results from some 5W20s on this site. A good barrier anti-wear package seems to be key to good numbers from a thin oil. [I dont know] "But even if it is not fit to go 3000 miles, so what? I'd still use Castrol GTX even if I had to change it every 1500 miles. At $6.95 approx per 5-quart container, it is a far better deal than most synthetic oils out there." But that's a false choice because there are other (and in my opinion, better) conventional oils available. If any of those showed the same degree of shearing, I'd drop them off my preferred list as well. --- Bror Jace
 
Messages
577
Location
Quebec Canada
Used to use house brand oil "motomaster" red can following the oil life monitor , without problem. Decided to change for Castrol GTX 5 w 30 in my van,because of the attractive price, great availability and so for 2 oil change, noticed varnish on dipstick after first oil change with Castrol at 6500km, not a lot but I did not like that brownish stuff. I also noticed some black "suit" or powderat the bottom of the can when doing my second change. They were cooked, no more for me. I've cleaned the dipstick, and I use now Pétro-Canada Supreme 10 w 30 and I will use 5 w 30 in 3 months ! I'll have an UOA, the petro can number are pretty good on paper, hoping they will also be good in the pan.
 
Messages
1,203
Location
Oregon
I think Castrol will work. I used it for the 1st 5 years 60,000 of my 91 Toyota truck. It did not blow up or anything real bad. I changed it every 3000 to 3500 miles. What stoped me from using it was after I had a look under a valve cover in the V6. [Eek!] Lets just say there was more sludge than I was expecting. Than the deal with Castrol around 1997 giving us $4.50 a qt. Group III "synthetic" oil. Mobil vs Castrol. That move let me know Castrol was not for me.
 
Top