Castrol GTX 20W-50 and Havoline 20W-50 Debate

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A friend of mine has a 55 Chevy with a 396 Big Block, Tunnel Ram with dual four barrels. He wants to weekend race and occasionally take it around town for a spin once in a while. He is a Castrol fan and I'm a Havoline fan. Which brand is better overall in these scenarios? My friend will not budge from a 20w-50 motor oil no matter what and will not consider a synthetic oil at all.

So again, which one is the better oil overall?
 
Being a 25-year long time Castrol fan, I would have to give my vote to the White bottles.

But realistically, if changed often, I can't see much difference between the 2 oils.
 
Actually on paper, Havoline's numbers look better than the Castrol. Havoline's Flash is 496 degrees compared to Castrol's Flash of 440 degrees. Havoline's pour number is -20 degrees while Castrol is -6 degrees indicating that the Havoline may flow a little better in not so warm temperatures. I still would not use them in sub freezing climates. Can you just go by these numbers? No, but they can be a good indicator of the a quality oil. Both are quality oils. If I had to pick a 20w50, I would chose the Havoline. Just my two cents worth.
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James408:
quote:

Havoline's Flash is 496 degrees compared to Castrol's Flash of 440 degrees.

Although I like Havoline, and have a stash to prove it, there has been some talk about Havoline's real flashpoint versus the published spec. UOAs never come near to the published spec. I would not use Havoline's published flashpoint as a serious criteria for selecting Havoline, one way or the other.
 
I would have to say castrol. That was all I used in my first two cars(200k each) and never had a problem.
 
I know a couple people that don't like synthetics either. One owns a machine shop and the other is a mechanic at his own shop. They have both told me they see know benefits using synthetics.
 
My friend dislikes synthetics because he is old school and is stubborn to change. I feel the price sets him off also. He brought up the story that synthetic will blow past the engines seals. But, all he is running on is hearsay and rumors.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bighead:
Oh, ok. I gotcha. Hey, to each his own. All I know is, if I were driving the $h*t out a car, I'd be running some sort of synthetic. Can't imagine the shearing goin inside a racing engine with dino...
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If synthetic oil is so much better,why arn't the HT/HS numbers higher for a syn vs dino?
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Like Bob Winters used to say: Add pack first.
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I used to run Castrol GTX 20w-50 in a 250CC air cooled twin cylinder Honda Rebel when I was a teenager in the late 80s (I'm sure the formulation has change quite a bit). I romped on the motorcycle like no tommorow and did 2k OCIs at the time using a little MMO in the gas. At one point my brother overfilled the crankcase and we had to replace the oil pan. Inside looked clean with very little varnish at around 37k and this was riding for a few years in Florida heat on the highway and stop n' go traffic.

I've also used Havoline in a couple of vehicles and never had a problem, but that was under tame conditions compared to how I used the motorcycle.
 
I used Castrol GTX 20W-50 in a 72 VW Super Beetle I bought new. I changed it every 3,000 miles. At 101,000 miles a valve stem broke. The mechanic who rebuilt that engine was also a friend of mine. I asked him to mic out wear points because I wanted to know how much it had worn during that 101,000 miles. Later he told me the engine throughout was within specifications of the car when it was new.

When I got the car back from him I asked how he wanted me to break it in. He wouldn't give me any information on wear in. I asked him if it was his practice to rebuild engines and to refrain from telling the customer how to break it in. He told me he always gave such instructions to all his customers, except for me. He told me that whatever I had done with that car when I bought it, "...just do the same thing again". I drove that car another 200,000 miles, still using GTX 20W-50. Compression checks showed all four cylinders remained up to spec throughout that time.

After all that use for 21 years I sold it for 80% of what the car cost me new.

Havoline 20W-50 (I don't remember seeing it) might would have done me just as well, but the Castrol GTX 20W-50 certainly didn't me in any way.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bypassfilter:

quote:

Originally posted by bighead:
Oh, ok. I gotcha. Hey, to each his own. All I know is, if I were driving the $h*t out a car, I'd be running some sort of synthetic. Can't imagine the shearing goin inside a racing engine with dino...
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If synthetic oil is so much better,why arn't the HT/HS numbers higher for a syn vs dino?
dunno.gif

Like Bob Winters used to say: Add pack first.
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What I always like to add to these discussions involving synthetic oils is my long held opinion: synthetics are primarily useful if you want to go to long{1 year or 10,000+ mile} oil change intervals. For 3,000 to 5,000 OCI's, dino will serve most folks just fine. An exception would be a turbocharged engine.

Racing engines normally have their oil changed after every race.
 
Ok, if it's changed after every race, I see your point. I guess I was going on the a$$-umption that it was a semi daily driver as well...
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[EDIT] I just reread the original post...looks like it IS going to be an occasional daily driver....
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